2021 Cube Stereo 160 Pivot Bearing Replacement

[Daboss]

2 years on and a tad over 5200ks the bearings are shot, we'll they were junk to begin with, anyhow I've replaced them all apart from the double bearing that sits on the end of the chainstay, these bearings are 63801, they sit back to back, so you can't press them out as I have every tool for the job, and a blind bearing puller hasn't worked either, does anyone or has someone managed to get these out, if so how please..

Thanks in advance

 

[RustyMTB]

I replied & deleted but I do feel a blind puller may still be your best option. You say it failed, how so?

 

[Daboss]

I replied & deleted but I do feel a blind puller may still be your best option. You say it failed, how so?

As there isn't much if any gap behind the bearing, the collect even after tightening as much as you can under force pulls out after a few pulls, I've even tried a wind out method however this yields the same result, I've also ordered another type of bearing extractor from bearingprotools for the 608 being 8mm ID.
Last resort will be the LBS or bearing joint and see if they can remove this stuck bearings, honesty though wtf put two bearings back to back with fa gap in between to remove, absolute joke mate.

 

[RustyMTB]

Right. I was thinking the right sized blind puller would work but I can see it's a pain with the bearings butted up against each other that way. The only other thing that springs to mind is drifting them out with some variation of a bottom bracket flared tool but even then I don't know if that exists & if it does whether there's enough room to get on the backside of the bearing.

 

[Daboss]

Right. I was thinking the right sized blind puller would work but I can see it's a pain with the bearings butted up against each other that way. The only other thing that springs to mind is drifting them out with some variation of a bottom bracket flared tool but even then I don't know if that exists & if it does whether there's enough room to get on the backside of the bea

It's an absolute ballach, I've spent 3 days on this pair of bearings lol, just can't get enough leverage on it to get it to move, hopefully once the tool from bearingprotools rocks up, rather than trying multiple times with a dyna bolt I've order then expanding 608 remover, see how that pans out, otherwise there staying in there, or buy a new rear triangle for cube.

 

[Hattori-Hanzo]

I'm no expert but the first thing that springs to mind to remove those would be a "slide hammer" with correctly sized collet?

Might be worth looking into that route?

 

[Daboss]

I'm no expert but the first thing that springs to mind to remove those would be a "slide hammer" with correctly sized collet?

Might be worth looking into that route?

All in my first post , have so and has failed unfortunately, as stated the bearings are so bloody close there's no real gap behind as it appears there's a channel the separates both bearings also, so the gap is quite shallow which is why the blind puller isn't working.

 

[Hattori-Hanzo]

ah I see, when you said puller I imagined one of the threaded screw types.
Can both bearings be removed from the same side?

Would some gentle heat from a mapp torch help?

Hopefully the new tool you've ordered does the job.

 

[RustyMTB]

Occurred to me too that if you could heat the end of the chainstay with a heat gun, it might just be enough to help the puller work. Fraught though, balancing it between not heating the bearings & damaging the paint.

 

[Hattori-Hanzo]

Yeah that was my thought.

I had to heat a stuck pedal bolt to cherry red recently as it was corroded solid.
Got it free and it didn't affect the paint on the crank arm too badly, though I understand this is a different scenario, but you shouldn't need to get it any where near that hot hopefully.

 

[funnel]

Maybe you can do it with a similar method if there're two bearings:

 

[Beaker2135]

I’ve just done mine, albeit on a 2019, I just pressed them both out with a vice using a couple of sockets.
I didn’t but If you need to use heat a kettle of boiling water is usually hot enough to help but cool enough not to do any damage. It can be messy though

 

[Daboss]

ah I see, when you said puller I imagined one of the threaded screw types.
Can both bearings be removed from the same side?

Would some gentle heat from a mapp torch help?

Hopefully the new tool you've ordered does the job.

As stated they cannot be as their sperated by a lip between them, appreciate your input.

I’ve just done mine, albeit on a 2019, I just pressed them both out with a vice using a couple of sockets.
I didn’t but If you need to use heat a kettle of boiling water is usually hot enough to help but cool enough not to do any damage. It can be messy though

Yeah not sure if the frames are the same, they appear different, I definitely know you cant push these right through due to the lip seperator between the bearings which make it quite a headache.

 

[Daboss]

Maybe you can do it with a similar method if there're two bearings:

If only the bearing was that size and easy to push out 🫤

 

[Beaker2135]

As stated they cannot be as their sperated by a lip between them, appreciate your input.

Yeah not sure if the frames are the same, they appear different, I definitely know you cant push these right through due to the lip seperator between the bearings which make it quite a headache.

Yes I’ve just seen in this post that there is a lip between the bearings on yours, they were just back to back in mine
Hope you find an easy and cheap resolution

 

[Daboss]

Yes I’ve just seen in this post that there is a lip between the bearings on yours, they were just back to back in mine
Hope you find an easy and cheap resolution

I've caved lol, I've left it with a mate who happens to own a bike shop, it's his headache now

 

[Jeffrey]

I own almost the same bike in 140... reaching soon 10'000 km
These bearings are still original but I re-greased them at around 3000km...

As there is no space between the two bearings, have you tried to push/hammer down both bearings at the same time?
A cold-spray may help to win few microns.

The last option would be to destroy (drill) the inner part of the bearing and remove the balls. Then using the ball groove on the outer part you can extract the bearing with a blind puller. I had once to do this on an extremely damaged blind bearing...

 

[Tepi]

2 vuotta ja vähän yli 5200 ks laakerit ovat ammuttu, ne olivat aluksi roskaa, joka tapauksessa olen vaihtanut ne kaikki paitsi kaksoislaakeri, joka on ketjutuen päässä, nämä laakerit ovat 63801. Istu selkä vastakkain, joten et voi painaa niitä ulos, koska minulla on kaikki työkalut tähän työhön, eikä myöskään sokealaakerin vedin ole toiminut, onko kukaan tai onnistunut saamaan nämä pois, jos on niin niin kiitos..

Kiitos etukäteen

View attachment 111251

Siis kierretangosta osa- aluslevyT- 2Xmutterit ,lisäksi sopiva hylsyavain jonka sisään laakerin voi vetää.ONNISTUU

 

[Spiff]

Some time ago I was able to remove the 688 drop-out bearings (8mm inner race) in my 2006 Stumpjumper, and in some days I will remove the ones in my Ghost ebike and I am posting below the process I am following.

The 688 drop-out bearings will need to be pulled out from each side of the frame’s forged drop-out with a 8mm sleeve anchor:

* Push the 8mm sleeve anchor into the 688's 8mm inner race.

* Place a tube or socket, which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 688 shell.

* Screw a 6mm bolt, flat washer and nut into the sleeve anchor.

* Tighten the bolt while holding the sleeve anchor with pliers so the inner race is not allowed to rotate. The sleeve anchor will wedge into the inner race of the bearing so it can be extracted.

* UPDATE 20230420: The biggest issue with this method is to screw the bolt that opens the anchor and tightens it inside the bearing inner race. The inner race rotates so to tighten the bolt you have to grip the anchor with a plier, but it is quite difficult to grip it. So I just soldered a 10mm NUT to the Sleeve anchor, I used a torch and strong tin solder with 6% Silver, which is used to solder copper pipes. Now I can easily grip it with a hex wrench. See pictures below

* Now tighten the nut slowly against the washer and it will pull the sleeve anchor with the bearing attached to it.

* For the opposite bearing you can repeate this process or push it out from "inside" because now there is no other bearing.

 

[Daboss]

Some time ago I was able to remove the 688 drop-out bearings (8mm inner race) in my 2006 Stumpjumper, and in some days I will remove the ones in my Ghost ebike and I am posting below the process I am following.

The 688 drop-out bearings will need to be pulled out from each side of the frame’s forged drop-out with a 8mm sleeve anchor:

* Push the 8mm sleeve anchor into the 688's 8mm inner race.

* Place a tube or socket, which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 688 shell.

* Screw a 6mm bolt, flat washer and nut into the sleeve anchor.

* Tighten the bolt while holding the sleeve anchor with pliers so the inner race is not allowed to rotate. The sleeve anchor will wedge into the inner race of the bearing so it can be extracted.

* Now tighten the nut slowly against the washer and it will pull the sleeve anchor with the bearing attached to it.

* For the opposite bearing you can repeate this process or push it out from "inside" because now there is no other bearing.

View attachment 111678 View attachment 111679 View attachment 111680

I tried a similar method with a Dyna bolt and PVC pipe over the bearing to no avail they seem tight asf in there if the Dyna bolt can't pull it out , I've ordered the tool from the UK should be here in Aus soon.

Appreciate the reply

 

[Spiff]

I tried also the Dyna bolt and it didn't work for me either. But the "Brass Anchor Sleeve" worked well.

I know about the BearingProTool, although the pictures in their web are not of the 8mm 688 one, but a larger one, and I fear that the 688 one will have a 1mm wall between a 6mm bolt and a 8mm inner race, and this may be too thin to be robust.

Please, post pictures of it and tell us if it looks robust or it looks "single use".

 

[Daboss]

I tried also the Dyna bolt and it didn't work for me either. But the "Brass Anchor Sleeve" worked well.

I know about the BearingProTool, although the pictures in their web are not of the 8mm 688 one, but a larger one, and I fear that the 688 one will have a 1mm wall between a 6mm bolt and a 8mm inner race, and this may be too thin to be robust.

Please, post pictures of it and tell us if it looks robust or it looks "single use".

View attachment 111705

That's what I've ordered eta Friday, giddy up hopefully

 

[E-MAD MALC]

Some time ago I was able to remove the 688 drop-out bearings (8mm inner race) in my 2006 Stumpjumper, and in some days I will remove the ones in my Ghost ebike and I am posting below the process I am following.

The 688 drop-out bearings will need to be pulled out from each side of the frame’s forged drop-out with a 8mm sleeve anchor:

* Push the 8mm sleeve anchor into the 688's 8mm inner race.

* Place a tube or socket, which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 688 shell.

* Screw a 6mm bolt, flat washer and nut into the sleeve anchor.

* Tighten the bolt while holding the sleeve anchor with pliers so the inner race is not allowed to rotate. The sleeve anchor will wedge into the inner race of the bearing so it can be extracted.

* Now tighten the nut slowly against the washer and it will pull the sleeve anchor with the bearing attached to it.

* For the opposite bearing you can repeate this process or push it out from "inside" because now there is no other bearing.

View attachment 111678 View attachment 111679 View attachment 111680

Yep
Seen this method used and work
Also I see a yt vid of someone using a drift getting a perchase on the inner side faces of the bearings looked a right have but it worked

 

[E-MAD MALC]

I remember where I see now it's our favorite Yorkshire bike merchanic

 

[Spiff]

Some time ago I was able to remove the 688 drop-out bearings (8mm inner race) in my 2006 Stumpjumper, and in some days I will remove the ones in my Ghost ebike and I am posting below the process I am following.

The 688 drop-out bearings will need to be pulled out from each side of the frame’s forged drop-out with a 8mm sleeve anchor:

* Push the 8mm sleeve anchor into the 688's 8mm inner race.

* Place a tube or socket, which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 688 shell.

* Screw a 6mm bolt, flat washer and nut into the sleeve anchor.

* Tighten the bolt while holding the sleeve anchor with pliers so the inner race is not allowed to rotate. The sleeve anchor will wedge into the inner race of the bearing so it can be extracted.

* UPDATE 20230420: The biggest issue with this method is to screw the bolt that opens the anchor and tightens it inside the bearing inner race. The inner race rotates so to tighten the bolt you have to grip the anchor with a plier, but it is quite difficult to grip it. So I just soldered a 10mm NUT to the Sleeve anchor and now I can easily grip it with a hex wrench. See pictures below

* Now tighten the nut slowly against the washer and it will pull the sleeve anchor with the bearing attached to it.

* For the opposite bearing you can repeate this process or push it out from "inside" because now there is no other bearing.

View attachment 111678 View attachment 111679 View attachment 111680 View attachment 112146 View attachment 112147

UPDATE: The biggest issue with this method is to screw the bolt that opens the anchor and tightens it inside the bearing inner race. The inner race rotates so to tighten the bolt you have to grip the anchor with a plier, but it is quite difficult to grip it. So I just soldered a 10mm NUT to the Sleeve anchor, I used a torch and strong tin solder with 6% Silver, which is used to solder copper pipes.

Now I can easily grip it with a hex wrench. I still have to try it and replace the dropout bearings in my bike, but it looks promising.

 

[Spiff]

That's what I've ordered eta Friday, giddy up hopefully

Did you get it? Please, post pictures.