Yes, I have used this time ratchet version. Previously with ''alloy build'' wheels I have used 6-bolt pawl version.
M1 hub with pawl's done about 800km no problem. Opened just once after about 500km for inspection, cleaned + regreased.
Spoke calculation is easy - just putt the values into the...
HI
This time I decided to try 29" carbon rims. Bought pair of shallow BTLOS M-i30AS rims. Rims are in enduro version (a bit heavier than XC and AM finish). To make long story short, all the details bellow.
BOM:
-2x BTLOS M-i30AS carbon rims (enduro version)
-set of ZTTO M1 hubs
-60pcs D-light...
Newmen sl rims are very good, I am smashing my ones for past 700km, they are perfect. From my perspective, I'll never buy wheels again, prefer to builds my wheels myself to my preferences.
1.Range in eco about 50km / 1200m elevation. Tour mode about 40km / 1000m. Rest of the modes I am using very rarely as they are too powerful for my riding style. Boost mode can be compared as not far away from bosch cx motor.
2. Only DIY range e tender so faf.
3. I have lyrik 170mm in my...
Yes, you can fitt 5,5mm connector. In order to use it there are two options.
1. Buy lab psu 60V 5A.
2. Modyfiy ori 2A bafang charger, you will need 4,7kR and 15kR resistor, both 0,6W. Next solder then in the charger an replace bafang cable wit standard cable with 5,5mm plug.
I had replaced bafang charging port with standard one. Had a cold solder joint in my plug causing charging issues. There can be one of 3 issues.
1. ID resistor 4.7kR not connected-charger will not provide power.
2. THERMISTOR issue - charger will not provide power.
3. Main cable issue -...
Bellow mystery of bafang 43V charging port. If needed get yourself a two resistors soldered in the charger itself and replace port with standard 2 contact plug.
Easy to open. First remove C clip at the drive side, than unscrew few bolts aroint the housing. There is no need to unscrew 3 bolts from the motor itself at non drive side.
When putting back together do not overtight the bolts arout motor housing.
Mod : Copied from another thread as it's useful.
The Motor is easy to open. First remove C clip at the drive side, than unscrew a few bolts around the housing.
There is no need to unscrew 3 bolts from the motor itself at non drive side.
When putting back together do not overtighten the bolts...
At last, Rob got the right frame 😁
The subject in the video is 100% up to date. Exactly reason I went with DIY ebike.
4k EUR we can build light ebike with customisation we like. Where is the point of buying 10kEur ebike and upgrade wheels, stem, handlebar, dropper post, T transmission, grips...
Bafang have the PCB on the top of the motor :D
Electronic section is nicely separated from the mechanical side (kind of splash guard), so if there is a bit of the water inside in theory it shouldn't destroy PCB right away.
I think is sorted.
Wire inside charging socket was barely soldered to the pin so it snapped inside. When I was maneuvering the cables it was showing continuity but after all cables fitted in the frame it was not connecting at times.
In case someone is going to replace charging socket with...
Good morning.
A few screenshots from today.
In the diagnostics of controller I am getting 0108 fault code or two codes 01 and 08, i do not know, maybe that is why my battery is not charging. Bike drives 100% OK.
The other thing I found is set of parameters in section 6012, did anyone tried to...
I wouldn't be concern about 4.1V vs 4.2V , more of the juice is wasted down bellow the voltage chart. In my case at 3.389V no load battery is at 3% left. Let me say at 35mOhm@2A load a cell we have circa 3.32V, let me say 3,3V.
So If we discharge cells let me say to 2.9V we are gaining easily...