Search results

Yes it should be, but it is not free everywhere ...

It depends on the dealer.

Because there is an update for the battery and battery was never intended to be updatable with OTA, but only by dealers.

Only for "2019-2021 Fox 34 Stepcast forks" ....

If you look closely you'll see that non-compatibility reffers to the crankset which will clearly not fit on Levo, but everything else should fit (talking about Gen3 Levo) ... better to choose a group without crank: XX Eagle AXS Transmission E-MTB Group (without crank)

I thought you can remove the chainring without removing the spider on all Levos, I have done it multiple times with 32t chainring on my Gen2 Levo ...

I wouldn't completely rely on SRAM UDH bike list, as the photo under Levo is actually a Levo SL ... And I can assure you that UDH does not fit on Gen2 Levos: a hole in the chainstay must be 20mm for UHD, on Gen2 Levos this hole is 15,5mm to allow installation of Specialized S172600001 thru axle...

Gen2 doesn't have UDH.

Have you tried to connect the bike with Mission Control app?

Use something like this and you won't need to drop the motor... https://www.bike24.com/p2114889.html

What was their excuse to not warranty the door? It is a know issue (bad design) ...

I don't understand why would anyone want intentionally limit the functionality of the drivetrain without gaining anything ... Sorry mate, but this is not something worth sharing ... If you don't need/use the 1st gear then you should consider replacing front chainring with a bigger one ...

Any your point is?

I came across a new version of the motor-to-battery cable (is this v4 or v5 already?) for Gen2 Levos and Kenevos MY20-22, anyone already tried it? Latest now comes with a flat cable (just like on Gen3) and better cable-to-connector inlets, looks like issues with falling apart cable might be...

Actually It's designed for MTB, after more than a year of abuse I found it very sturdy and reliable. I had to replace bent hanger twice, but derailleur still shifts snappy just as on day one ...

But it seems that your steerer tube is already a bit too short, why would you want to cut it even more? I'm sure LBS will have the right spacers to sort you out...

Try if it works without spacer on the top. Or else find 15mm spacer for below the stem and put 5mm spacer on the top, but this way you will lower the stem/handlebar for 5mm ...

Then you'll need a new/different spacer kit. Steering tube should be about 2-3mm below the upper end of the spacer (or from the upper stem edge, if you have no spacer on the top) before you tighten everything up. After you tighten the stem (to properly preload the headset bearing) there will be...

What 1mm gap are you talking about? Can you show it with photo? SWAT tool might need a bit elevation above the stem so that rotation of its door won't collide with the stem itself, but that depends more on the stem shape ... But it is always better to have steering tube few mm above the stem and...