Search results

Tyres still great for marbles over hard. Bit slidey however on long grass/heather!!

Just when I thought that it might be a "simple" swap......Lots & lots of information on possible set ups. Many thanks guys for the info on what you're running. Time methinks to look at all the various options & consider which way to jump. There's no special rush & I can get all the various bits...

Sorry for the delay in replying. The Alpkit troos look just the job. Sent away for a pair in a fetching blue colour. Should match my complexion!

Thanks guys for the replies. Apart from anything else I much prefer the SRAM system where you can lock the Derailleur. Makes it so much easier to get the wheel in/out. At my age and standard of "expertise" with bikes anything that makes life simpler and easy is mucho preferred. Not knocking the...

Thanks for the idea but I think that I'll pass on that. While it's not the be all and end all I'd be scared going into any shop wearing that lot. Trousers are 100% preferred

Yes. Only once and it wasn't a success. The cost was nearly as much as the troos. And before you say try somewhere else the specialist I chose has been excellent with any other alteration. Buying the correct size is what I'm looking for.

As far as I can see I'd need: SRAM XD Driver freehub Cassette Derailleur Crank (Chainset) Chain Shifter Battery + Charger Is that correct or have I missed out anything?

OK so I can't help it that I'm somewhat on the tubby side. So trousers these days are sadly Large or even Extra large. The leg length however remains stubbornly on the short side. I've had trousers of various kinds shortened in the past but certainly for biking it alters the fit too much...

Sluggan Bridge near Carrbridge. Originally built by General Wade as part of his military road building. Washed away and rebuilt sometime in the 1800s

WOOP WOOP Another blue sky day. The Burma Road at Aviemore.

2022 Trek Rail 9.8 XT drivetrain with Bosch motor. So what are the best tools for: 1) Tightening the chain ring and 2) Crank removal tool Silly question probably. Will the same crank removal tool be OK for a SRAM drivetrain or do I need a different tool? If so recommendations please...

Well thanks for all the advice. As you can see I eventually went for the Michelin E-Wild Racing Line 2.6 Absolute magic for the conditions as originally detailed. Sooper draggy on tarmac but that's not what they're designed for. So at the moment like very much..

The potato sits on the saddle. Obvs!

Spot on. After eventually getting a supply of Schrader valves & getting my sh1t together that's sorted. PHEW!(y) As an aside I've probably got all the tools that I need or can use. I did have a lot of tools from my long ago rallying days but what's left isn't an awful lot of use for bikes.

Reading that again the brain clearly wasn’t connected to the fingers! What worries me always is what if I cock it up by doing something that screws up the situation!! SO Are there any specific steps or actions that I have to take BEFORE letting all the air out of the shock. If so what actions...

Thanks. Not having delved into the mechanics of any shock on any bike that I've had I'd just like to pick your brains on how to go about replacing the valve. I assume firstly that I have to remove ALL the air from the shock before doing anything. Is that correct? Sorry if that's a simple stupid...

Thanks for the replies. I'm not carping as all information can be useful but I have a reasonable idea of how to corner garnered over many many years of running bikes. The Bontragers didn't work at all in even in a straight line whether braking or not. Yes I also know that no tyre is the magic...

Trek Rail 9.8. Shock is: RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ RT, 230 mm x 57.5 mm When I attach the shock pump it reads zero. Start to pump and it shows pressure. If I pump up the pressure say to 100 it doesn't stay there but reduces. It doesn't reduce to NIL but below the pressure for a proper sag...

Thanks for the thoughts. Research on the net can be great but nothing beats actual experience. Research indicates that the new Michelin E Wild (2.6) might be good. Crap on tarmac (high wear rate) but good on loose & dry if your pressures are correct. A bitch to fit apparently. Is any of that...

Thanks for the info.:)