12V Ebike front light with handlebar switch

BeBiker

Active member
Aug 26, 2020
700
421
Belgium
My Bosch Gen4 BES3 supports 12V front light power till 1A

I am looking for a front light that mounts on the handlebar, without batteries, but with a separate button for off/low/high next to the grips.

After exploring cheap Aliexpress models, I want something that mounts decently and lasts.

I see these models, some of them with the button as option:
Acid, Supernova, M99, Lezyne, Lupine, Litemove,...







What are your experiences?
I don't want 11 blinking modes, just something that switches fast and easy when I enter the dark bushes from a bright open field.
No need to light up the entire bush to see all the trees.
 
Last edited:

BeBiker

Active member
Aug 26, 2020
700
421
Belgium
After the 10% battery "reserve" issues we discovered, I want to run a light directly from the battery.

The Supernova m99 pro runs on 24v-60v

I read about a lot of "smart automatic" things.
Is it stupid enough to just switch on/off when I press the button ?
 
Last edited:

Hardtail

Active member
Mar 8, 2021
211
132
Uk
After the 10% battery "reserve" issues we discovered, I want to run a light directly from the battery.

The Supernova m99 pro runs on 24v-60v

I read about a lot of "smart automatic" things.
Is it stupid enough to just switch on/off when I press the button ?
Hey @BeBiker, I run the M99 mini pro 25, yes you can turn it on and off with the button if it is directly connected to the battery. Short or long press to turn it on then a short press will do high/low, long press to turn it off.
The M99 mini pro 25 is totally adequate for night riding in the forests, and a lot cheaper than the M99 Pro which is also twice the high beam power 32w vs 16w and three times the low beam 16w vs 5,2w. I suspect the M99 Pro will be like having Jesus sitting on the handlebars... If you are saving range you don't want to have an overpowered light, even the daylight mode, which is always on, pulls 4,5w. If you think the mini pro 25 is not enough you can always go for the 45 version but the biggest difference is the low-beam from the specs. As you mentioned these mini versions require a buck converter.
 

2WheelsNot4

E*POWAH Master
Oct 17, 2021
917
712
Scotland
Is it stupid enough to just switch on/off when I press the button ?
I watched a you tube vid on some bloke wiring in a light to the battery, and he then used the software app on his laptop. There were three options. OFF, OFF/ON( this was the on/off button on the light) or ON PERMANENTLY.

So from that I guess you wire in the lamp, then enable it for on/off in the app and save it which then makes it work. I dont think you can just wire it direct or when you switch on the lamp the max amps from the battery will flow into the lamp frying it.
 

MrPeaski

Active member
Sep 21, 2020
260
210
South Wales
@2WheelsNot4
Pretty sure that If the programming is done via the app or the pre smart system software, that only controls the dedicated light port on the motor. This then reserves a percentage of battery for the lights regardless of how much is remaining. Its a safety thing (German?) meaning that even if you can't power the motor there will always power to run lights.

The OP wants to eliminate this power reservation (OP had it disabled), so is basically cutting into a cable that only has power while the system is switched on, and will turn on the light via a simple switch/push button.
This light should then run regardless of how the software is set up.
 

2WheelsNot4

E*POWAH Master
Oct 17, 2021
917
712
Scotland
This then reserves a percentage of battery for the lights regardless of how much is remaining. Its a safety thing (German?) meaning that even if you can't power the motor there will always power to run lights.
Seems a bit technical, and tbh i dont know if we can tell of not is the hardware contains such an element that can partition off X amount of battery power. It seems more logical that the light draws from the battery as a whole.
 

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