I’m also done with derailleur and cassette. Just ordered kindernay. In 18 months and 2600 miles, I’ve been through 4 hangers, 4 cassette, and 3 chains. The first chain last the longest at 1000 miles. For some reason the cog on one of the cassette bent so I had to replace it. Yes I tried bending...
The vii with 20t cog is similar with 10t to 43.8t and with 22t cog 10.6t to 45.8t. I used 50t once in blue moon so I’m thinking of not needing 50t. In the rare occasion I need it I can always switch to turbo.
Bought my bike in May, after first few rides I realized I needed pedals. Bought pedals and grip and saddle. Nothing else until Christmas, which I bought new fork
I tried both S/M and L. The reach is better in large but that seat tube problem mean I can’t reach the floor.
I’m 173 cm with 30” inseam. I ended up with S/M and increased my stem by 30 mm for a while. Ended putting the 50mm back and happy with it.
I do this all the time now to practice. Much easier actually on the race track as we are trained to rev match when shifting gears. One time I didn’t even realized my clutch slave cylinder weren’t operating until I’m driving in the paddock.
Helicoil and timeserts are proper thread repair. We use it for a lot of racing applications even as critical as engine building, including head bolts which require a lot of torque. I would not hesitate to use it for thread repair. That being said a proper repair is necessary and that depends on...
Is it the limitation of gen 3 watch? I have the most recent and my first Apple Watch. But I can just run strava directly from the watch or run Apple workout app and it will sync to strava.
I did 3 weeks road trip with Thule T2. Solid but big and bulky. I now have 1 up. It’s much more compact and light. However the bike move around more but seem secure.
My Bosch also has free wheel built in. Interesting observation and I don’t know if it is better to have fixed rear or not. The benefit like you said you can always change gears as long as you’re moving. Another is has to be stronger hub without the pawl
Just curious, if you rarely ride above eco and ride unassisted a fair amount, why not just ride regular bike? Surely an eco mode on SL is about the same as regular bike? And non assisted is harder than regular bike? Since lighter bike is better, the descend on the SL is worse than regular bike...