Anyone removed the Trek Rail Battery Lock?

[R120]

Is it one of these?

AXA Bosch 2 Downtube Battery Lock & Removeable Key - Trek Bikes (GB)

Enhance your cycling experience with AXA Bosch 2 Bike Lock. Shop now!

www.trekbikes.com

 

[Bramble]

This mod replaces all the parts highlighted above. So quite a lot more than just the lock barrel.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

View attachment 72145
This mod replaces all the parts highlighted above. So quite a lot more than just the lock barrel.

Here we can see why the likes of Mondraker and Specialized are able to reduce a lot of frame weight. Mondraker removing everything with an internal battery (without the ability to remove it), Specialized using a single battery bolt to hold it in that probably weighs 20g.

 

[R120]

Yup that a lot of kit

 

[Jimbo Vills]

Here we can see why the likes of Mondraker and Specialized are able to reduce a lot of frame weight. Mondraker removing everything with an internal battery (without the ability to remove it), Specialized using a single battery bolt to hold it in that probably weighs 20g.

The specialised being so simple it’s crazy to think that Bosch must think their locking system is better or required!

 

[Philly G]

Watching this thread with interest. I can see why people want to do away with the lock, no more battery rattle (or risk of it ejecting mid-ride), and the mod also sheds weight that sits high in the frame. For me, though, the convenience of charging the battery off the bike, and being able to reduce the weight for lifting the bike into the back of my wagon, are huge plusses. I carry the key on a clip in my riding pack so I'm never without it.

 

[ghettogolfer]

Can the lock mechanism not be replaced with a dummy cylinder?

For example when you buy a Yakima bike rack it doesn’t come with locks, but a dummy cylinder

If you choose to buy the optional locks you pull this out and put the locking barrel in.

Ramndomnly I am pretty sure the locks used by Yakima are identical to those used by Shimano.

Likely the cylinder makes up a fair bit of that weight.

What make is the lock on the rail?

It's an Abus locking barrel on the trek.
I haven't seen the Yakima lock but can confirm that the key and lock combination on the trek also does double time as part of the battery retention system keeping the battery in place. The current lock and key delete requires a fabricated base plate and uses other bolts in the frame as an alternative means of securing the battery in place.

 

[chamaruco]

@Rob Rides EMTB Here there is your italian “colleague” whit a cnc machine. it Could help?

 

[GrandesRoues]

Modding is always interesting, but for me the ability to remove easily the battery was a decisive factor while chosing the Rail.
I ride with a spare battery in the backpack, and the key attached to a cord to it. I can change the batt trail side in less than 30s, and use it a lot !

To bad they integrated the lock in the new 750Wh batteries. This will mean that you have to carry 2 locks while riding with a spare battery on the new generation Bosh eMTB !

 

[ghettogolfer]

Modding is always interesting, but for me the ability to remove easily the battery was a decisive factor while chosing the Rail.
I ride with a spare battery in the backpack, and the key attached to a cord to it. I can change the batt trail side in less than 30s, and use it a lot !

To bad they integrated the lock in the new 750Wh batteries. This will mean that you have to carry 2 locks while riding with a spare battery on the new generation Bosh eMTB !

If they use Abus as the lock provider, pretty sure you can get a key matched lock?

Carrying a spare battery? What's your average ride distance????

 

[GrandesRoues]

Distance is useless to me, i count elevation. I use a second bat each time i want to do more than 1200m climbing, so that's 3/4 of my rides.
I have done a 2700m ride already (using only Tour), and shall be able to do a bit more than 3000m if fully depleting the 2 batteries.

 

[Dave_h34]

That's brilliant that is. Seems to be a couple of different versions there though, probably best to know which was the final design before making!

 

[Bramble]

One thing I have realised is that with this mod you lose the battery face plate support when you remove the battery handle end cap. Without this the Trek face plate will be loose against the battery at the top end and likely rattle around. You also lose the nice plastic trim around the end of the face plate.

You can get spare ones for £20 so I might get one and hack it up to keep the trim and support.

Plan on doing this mod so will post pics when I get somewhere with it!

 

[Bramble]

If you have the brace fitted then the potential weight saving is just over 400g. Assuming the aluminium bracket will be around 50g.

 

[Bramble]

Ran into a problem. Not sure how the original guy solved it but when you install the battery into the frame you have to insert the bottom end first to hook it onto the plastic latches. Problem is then the new aluminium bracket won't clear the frame when you swing the top end in. In the guide pictures on page 1 he says to put the top end of the battery in first but then you can't locate the bottom end of the battery. Can't see how you can solve this without hacking the bottom end location lugs. Which I don't want to do.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Ran into a problem. Not sure how the original guy solved it but when you install the battery into the frame you have to insert the bottom end first to hook it onto the plastic latches. Problem is then the new aluminium bracket won't clear the frame when you swing the top end in. In the guide pictures on page 1 he says to put the top end of the battery in first but then you can't locate the bottom end of the battery. Can't see how you can solve this without hacking the bottom end location lugs. Which I don't want to do.

Yup, was wondering this too and did discuss it in PM's inconclusively.

Is there enough space between the battery and cover to slide the top end in first with the frame in that gap so you can slide back down to locate ?

Or are the angles just all wrong for that ?

 

[Doomanic]

If your intention is to never remove the battery you could always drop the motor and lower battery mount plate and slide it in from the bottom like the Whyte.

 

[Slapbassmunky]

Why is everyone looking for a solution to a problem that dosen't exist?

Yes the RIB system has it's foibles, but I've lost count of how many times I've removed the battery for a quick top up over a pub lunch with my 6A charger. Lifting the bike into/out of the car, easier with the battery removed? Thieves broke into your shed and nicked everything, well they didn't get your £900 battery. Too cold to charge outside, not if your battery is stored indoors. Is your tin roof shed/garage topping 45deg C in the height of summer, every day. Good job your battery is stored at room temperature indoors.

It's just a key, it gets clipped to the lanyard on my kiox so I don't forget it. It's taken with me either in my pocket, camelback or the centre console of my car. It's become as natural as reaching for my gloves and helmet.

I use a 1/2" wide loop of velcro around the downtube to make sure the battery is secure. The battery popped out once while loading onto my bike rack, I aligned the lock mechanism as per the service bulletin and with the addition of the velcro have had no issues since.

A guy had his battery nicked off his bike at the Malvern classics while it was locked to a fence, although I can't remember for the life of me what bike it was.

 

[pragrick]

OK I have a CNC machine owner interested!

Can we get 20 orders / £30 a pop to get them made?

I would like one, willing to pay upfront if needed,. I am tired of the battery coming out. Please include me. Thank you

 

[Bramble]

"Why is everyone looking for a solution to a problem that dosen't exist? "

I feel having a lock on the battery was a solution by Trek to a problem that doesn't exist. I can remove a £1200 pair of forks off a bike with a pocket multitool. I can release a £1200 wheel with a QR. Why do I need a unique key to take out the battery?

I still want to be able to take the battery off the bike but feel a single Allen bolt would be adequate and more convenient.

 

[Philly G]

I still want to be able to take the battery off the bike but feel a single Allen bolt would be adequate and more convenient.

And easier to steal ?.... getting my multitool out to undo a bolt to remove the battery is way less convenient than unzipping a pocket on the waistband of my hip pack to get my key which is on a stretchy lanyard.... I really don't get all this fuss over a key.

 

[Zimmerframe]

And easier to steal ?.... getting my multitool out to undo a bolt to remove the battery is way less convenient than unzipping a pocket on the waistband of my hip pack to get my key which is on a stretchy lanyard.... I really don't get all this fuss over a key.

There is no key, digital or physical, to stop someone riding off, assisted - with an EMTB smile on their face - with your bike.

Yet there is a key to stop them walking off with just your battery.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Good things about a key :

If you park your bike and leave it for any period of time where there's dodgy people about, it's harder for them to steal your battery.

Though if it's left somewhere where someone can easily steal the battery, it's probably somewhere where someone with bolt crops, angle grinder, sabre saw, hack saw, pocket plasma cutter and less than 2 minutes can have your bike or whatever bits, ends, quarters of your bike that they like.

Bad things about a key :

If you're doing maintenance at home or want to take it out to charge, you have to go find the key.

If you go for a ride, you have to take the key with you. Personally, I try to never take any keys with me when I ride so I can't lose them. Yes, they can be in a pocket, but then I can stab myself with them. Or tear the pocket on a branch, bramble and off they go - never to be seen again.

Ok, you can put one in a bag/sack etc and yes, I have one in a bag - but I don't always take the bag with me. So no key if I need to take the battery out to reset (I've never had to, but that doesn't mean we don't all ride for many eventualities). This becomes even more of a ball ache if you have multiple bikes or lend your bikes to mates.

The lock mechanism is an extra complexity to go wrong. A nice simple bolt like Spesh has does the job perfectly.

The lock mechanism adds 350-480g of unnecessary weight to an item where weight is one of the most important considerations.

 

[DrStupid]

The Giant version forgoes the key, but keeps the weight. Problem solved.

 

[Philly G]

Yet there is a key to stop them walking off with just your battery.

Yes that was what I meant ?

 

[Bramble]

Decided to go with a single bolt which allows me to get the battery in and get the angle to locate the bottom lugs. Used an M5 rivnut to get a good amount of thread engagement. Feels solid as a rock! Just need to get the plastic trim from the battery end cap and jobs done. 400g saving and battery easily removed with a single bolt.

 

[Bomble]

Decided to go with a single bolt which allows me to get the battery in and get the angle to locate the bottom lugs. Used an M5 rivnut to get a good amount of thread engagement. Feels solid as a rock! Just need to get the plastic trim from the battery end cap and jobs done. 400g saving and battery easily removed with a single bolt.

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When will your kit be available to buy?

 

[ghettogolfer]

Decided to go with a single bolt which allows me to get the battery in and get the angle to locate the bottom lugs. Used an M5 rivnut to get a good amount of thread engagement. Feels solid as a rock! Just need to get the plastic trim from the battery end cap and jobs done. 400g saving and battery easily removed with a single bolt.

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This makes a helluva lot of sense. I'm surmising that this bolts up through the deleted key barrel hole on the non drive side of the down tube? Would you mind posting a pic of what that looks like?

 

[Bramble]

This makes a helluva lot of sense. I'm surmising that this bolts up through the deleted key barrel hole on the non drive side of the down tube? Would you mind posting a pic of what that looks like?

Not the large hole where you would put the key but the non drive-side countersunk hole on the underside of the down tube. On the carbon frames there is an aluminium insert with a machined flat on the inside. Gives a nice surface to bolt the clamp up against.

Problem with trying to make them for other people is the bespoke nature of the fitment. Took me two attempts to get the clamp holes spot on to have the battery perfectly aligned in the frame. Will give it some shake down rides and report back how it holds up. If nothing else this little project has introduced me to the world of Rivnuts. Box of 120 assorted sizes for £7!

 

[Bomble]

Any update Bramble?