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Full Factory Suspension will sell you seal and oil kits. They also do improved wiper seals and stuff like that. Worth doing.

https://www.dhmo.org/facts.html Sobering!

There speaks a rider who (presumably) doesn't ride in a wet, muddy climate. I think the drive chain maintenance on my eeeb over the winter is probably 2-3 times that of my real bike per km, and that's with a careful clean of the drive chain after every ride.

Nah, it's like comparing Fillet Steak to a really nice Risotto. Love them both, wouldn't want to eat either one all the time, wouldn't want to not have the option of both. Anyway, if you eat nothing but steak then you'll get fat and poor. 😂

If the added travel is affecting/improving braking bump performance then you need to go one click faster on your rebound damping. The fork's packing down under repeated impact. You'll probably find it makes it more comfortable everywhere else too.

I've only watched the first minute. In that time you've sped through a pedestrianised area with people literally having to swerve / dive out your way, then you've run a red light out onto the road. It's morons like you that make everyone hate cyclists.

I'm sure someone with local knowledge will be able to suggest Scottish trails that will fit the bill, but Antur Stiniog is the most alpine-style riding that I've tried in the UK. Steep, loose and technical.

I'm not riding with anyone that fast, but we're regularly in the top 10% in Strava. I'm probably the slowest in the group, but I can keep up on my regular bike. Like I said, give it 10 years and I'll probably want an SL to stay with the pace, but not just yet.

No regret at all, but it's 100% my second bike. I reckon it's another 10 years before it might be my only bike, and even then I'd hope it would be an SL of some sort.

I don't currently feel the need for an SL ebike. My Enduro is my main bike, and my group of friends mostly rides regular bikes. It's a fast group, so my FF e160 let me go out with them until my fitness was good enough to keep up on the real bike. I love having an ebike, but definitely my second...

No, I'm questioning whether there could be a spec that could meaningfully influence a buying decision. I know if a car is diesel or petrol. I know if it's turbocharged, and what the peak power per displacement is. I have an idea on economy. I happen to know details like whether it's direct or...

My ebike is most definitely my second bike. I love it, but I do more miles on the real bike (Specialised Enduro) than I do the eeeb.

Wind both compressions wide open. Set sag to about 25-30% with you standing on the pedals wearing riding gear. Leave high speed open, put three clicks on low speed compression, adjust to taste to make sure you have support in berms and under braking but keep the fork supple. If in doubt, just...

What’s your plan with that Spec. Are you going to run an FE model to analyse how you think it’s going to hold up? Get a sample and impact test it?

I'd challenge the idea that aluminium is easy to repair. You need a skilled welder, and then if you don't heat treat the frame again it's going to be seriously weakened. Heat treat it and you'll need to jig it or it's going to go out of alignment, a big job. TL;DR: if you see an Aluminium...

It makes sense that it would lose pressure faster, all else being equal. You've reduced the volume of air in the tyre by 30-50%. That means that the same absolute volume of air lost is a larger % of the total volume, therefore a larger pressure drop. I top up my tyres weekly, I just view it as...

Did not know that about carbon, interesting. Presumably your other points are also valid though as it works well. :) A mate got one of those Muc-Off mounts to put the tag in the tyre. Junk, didn't work well at all, the valve kept coming unscrewed. He sent it back.

Yep, mine's in the frame. Works great, can't be removed without the battery key, carbon frame is nice and radio transparent.

You're conflating two things here. Whether the fork bottoms out or not is a combination of spring rate, spring ramp, and high-speed compression damping. You can avoid the fork bottoming out by using a stiffer spring / higher air pressure, reducing the air spring volume to make the spring rate...

About 400 km so far