Doesn’t the torque meter already included with the bike provide power data. I’d look into the power data generated by the E Tube Ride App and see if that provides what you are looking for.
Dang, but thank you for confirming. Literally my only complaint about the bike is that the seat is up a lot higher than I like, even with the seatpost slammed.
Anyone know if the Rise seat tube height has been reduced on newer models? It looks like most Rises have the seat tube collar right about the top tube but on my rise the seat tube extends substantially beyond the top tube.
photos attached showing the difference
Removing the battery is a huge pain in the ass. Totally delete that from your mind as a potential solution. No way anyone would do that every time they transport their bike with their car.
I would personally just put the overweight bike on the roof rack you have and use your brain, ex. drive...
I do not notice the flex while riding but I may be I’m an outlier in that regard.
I think the lack of seatstay bridge and use of clevis mount instead of a more robust rocker link are the reasons we feel flex. I can barely get it all aligned for reassembly after taking the linkages apart to...
I don’t notice it while riding but notice a lot of flex while pushing on the rear wheel from the side while stationary. Initially I thought the rear axle was loose.
I didn’t notice a difference, it had felt good but I was hearing a creak that I thought was coming from one of the pivots. After greasing everything but the main pivot, I think the noise is actually coming from the derailleur cable housing (between the front and rear triangle) rubbing on the frame.
The approach you described is what I initially employed and struggled with. I could physically get the bolt through the washers but it wouldn’t catch threads until I loosened up many of the other bolts.
Glad to hear I’m not the only one. I was in and out of a stand but may try in a stand without a wheel next time. Would definitely make certain aspects easier. I’m just used to my Transition where I can work through one side of the bike at a time without all the rear triangle flex/alignment...
My solution: loosened up the rear axle, shock extender bolts on both sides, and front shock bolt. This gave me enough play in the rear triangle and linkages that applying significant force on the seat stay hex while rotating caused it to align the bolt threads with the threads in the end of the...
Anyone find it very difficult to get the seat stay hex bolts to align and begin threading when reinstalling? Really hoping someone has some tips to make this easier. I think I may have damaged the start of the threads enough from spinning the bolt up while misaligned enough that it won’t catch now.
I don’t think your issues is related to the switch or the charge port. Sounds like the motor, battery, or connection between the two based on your description of the bike turning off while riding.
This is the biggest issue with ebikes though, once we have issues it’s so difficult to...
The seat tube on the Rise is longer than most, reducing the overall dropper travel required. I bet a 200mm dropper is probably what you need, regardless of what you can get away with from an insertion depth perspective.
For comparison, I have an XL Transition Sentinel with a 210mm dropper and...
You’re looking for offset bushings. You can buy a pair or single from this site Offset Bushings | Orbea Rise
I’ve got one on the clevis end. Didn’t think it’d fit on the other based on feedback of shock rubbing on smaller frames but I don’t think a fox dhx2 would rub on and XL frame with an...