I got the FSA 155mm cranks. 10MM shorter and 5mm closer to the stays (on each side!). I've noticed a big drop in the number of pedal strikes. I takes a ride or two to get used to them, but I don't even notice it now. I think I change gears more than when I had the 165's on but that seems to be...
Main pivot protector to keep the rocks out. They make big chips in the carbon. Frame protector for sure. I make my own with 3M clear bra tape. I also added a set screw into the front chainring to prevent the chainring nut from backing out. Check motor mount bolts. I lost one after 500 miles...
For some reason I've broken the mount holding mine twice now. I replaced the sensor the first time, super easy. Attach a string as you pull the old one through the stay so you can pull the new one through. Really not that big of a hassle. I've just super glued it this last time and seems to be...
I have a small and use a YT Thirstmaters 2000 and it works great. It's only about 16oz, but it's enough for quick rides. They have some other bigger options too. Thirstmaster
Try putting the module on the other side of the motor with the smaller connector under the plugs (horizontally) and the larger one in front of the motor plugs (somewhat vertically). Use some tape to protect the wires crossing over under the motor. Also use a piece of foam to keep the module from...
I ride a 9.7 small, the only thing I could find that fits is the YT Thirstmaster 2000. It side entry that helps, but it's very awkward to pull out and put back in while riding. The bottle is just kind of weird shape, but at least I can carry some water...
I have the same inseam (and 5' 4") I ride a small Trek Rail 9.7. It's definitely the biggest bike I own, but its totally doable. The Standover is listed at 29.6" but I'm still able to manage it. I wanted a 27.5 wheel bike but they're pretty almost nonexistent (except some mullet setups).
I did...
My creak in the main pivot only showed up when I put pressure on the pedals, it wasn't there when I just pushed on the seat. It seems like putting force through the pedals makes the creak more likely to show itself. Oiling the pivots one time resolved it. I should probably take it apart this...
Oil on each side of the chain stay pivot points. The gap between the frame and chain stay. There are bearings in there, but I'm guessing dirt gets in and causes the creak. I noticed the creak went away one time after going through a some puddles, so you could try pouring some water on the joints...
Had the same creak on my Rail 9.7, turned out to be the main lower pivot. Figured it out by putting a drop of oil on each side, suddenly gone. Simple test to avoid tearing apart the motor mounts.
I have a 9.7 and it's very supple with stock shocks. I do run the PSI a little lower than the Trek calculator says to. I'm about 155lbs. I run the tires at 17psi.
Throwing this out to see what ideas people have. I have a 2020 Rail 9.7 with about 500 miles on it. Within the last 100 miles I've noticed a very significant creek coming from the motor area. I've narrowed it down to when I putting force into the left crank when assist is on (in all modes...
Since you've been posting, I've started putting a 1"x 3" piece of 3M Clear Bra from the cover to the frame at the top to be safe. It doesn't even show and the stuff is tough. I just replace it when I pull the battery out. Good peace of mind.