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I dont think bike weight is an issue......technique and cockpit set up are far more likely causes of her issue. The fact she tackles downhill blacks well suggests she is fine bringing her weight over the back of the bike.............the fact she crashes on mild downhill bends..going...

DT Swiss HX 1700 wheel.......................all upgraded for EMTB use......spokes/hub (350)/freehub ( steel).

dialectric grease is (as stated above) designed to prevent arcing from one terminal to another..or nearly by metal structures. It is not designed to apply to metal connectors..........nor is any other grease for that matter since it will only attract dust and dirt. Standard lithium grease can be...

1. right size width for your sit bones 2. rear suspension set up plush 3. Relatively low rear tyre pressure 4. saddle height correct if pedalling seated 5. A good chamois ( most are useless/cheap especially if supplied as undershorts with baggy shorts) 6. Bike cockpit set up so that not...

...and Im told the motor mounts are different.

. It is full sus EMTBs that is the niche market. Trek and Specialized are major players in the broader cycle market that include EMTBs in their extensive portfolios of mtbs, road bikes, kids bikes, tourers, city bikes etc.

whilst the overall "E Bike" market has significant volume and growth, full suspension EMTB remains, by comparison, a niche market and better suited to fairly small volume boutique and/or specialist manufacturers than big brands with heavy overheads and a huge range of products.

...or changed the support profiles. If they were all set to zero...or maybe - 1 or 2 or if dynamic was set the same......and they zeroed them all or "upped" them all........yep you would notice a significant difference. ( all of that is a vaialble for you to change/play with on the Fow App)...

Take a look at the various "SL" bikes or XC bikes....they invariably are fitted with the lightest/fastest rolling tyres for an EMTB.

rear mechs with clutches and chainrings with narrow/wide tooth profiles should make chainguards redundant. I understand the point that they can, nevertheless, provide some additional insurance, but for most chainguards I have seen, they have to be so wide to cater for the chainline difference...

...agree.....the only water my bike gets is a damp cloth....except for the wheels which I clean separate from the bike and use a bike cleaner plus a hose ( my bike is kept in the house so tyres need to be clean!)

These types of ally v carbon discussions always overlook one key factor.......describing a frame as "carbon" is fairly meaningless! The construction is a composite comprising choices of carbon fibre of different modulus and mat design (UD/matrix) and may even comprise a matrix of other materials...

trail spec for the front wheel, enduro for the rear...........but if you were riding in the Peaks or Wales I would put enduro front and back. One big benefit of the heavier casing a part from puncture protection is the ability to run lower pressures which aids grip and comfort.

I really do not understand why folk rely on Bike systems to record rides or navigate when there are reliable and much more professional apps that do the job. Strava for example can be used for free and all you have to do is set it to record before you start. As a mainsteam ride app Strava...

The 38 does not have e optimised.....it is fully strong enough by design

Here is a different perspective!! I use GX chains.....never seen any sign of rust. After most rides I wipe and brush the chain in situ...then lube, the wipe off all excess. Occasionally I slip the chain off the chainwheel and cassette and let it dangle over a pot....use a degreaser then water in...

The 750 battery is a heavy beast and needs really secure fixing in the downtube. I would say the most secure is a Bosch rail system since the battery is held by sliding on runners to the rail and both the wiring connector at the top and clamp arrangement on the bottom are also attached to the...

E optimised is different to e tuned. On the 36 e optimised is only about adding some strength with thicker metal used in the lowers.....on the air spring side that reduces the overall volume of the air spring which is why set up is different to a normal 36...probably less flexible as well...

I have 2 bikes neither of which have chain guides fitted as standard and never had any issues. They are both Sram Eagle transmissions using steel narrow wide chainrings and the chainline is standard 52mm/ boost. I wonder if the situation most likely to cause a chain to come off the chainring is...

I don't know how the battery is fixed in your bike but I would check the battery connection first since it more likely to be a connection rather than cable issue.