Hi Stu.
Yes, I've done doing what I was doing and proved it works so I'm at the point where I need to decide whether to stump up the money for a patent or not.
The gamble for me is whether any motor manufacturers would pay a few pence per unit to use the idea or whether they're happier paying...
There's an adjustment for wheel size, like most motors, but I don't know if there's a US setting option as such.
I'm told that they can sell all of their manufacturing capacity so I doubt that they would sell a motor unless it was to replace one in a bike that came with a Polini motor to begin...
There's five 'groups' of power delivery characteristics, and five levels within each group.
There's 'race' group, which gives a high output/input ratio so it doesn't take much from the rider to get a lot from the motor.
'Dynamic' group is middle ish delivery and, if I'm not needing to preserve...
The 75 Nm motor has been around for six years now, and it looks to be physically the same as the 90Nm 'MX' version that's been out for maybe 2 years now.
My MX has done 1000 miles now with no issues so far.
The main gear to the crank MAY be bushes, as others are too, but the main side bearings are 100% definitely cartridge bearings, you can see them in the pictures and the videos.
I'm not aware that the mounts are the same as any other, but you also have to consider the battery mounting and speed sensor type are compatible, as well as the motor itself.
I'm really impressed with the Fulgur Mula bike as a whole, the EXT supension in particular. The bike perfectly suits...
The grease goes on the drive gear. The main shaft is on sealed cartridge beaings, not bushings.
There may be bushes between the crank shaft and the drive hub but those parts only rotate against each other when you back pedal or when the motor overruns. Yamaha motors are on bushes in that...
FYI, the Polini EP3+ has already been around for six years, so if there were any particular design issues with bearings they'd have been updated by now. I was also told that they have had ZERO failures so far, but I did point out that as yet they hadn't been testing them in soggy Rossendale...
I reckon about 9 miles on rough trails and 1000 feet of proper climbing for every 100 Wh of battery is about the crossover point where it would be easier without a motor. I can do typically 45 miles and 5000 feet on a 500 battery but have to ride with the power off, or in Eco, for a lot of the...
I've started riding with my heart rate displayed on my nav and adjust the bike assistance level to maintain 140-180 BPM. Sometimes that means riding with zero assistance, so is actually harder than an analogue bike.
I have got the 'updated' paddle but it does have a habit of triggering a shift when the terrain is really rough, I assume because there's more mass behind the pivot. I didn't have any involuntary shifts with the original paddle, but that could be just coincidence.
I do wish that there was a...
It's worth noting that if you carry your bike on a bike rack or in a van it's better to take the battery off because the movement 'wakes up' the system and drains the battery a bit, even if you're not changing gears.
And general battery hours depends on how many shifts you do, but it's plenty...
If you fit one keep the pivots clean and lubed.
My GX AXS wore out the pivot bores in the parallelogram in no time, causing poor shifts. Admittedly our dirt is pretty abrasive, but I've had enough mechanical derailleurs and not had an issue with those, only the AXS.
That said, SRAM swapped it...
It appears that in most of the systems the motor, battery, display and control buttons are all nodes on the bus.
It makes sense the way that Bosch have gone, and the lack of backwards compatibility with the older Gen-4 is understandable given the system architecture. At least the new bits are...