2021 Husqvarna ebikes

[Chrysaor]

The 2020and older regular non ebike 36 is up to 180mm, the 2021 and newer 36 is 170mm max and 2021 ebike 36 is 160mm. 2021 and newer have a longer left(air) leg than the damper side also. New 36 also has a rounded and kicked forward lower leg brace, and pretty sure the axle quick disconnect is on opposite side

If it can be useful to somebody else, the 36 ebike can go to 170 or 180mm using a fox36 shaft with a 34 air piston. Unofficial and probably voiding the warranty though

 

[MO1]

If it can be useful to somebody else, the 36 ebike can go to 170 or 180mm using a fox36 shaft with a 34 air piston. Unofficial and probably voiding the warranty though

Would love to swap my 150 for 170, is this a definite swap? Have you done it? Thanks!!

 

[Bad Mechanic]

Would love to swap my 150 for 170, is this a definant swap? Have you done it? Thanks!!

I think 170mm would start messing with the geometry quite a bit. Part of the reason it rides so well is the long reach and low bottom bracket, and increased the fork length by 20mm would negative affect both of those.

 

[jbrown15]

I think 170mm would start messing with the geometry quite a bit. Part of the reason it rides so well is the long reach and low bottom bracket, and increased the fork length by 20mm would negative affect both of those.

My buddy has a 170mm Fox 38 on his MC7 and absolutely loves it. His current setup on his MC7 now has a 205x65mm DHX2 shock with a Fox Factory 38.

 

[Chrysaor]

Would love to swap my 150 for 170, is this a definant swap? Have you done it? Thanks!!

do you mean definitive? No it’s not
Check your pm

 

[Bad Mechanic]

This is an interesting video. It's in German so I can't understand it, but someone broke their Extreme Cross frame in half. From the pictures it looks like a bad weld between the head casting and the top and down tubes.

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

This is an interesting video. It's in German so I can't understand it, but someone broke their Extreme Cross frame in half. From the pictures it looks like a bad weld between the head casting and the top and down tubes.

WOW!
I watched the video and he didn't seem to be doing any big drops or jumps, so I wonder what he was doing when the frame broke:/

 

[Swaussie]

He said the bike was 2 weeks old and he had been having fun when he made a mistake over a jump when it broke - but he didnt think his mistake was enough to break the frame - that was just a failure of the materials (assume the weld) - it was replaced without question.

 

[urastus]

WOW!
I watched the video and he didn't seem to be doing any big drops or jumps, so I wonder what he was doing when the frame broke:/

That doesn't mean much - 65% of the damage could have already happened, making it weaker. It does look like a manufacturing fault though. Geez, the sort of thing to give you nightmares - what are the chances of coming out of that without big injuries?

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

That doesn't mean much - 65% of the damage could have already happened, making it weaker. It does look like a manufacturing fault though. Geez, the sort of thing to give you nightmares - what are the chances of coming out of that without big injuries?

Just from watching the video didn't seem like he was doing any big features, but who knows he could have been doing 20' drops and jumps off camera. I have an MC-5 and I am doing 6' drops & jumps with no issues. Also could be his weight, more weight more stress on the frame, in the fine print on the Husky spec sheet 130kg (286lbs) max rider weight.

 

[Bad Mechanic]

Has anyone upgraded the rear brake rotor from 180mm to 203mm? Did it make a noticable difference with your rear brake?

I'm asking because I'll be upgrading the front from the stock 203mm rotor to a 220mm, and thought I might move the 203 to the back.

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

Has anyone upgraded the rear brake rotor from 180mm to 203mm? Did it make a noticable difference with your rear brake?

I'm asking because I'll be upgrading the front from the stock 203mm rotor to a 220mm, and thought I might move the 203 to the back.

I put front & rear 203mm floating rotor on my MC-5 and notice improved brake performance over the stock rotors.

 

[Bad Mechanic]

It turns out the Husky Mountain Cross has a pretty progressive leverage ratio, and even after upgrading to a custom valved DVO Topaz I just wasn't happy with it's performance, and I'm pretty sure it's because the progression of an air shock combined with the progression of the frame makes it entirely too progressive. A large volume air shock might work, but it seems well suited for a coil shock.

I bought a used Marzocchi Bomber CR for a good deal and will install it this weekend and give it a try.

 

[edruid]

How long is the frame warranty on you husqi please?

 

[COMOFLO201]

I bought the Hard Cross 9 about two months ago and love it. I now have about 250 miles on it and all of a sudden the bike is randomly shutting off. Sometimes it will power right back on, sometimes it takes a few attempts. I've took the battery out so it would reboot the system thinking that might fix the problem but, it came right back today. Has anyone heard of this happening or maybe know why it would be happening. Maybe the power switch is going bad? All the wiring is good, no kinks or cuts, battery seems to be seated properly. Thanks!

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

My MC-5 was doing that around 500 miles. I pulled the battery and clean out all the dust, use a electric cleaner
CRC 05018 Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner make sure the battery contacts are clean. Installed Scotch Anti-skid Black Plastic Gripper Pads on to the battery cover, just to eliminate the battery from moving around, also make sure all of the bolts on the battery mounts in the frame are tight, they do come loose, you may want to put some blue loctite on them. Haven't had any battery issues for the last 1200 miles.

 

[COMOFLO201]

My MC-5 was doing that around 500 miles. I pulled the battery and clean out all the dust, use a electric cleaner
CRC 05018 Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner make sure the battery contacts are clean. Installed Scotch Anti-skid Black Plastic Gripper Pads on to the battery cover, just to eliminate the battery from moving around, also make sure all of the bolts on the battery mounts in the frame are tight, they do come loose, you may want to put some blue loctite on them. Haven't had any battery issues for the last 1200 miles.

Thanks Mr. Epic, I'll give that a try.

 

[COMOFLO201]

Thanks Mr. Epic, I'll give that a try.

Also thought about using a little bit of di-electrical grease on all the plugs.

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

Also thought about using a little bit of di-electrical grease on all the plugs.

Yep, glad you mention it. di-electrical grease on the power plug to the EP8 motor.

 

[PaihiaMTB]

Yeah snug that upper battery mount up a bit tighter @COMOFLO201 . They come loose sometimes. That should solve it. Happy riding

 

[COMOFLO201]

Yeah snug that upper battery mount up a bit tighter @COMOFLO201 . They come loose sometimes. That should solve it. Happy riding

Yea I noticed that also. Not the greatest system. I think a shim on top of the battery will help hold it down and keep it seated tightly on the plug.

 

[Rusty]

This is an interesting video. It's in German so I can't understand it, but someone broke their Extreme Cross frame in half. From the pictures it looks like a bad weld between the head casting and the top and down tubes.

My initial thought is that the frame was not designed for those forks. A lot of people adding double clamp forks run into various issues, but talking to a couple DH guys, this is known on conventional DH bikes as well. Hope he swapped forks back before trying a waranty clain.

 

[COMOFLO201]

My MC-5 was doing that around 500 miles. I pulled the battery and clean out all the dust, use a electric cleaner
CRC 05018 Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner make sure the battery contacts are clean. Installed Scotch Anti-skid Black Plastic Gripper Pads on to the battery cover, just to eliminate the battery from moving around, also make sure all of the bolts on the battery mounts in the frame are tight, they do come loose, you may want to put some blue loctite on them. Haven't had any battery issues for the last 1200 miles.

So I did everything we've talked about here and it worked for a couple days, no problems. Then this morning on the trail, the bike powered off several times and it even threw the E020 error once. R&R'd the battery and the bike came back on but it did turn off a couple more times after that. I did not pull the small wires to the display or motor when I cleaned everything up and applied the dielectric grease because I don't have that tool and didn't want to damage the plugs.

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

The "E020 – Communication error detected between battery and drive unit. " When I install the battery, I have the eMTB flipped up side down. I leave the upper and lower battery mounts a little loose, then install the battery and make sure it snug (No Battery Movement) then tight the battery mount bolts. Also make sure the power plug on the motor is locked into place.

 

[COMOFLO201]

The "E020 – Communication error detected between battery and drive unit. "

Yep, saw that. so when I applied the dielectric grease I did not use it on the battery or battery cradle plug. Should I use it there as well?

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

Yep, saw that. so when I applied the dielectric grease I did not use it on the battery or battery cradle plug. Should I use it there as well?

I only use the dielectric grease on the power plug to the EP8 motor. I also so install a rubber O-ring on the power plug to the EP8 motor, just to help with keeping water out of the plug connection.

 

[COMOFLO201]

I only use the dielectric grease on the power plug to the EP8 motor. I also so install a rubber O-ring on the power plug to the EP8 motor, just to help with keeping water out of the plug connection.

Gotcha! I used grease on all the wiring harnesses and the motor power plug. I did not use it on the small wires going from the display to the motor. Wondering if that might help?

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

Gotcha! I used grease on all the wiring harnesses and the motor power plug. I did not use it on the small wires going from the display to the motor. Wondering if that might help?

I don't use dielectric grease on the connection to the display, but I don't think it will hurt if you use dielectric grease on it.
The other thing is when you installed the 3M padding on the inside of the battery cover make sure it's not where the power button on the battery located.

 

[COMOFLO201]

I don't use dielectric grease on the connection to the display, but I don't think it will hurt if you use dielectric grease on it.
The other thing is when you installed the 3M padding on the inside of the battery cover make sure it's not where the power button on the battery located.

No powering-off issues since my last post (approx 150 trail miles). I used dielectric grease on every wire with a plug, and the battery posts as well. Seems to be working... thanks all!

 

[Mr-EPIC-3]

No powering-off issues since my last post (approx 150 trail miles). I used dielectric grease on every wire with a plug, and the battery posts as well. Seems to be working... thanks all!

Happy Trails!
PS: I am up to 1500 miles now and no power-off issues, so try to beat that record