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To be fair, Gary, 100% whatever works for you! However, although I know dirt jumpers, trials/street riders and the like favour even higher pressures, 40psi is definitely at the higher limit of what most riders would run for trail riding. As you say, rider weight, casings, riding style are all...

Those pressures aren't even particularly high compared to what some riders will run, but I agree, I always like to run the lowest pressure I can get away with, not a good feeling to have the tyres skittering and skipping. If you can't run lower without burping, looks like it's some sort of tyre...

It's very hard to show in photos. This is the R/H (drive side) rocker. The transfer folds over the front edge, but not the inside edge. Hope this helps! Cut around each piece closely with scissors and that should help you see how they fit. They are a bit tricky, the way I thought was...

This is the rocker. The invisiframe pieces go along the top edge. I found it easiest to first cut around each piece with scissors, which helped me figure out the correct orientation. How those rocker pieces are meant to go was different from the how it first appeared to me, just looking at them...

It is not any particular model of Trek bike that is at fault, it is the Bontrager wheels in general. I do like Treks, this is my 2nd, all bikes no doubt have their faults, and Treks tend to deliver good bang for buck. But the Bonty wheels are not fit for purpose in my experience. The cheap alloy...

Kia Ora, I'm not far from you in North Loburn. Do you ride in the Ashley Forest? Good trails there, closed this weekend though due to concern about the expected high winds

You could very well be right! I'll give the XT a try and see how it goes. If the extra spend doesn't translate to significantly more miles, it's back to SLX for sure (y)

I think you'll be much happier with your DT hub (y) ?

I do heaps of steep climbing, so grinding describes my riding very well ? also it is an slx chain, I'm hoping the xt will last longer, maybe I could push it out to 0.75% wear instead of the recommended 0.5%. At $70- $80 NZD they're not the cheapest

Wow you get 6-700 miles out of a chain? Mine is showing up worn at just 500kms/310miles :oops: lubed after each ride

Just had the bike out and counted the links. 120, or 119 plus quick link, with standard 34T ring and 10-51 cassette. (y) So even if I'm a bit out with my counting, the 126 link chain is the one to get!

Interesting! However, like you I followed the instruction pdf and made the adjustments. I've now done 500kms, most of it on rough singletrack, some pretty rowdy descents and some fire road riding as well, without a single issue. I bought some straps for extra security but I'm confident riding...

Hi everyone, has anyone replaced the chain on their Rail, and would be able to confirm how many links are needed? Looking at the shimano chains there are several lengths available. Pretty sure a 126 link would do but I've seen 138 as well. Torpedo 7 were obviously caught short assembling my...

Looks gorgeous ?

I have the same, seem like good solid hubs

My hub that failed wasn't worn. In fact I had just serviced it and replaced some broken pawl springs. The centre piece where the ratchet part is, is bonded (glued) into the hub. This bond let go. So, like the OP in the video, I could spin the pedals with the wheel on the ground , but no drive...

Ok, yes, the knock block may well be strong enough in the majority of cases. But even if damage is rare, is that reason not to warranty when it does occur? I come back to my Bike Yoke dropper. They didn't say because the fault is rare, we aren't going to warranty. They honoured their warranty...

They're not fit for mountain biking at all. Mine failed on my accoustic bike.

100% agree. If you're going to design a frame where the crown can hit the down tube, the knock block should be strong enough to withstand the impact of crashes

Hope you get something sorted in time!