Bed in brakes
- Thread starter Polar
- Start date
Yes.
Mcharza
E*POWAH BOSS
Yes, because when you cleaned the rotor, you also removed the brake pad material.
And in order for the brakes to work as designed, the bed in has to transfer material from the pads to the rotor.
And in order for the brakes to work as designed, the bed in has to transfer material from the pads to the rotor.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks that's what I thought since as you said the pad material will disappear whic is part of the bed in proses
I always clean the Rotors after wash and I never bed in after this. I don't notice any differences and don't believe the story about pad material on Rotors. Also for ex. Magura ist nothing writing about this:
https://magura.com/en/EUR/the-bedding-in-procedure-of-brake-pads
https://magura.com/en/EUR/the-bedding-in-procedure-of-brake-pads
- Thread starter
- #6
In the winter I clean rotors and wash the bike often since I have to go through town with lots of salt to get to the forest and everyone I read how important it is to bed in the brakes except on Galfer website they say their pads doesn't need to and that's the pads I prefer.
But on the other hand the bed in proses is to get material on the rotor as far as I understand and it's lots of articles saying what can go wrong with the pads if they are not bed in like less brake power etc so it's a bit confusing.
Brake pad comparison - Galfer Bike
Features and advantages of the new compounds GALFER BIKE: – Organic semi-metal compound (non asbestos)– Absence of noise.– Better feeling, progressiveness and braking power.– Minimization of vibration to the wheel.– Less wear on the brake discs.– Resistance to high temperatures.– Increased...
galfer.eu
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John_likes_bikes
New Member
Depends on how and how much you cleaned them. The more you clean the more they need to be bed in. Soap and water, no. Steal wool/sand paper and disk cleaner, yes.
If during cleaning the brake pad material deposited on the rotor is not removed then all good. If it is removed then need to go through the bedding in process again.
Paulquattro
E*POWAH Elite
A lot of a bed in process is to shape the lining to the disc more than leaving material behind 
- Thread starter
- #11
So then the process is about shaping the lining, leaving material but is that all or are there also several factors and what is the absolute most important regarding bed in?A lot of a bed in process is to shape the lining to the disc more than leaving material behind
Don't misinform, bedding is leaving pad material on the brake, sure if you poorly installed your caliper and pad if they are not aligned, the shape will need to adapt more but this is somehow unlikely with proper installation, not saying it is not of a factor, it is but way less than the material bedding.
To leave the material on the brake, random braking is not enough, you need to heat up the disk and the pad to do so. Bed the disk brake on a controller manner not by riding is the best solution.
Tons of docs out there that explain better than I could how to bed properly.
To leave the material on the brake, random braking is not enough, you need to heat up the disk and the pad to do so. Bed the disk brake on a controller manner not by riding is the best solution.
Tons of docs out there that explain better than I could how to bed properly.
There’s a number of factors to consider for proper braking especially at the calliper. Rotor installation, calliper alignment, brake pad material, contamination, excessive heat etc.
For 6 bolt rotors; preload the rotation before torquing in an alternate pattern to 4nm with a small amount of blue loc-tight on the bolt threads only.
The slots/holes or shape of a rotor serves a couple of purposes; shavings the pads for initial alignment, cooling and reducing weight. The surface of the rotor will have microscopic holes or trenches where some brake pad material will settle. Don’t introduce a new type of material or new type of brand to your rotor surface without thoroughly cleaning the surface of the rotor. If you need to sand the surface, use 600grit emery cloth, then clean thoroughly.
I only get a momentary howl when I use this method. (Probably from water until it quickly evaporates). Road contamination can happen. (Oils). Your pads are probably ruined …unless you know how to
fire them. I don’t do this. I just change the pads and clean everything with ISO alcohol or certain types of brake cleaners.
Proper break-in is important for new pads or rotors. Don’t skip this step.
I use a mid-preformance type of Magura brake pad. I don’t mix pad compound or manufacturer type. There may be other methods out there …but these methods work for me.
For 6 bolt rotors; preload the rotation before torquing in an alternate pattern to 4nm with a small amount of blue loc-tight on the bolt threads only.
The slots/holes or shape of a rotor serves a couple of purposes; shavings the pads for initial alignment, cooling and reducing weight. The surface of the rotor will have microscopic holes or trenches where some brake pad material will settle. Don’t introduce a new type of material or new type of brand to your rotor surface without thoroughly cleaning the surface of the rotor. If you need to sand the surface, use 600grit emery cloth, then clean thoroughly.
I only get a momentary howl when I use this method. (Probably from water until it quickly evaporates). Road contamination can happen. (Oils). Your pads are probably ruined …unless you know how to
fire them. I don’t do this. I just change the pads and clean everything with ISO alcohol or certain types of brake cleaners. Proper break-in is important for new pads or rotors. Don’t skip this step.
I use a mid-preformance type of Magura brake pad. I don’t mix pad compound or manufacturer type. There may be other methods out there …but these methods work for me.
Paulquattro
E*POWAH Elite
Dont tell me im misinforming
Brake pads and rotor surfaces are not true to each other by a long way (even when new)
Its got bugger all to do with alignment of calipers its to due too surface imperfections in both pad and rotors especially when pads are new and rotors are not
Im not saying material transfer isnt a thing it is but mating the two surfaces together is more important and if not done correctly can cause hot spots in the pads which causes hard spots and squealing amongst other things
And how do you think your going to get material left evenly on the disc if the pad and disc surfaces are not true to each other.
What is it you do for a living ?
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I know the general guidelines but also work from my own experience.
Certainly when using new pads a full bedding in process is needed not least because the pad surface will have manufacture residue on it. This is when the whole process takes longer and is essential. Sintered pads are likely to take longer than others simply because the pad material is harder.
My process is just to ride around on the lane outside my house at a bout 10mph then braking ( only I brake at a time) fairly hard but only enough to slow me to walking pace...then repeat about 10 times per brake.
I would add that the above assumes the pads/discs have not been ridden ( much) before that is done. If the bike has been ridden ( e.g. after being build in a LBS and maybe ridden to set up or demo without first bedding in the brakes before purchase), you are best advised to thoroughly clean both rotors and pads with wet and dry if necessary before attempting to bed them in...........lots of black on pads and rotors is the giveaway if that has happened.
Then to experience...................I regularly clean my discs with IPA and occasionally do the clean caliper pistons and pads routine using IPA and a wipe over of the pads with wet/dry plus IPA clean. I have never found it necessary to repeat the full bedding in process again however after doing that. It merely takes 2 or 3 pulls on the brakes which I know to do at the beginning of a ride to get full power again. ( sintered pads/ SRAM RSC brakes)
Certainly when using new pads a full bedding in process is needed not least because the pad surface will have manufacture residue on it. This is when the whole process takes longer and is essential. Sintered pads are likely to take longer than others simply because the pad material is harder.
My process is just to ride around on the lane outside my house at a bout 10mph then braking ( only I brake at a time) fairly hard but only enough to slow me to walking pace...then repeat about 10 times per brake.
I would add that the above assumes the pads/discs have not been ridden ( much) before that is done. If the bike has been ridden ( e.g. after being build in a LBS and maybe ridden to set up or demo without first bedding in the brakes before purchase), you are best advised to thoroughly clean both rotors and pads with wet and dry if necessary before attempting to bed them in...........lots of black on pads and rotors is the giveaway if that has happened.
Then to experience...................I regularly clean my discs with IPA and occasionally do the clean caliper pistons and pads routine using IPA and a wipe over of the pads with wet/dry plus IPA clean. I have never found it necessary to repeat the full bedding in process again however after doing that. It merely takes 2 or 3 pulls on the brakes which I know to do at the beginning of a ride to get full power again. ( sintered pads/ SRAM RSC brakes)
That’s a lot of IPA…never knew it could be used for cleaning.
I have never bedded in my pads after the initial install. Bedding in when you have old rotors is really just burning off the high spots and getting the profile of the pads to match the rotor. With new pads and new rotors you impart some of the pad material to the disk which helps with better pad bite.
I have never noticed any change in braking performance after simply washing my bike. Maybe if you scrubbed the rotor with steel wool or a wire wheel you might remove the pad material from the rotor, but who does that?
Interesting things here. I`m riding Shimano brakes with Galfer pads, really easy to bed in when new, few braking and all set. I wash my bikes with muc off, I spray it to the calibers and discs also, don`t do any harm. Never clean my disc`s any otherway except my commuter rear disc I have had to do it two times. And in the end it didn`t help because leaking caliber was the problem and I needed to replace it. And that bike gets salt and shit a lot. I swap wheels on my emtb, other ones have Galfer disc`s and other Shimano. No problems with braking after swapping them, just have to adjust bite point little bit because of different thickness. Ps. Bernard Kerr had funny way to get His brakes working when He realized that He hadn`t bed in new brakes bedore He dropped in. He stopped and rubbed some dirt to his discs and bads and all good 
IPA is almost pure alcohol and evaporates very quickly leaving no residue. Much more efficient than brake cleaner and brilliant for thoroughly cleaning bike parts like dt swiss ratchet freehub components before regreasing and reassembly. For calliper piston cleaning I use a little sprayed into a little pot and dip an ear bud in that to wipe the pistons.That’s a lot of IPA…never knew it could be used for cleaning.
Ah man…another senior’s moment here. I always call it ISO (Isopropyl alcohol).
Don’t want to start an acronym war but I’ll keep calling it ISO.
IPA means something different here.
Ah man…another senior’s moment here. I always call it ISO (Isopropyl alcohol).
Don’t want to start an acronym war but I’ll keep calling it ISO.
IPA means something different here.
Yeah, I'll just continue to type isopropyl alcohol. If there's potential for confusion, I like to avoid it. Being concise is better than being cool. LOL. TMI. BRB. TTYL.
Y…err I mean
Oh....so let on...what does IPA mean in your neck if the woods?? ps ISO here means International Standards Organisation!Ah man…another senior’s moment here. I always call it ISO (Isopropyl alcohol).
Don’t want to start an acronym war but I’ll keep calling it ISO.
IPA means something different here.
ISO is based in Geneva.
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