Of course it is, because on section 5-10km of a ride you're on XC flat/hills, then 2 mins later you're into a root garden, then rocks, then jumps, then Fireroads... you can't ever expect a suspension to be 100% perfect on everything.
Right? And? That means Orbea is bad? You seem to have walked into the room having a question but already knowing the answer. I'm struggling to get where you're going with this other than not listening to people who are telling you that you're wrong
Not an eeeb i'll admit... but a cool one from Switzerland at the weekend of the boy.
randr-photo-14700333-3000px-by-bikestuffphotos by Steve Weeks, on Flickr
I'm confused as to why he wants to remove the cap anyway. Like with Raceface etc, i don't know what the secondary one is for, it doesn't seem to have an actual purpose as you only use the 8mm allen on these usually anyway. But i admit, i've never used Hope cranks.
You kinda just have to go round with your finger and thumb on every location that may move. Put the bike on it's wheels and sit on the rear wheel, then pull just below the seat post and lift, you'll feel the play, then work out which bit has the play and sort. Obviously if the bike is new it...
Here's a curveball then
https://www.rsrbikeworks.co.uk/
Rich is a telemetry/data guy and uses fangled technology to set up your suspension by multiple rides/track riding. He was the chief setup guy for GT Factory and is now at Scott as he does Ethan Craiks bike. The thing with using this is it...