Ah, cool. I thought you meant it was in the shock.
They reduce the air volume which makes the spring more progressive. It affects the last bit of travel. They can be helpful if you find your bottoming out to often. Generally, heavier riders benefit more from them than lighter riders but...
Where were the orange spacers? The volume spacers in the main (positive) chamber are one piece. It clips into the top of the main chamber (at the end where the piggy back is). You get different sizes rather than adding several of the same size.
There's a stroke reducing spacer that's held in...
Same process for the rear really. Set the spring rate first and then add damping to suit what you're riding. I've got a Float X too and there isn't all that much to fiddle with. The blue dial is low speed compression.
The Rise pedals fairly well so I usually only have a couple of clicks from...
Open the HSC and LsC right up (anticlockwise).
Open up the rebound.
Add enough air to get about 25% sag. Don't pay any further attention to sag.
Go ride.
If you use too much travel, add some air. If you don't use enough travel, drop some few PSI at at a time until you're using an...
Yeah, that's a good point.
The charger has a flashy light on it. Once the charger is satisfied that the cells are all full, the light goes static. I can quite often take mine off charge before this and the eTuve app or STride will report 100% even though it's not totally finished.
Battery is...
I just charge mine the day before a ride. After a ride, it sits for a week at whatever level it was when I finished. If you're planning to leave it unused for months then yeah, it's a good idea to charge it to somewhere between 50 and 80% I think but if you're using it regularly then I wouldn't...
Looks good. I'd want something to divert the rain away from the bottom though. Surely it'll find it way under the threshold?
Was that from Lathams? Or somewhere else?
I wouldn't trust anything Muc Off to do anything even close to what it claims to do.
If you really want ceramic coating (wouldn't Invisiframe be better?) then I'd go for something with a proven record from the automotive market.
See, I looked at wooden doors and even cheap stuff from B&Q worked out at several hundred quid. By the time you've got a decent door, frame and hardware, you're not far off a steel door that'll be stronger and need less maintenance.
Bob, it's either technique or setup.
You already said your other bike doesn't have the same issue so that's leaning towards the setup on the Rise.
Try either more air or less rebound to get you in the air easier. You'll need to put less body movement in which should make you more stable at...
Have you serviced the clutch? They need a bit of maintenance once in a while. Water gets in and the pivot axle rusts.
When that happens, the mech doesn't return as quickly as it should leaving the chain slack at the bottom. Mine was so bad that the mech didn't return af all.
Solution was to...
Yikes. That's a new stantion job. It's not just chipped or dented, the whole leg is bent. That can't have been from a rogue rock jumping up.
There are companies who will replace the leg. Depends on the fork as to whether it's worth it or not. You could also buy a new upper assembly but again...
Unless the rest of the garage is insulated, it's probably not going to be all that effective to just insulate the door. I guess it depends on the structure of your garage.
Mine is a detached garage with single skin brickwork and a truss roof. It would need the walls battoning and insulating...
Changing the suspension doesn't mean it's set up correctly.
Rolling to the side in the air is generally because your not square on the bike when you leave the ground. A dropped elbow to either side is enough to get the rotation started.
He's said he wonders if he's pulling up to hard to get...
This was what I was going to suggest when I read the first post.
And then suddenly, without warning by post number 3 it's being suggested that you sell it and but another bike 😂
You don't need to pull the bike into the air. If you're twisting in the air, it's because you weren't balanced on...
Bargain! 😂
Someone, somewhere will probably pay that for the old linkage as I think you need bits of it if you want the Cascade linkage.
I was fortunate enough that the shop I bought it from managed to sort out a new linkage under warranty.
But my point still remains...
And it's a point...
Most of the similar stories I've read seem to be Orbea being slow. New motors etc are down to Madison (in the UK) to sort out as the distributor for Shimano. Obrea specific parts have to come from Orbea and I've heard from a couple of different shops that they're not exactly the quickest.
If...
I'm a little concerned by this too.
They redesigned the linkage on the Rise going from the creaky 3 piece to the newer 2 piece. That's a good thing.
The 2 piece linkage is backwards compatible, this is also good.
They made the 3 pice piece linkage obsolete so you can't buy spares any more...