My cranks have QR codes embedded on them, but those codes just point to User Manuals – ethirteen support, which of course has no manual for these cranks.
One of my crank arms had a flimsy QR sticker placed over one of the embedded QR codes. Unfortunately it doesn't go anywhere :(
Indeed that was my bad, I put the wrong link, meant to link to the root-level folder for user manuals. It's fixed. But, can confirm, I am on motor #3 from Brose and my cranks are fine :)
I just noticed the manual for the Rise does *not* list the torque values for the cranks at all (neither alloy nor carbon). We have the updated values from @e*thirteen Components for the alloy cranks but we need the definitive answer on the carbon ones too...there's no manual at all for the...
I was wondering about those holes in the spindle. My e13 cranks seemed to be lined up with them, but I couldn't figure out why. However, looking at the Shimano plate, I can't say I believe that would make a huge difference (part is Y0J698050). Seems like something that's useful to speed...
The chainring blocks access to two of the bolts that need to be removed in order to drop the motor. Since the spider and chainring are all one piece, there's no way to remove the ring without removing the lock ring as well.
Your mileage may vary on the cable install. I have an internal cable...
I use the Specialized SWAT CC multi-tool. I think One Up recently released a headtube-based tool that doesn't require cutting threads in the steerer as well.
I'm giving up trying to run a new dropper housing without dropping the motor, and I figure I will need this tool from time to time anyway. Sharing my research in hopes of saving others the search :)
The Shimano tool is TL-FC39
The Park Tool version is LRT-2
But both of these are lame as you...
Not really. I got them because they're 320g lighter than the stock wheels and a bit wider (29mm vs 26mm). I'm surprised how well they ride though, very direct. Not overly stiff, a "good" stiff. Very nice for such lightweight wheels. I prefer DT Swiss internals too. But do they feel significantly...
The issues regarding increased stress on the shaft due to a fixed lower mount apply to any bike that uses a fixed lower mount. Fox has an article on it here:
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1138
Regardless of how you have it mounted, Cane Creek does not recommend the IL for...
I'm running the SLs. All good so far. They have a 125kg weight limit (I'm not even close to that), a lifetime warranty, and no fault crash replacement.
(just to be safe)
The crank caps are for preloading, not retention. Don't rely on those to hold your cranks on. I mean I suppose it's better than nothing if your crank bolt fails and you need to limp home, but they're not strong enough for regular riding. That's not what they are for.
As I've said (at least twice) ;) this is what Push already does. EXT did it on the V1 shocks but switched back to bushings. I asked, but never got an explanation why.
I see! This is the fundamental misunderstanding. The lower eyelet on a Levo is NOT a hinge. The Levo flip chip does *not* allow the shock to rotate. It's torqued way too high to be a pivot, and there's no bushing anyway. It's not intended to allow the shock to move. This is why I said it's...
I see what you mean. The shock is offset precisely to counteract this I would say. I think the designers have some idea what they're doing :)
No it can't swing. The mount (the so called "flip chip") is under relatively high torque. It's not meant to be a pivot, there's no bushing.
The lower...
These are the new $1350 Control wheels, not the $2500-$2700 SL wheels. $1,350 for carbon wheels is a really good price, although the savings all comes from the cheapy hubs in this case, as the rim is the same.