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I’m guessing that the bearing he has is a step down bearing for a 1.8 lower cup but a 1.5 inner diameter to match his old forks. The 1.8 forks won’t fit through that bearing so a thinner bearing for a 1.8 cup and 1.8 steerer should work if I’m correct

The top should be fine, just the lower bearing and crown race

I was under the impression that the trek rail that the op has is one of the bikes that takes a 1.8 steerer? If that’s the case then all he needs is the correct lower bearing and crown race

Sorry, just looked into this further, strangely the qm40 is only a +20mm adaptor so your forks are 140mm rotor size standard. Adding 40mm shouldn't be too bad but best to check if you can as they are carbon road/hybrid forks. Also the vibes that I’m looking at says that the forks are flat mount...

By the sounds of it your forks are pm120 so designed for a 120mm rotor without any adaptors. Problem is the chart doesn’t go that small. You’re looking at a front +60mm pm to pm adaptor. I would be checking with the fork manufacturer if your forks can safely take an increase of that much...

Or get something like one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354331081535?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lzpqoxowqma&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9m1NuFtFQ76&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I got one just to help limit crap getting into the frame and electrics on wet muddy rides...

There only seems to be one available for the crafty, an Andreani guard and it doesn’t come cheap. Hence I’m in the process of making my own. Also not sure it fits the newer bikes as they have a bump on the stock plastic guard the the previous model doesn’t have

Depending on what motor you have: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284859620135?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nIAqBiV2RHK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9m1NuFtFQ76&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Allen key, Crank puller, a pair of circlip pliers and 30 mins of your time are all you need to...

Yer that would have been nice but would screw me for access to my swat stem multi tool. Have to loosen the purion it to rotate it. Edit: just realised you were referring to someone else’s post

Sorry to revive an old thread but spent a couple of evenings mucking about trying to get my purion off the bars and out of harms way so I can view it and also be able to turn the bike upside down. Played around with some brackets until I realised I’m over complicating it. Just used a longer...

I bought a set of hope pro 2 hubs when they first came out. I laced those onto 3 different sets of wheels over a period of 8 years and only replaced 2 pawl springs in that time with plenty of abuse. Simple cleaning and greasing kept them going on the original bearings, by the time I sold them...

Yep.

You need to use sealant and once inside, give it a good shake all round to try and coat every bit of surface inside or take it for a good ride straight away. Sealant will seal all the tiny gaps you won’t easily know about

I fitted a charger 2.1 to my b1 Lyrik which is almost the same fork without problems. There are plenty of them advertised for a1+ yari (2016 and later which includes yours) and that model number is one of those so I’m pretty sure you’re fine.

I had problems in the past pouring sealant into the valve due to air not being able to escape whilst you’re adding it. You either need to force it in and wait for it all to drain down before removing application device, pour it in whilst maintaining a gap for air to escape or squeeze the...

That sleeve from the motor cover to the chainstay was the only ‘snag’ on mine. The rest was pretty free for movement.

I remember in the early nineties trying solid tyres on my mtb. Full rigid bike as well, probably explains a few of the health problems I’m dealing with now. Never had a puncture with those…

Just finished installing my mt7 brakes. Where the hose has a fitting moulded onto it at the calliper end the same as the codes that I was removing, I couldn’t use the sram barbed fitting. Had to pull the old one out towards the calliper and reverse for the new one. Was a bit of a faff but this...

+1 for hope bearings. I’ve always been very impressed with the durability of their headset and hub bearings.

So on my 2021 with removable battery it runs inside the frame at the top and then through a thin plastic sleeve/tube that’s fixed inside the frame to keep the cables tidy and help battery removal/install as well as stop them rattling I suppose. Then it runs quite loosely behind the lower battery...