Except it is a "1 1/8" straight steerer. What you need is where the single part of the fork goes into the frame, the top fits into 1 1/8", and the bottom is wider and fits into 1.5"; you need a tapered steerer, not a straight steerer. The mix you need does not seem that common.
If you think...
is that what an "overdrive" steerer is? So the 1 1/8 straight steerer he is considering won't be appropriate? Ahh, just found this "while the mountain version features 1 1/8-inch top and 1 1/2-inch bottom bearings" re overdrive. So a straight 1 1/8 steerer won't work.
I'm surprised - I just assumed Maydena was straight up and down :ROFLMAO:, but there are some blues and greens there according to trail forks! Derby is awesome for all riding standards - picturesque and interesting tracks. If you live in Hobart there are green tracks at Meehan and from Glenorchy...
You need to know what you have first then so that you can get something that will work with your wheel and rotor. For example you may need to also buy an adaptor for your rotor size, which is no big issue. Your fork possibly already has an adapter, or it natively fits a 180mm rotor? Then there...
You have a fairly budget bike, and it's a hardtail. Why do you want to upgrade the forks?
My bike is budget, and has forks that many dislike (rockshox gold 35rl). I'm not a good enough rider to know. I keep everything serviced and maintained and as well set up for me as I can - knowledge is one...
As a few have said, I find stretching works. Adductor stretch helps you get on and off the bike, hamstring stretch like the ballet dancers do (foot on the kitchen bench, lean upper body over your straight horizontal leg), and probably the most helpful stretch is the standing hamstring stretch...
I've got a mullet - but I rarely lock up the rear. Where I am now, I rode down a rock slab and the rear skitted a bit :rolleyes: I made a mental note to lay on the front much more next time - the luxury of grip :) It seems that most folk go through rear pads before front pads - well according...
I understand most of the accepted theory - for mtb I tend to disagree with this, much of the time. On awesome rock slab or on the road, front brake is king. Where I ride it is mostly loose over hard and steep up or down, so the rear gets used most. I usually drop my bum hard toward the back...
I'm up to 2,200 kms; same chain. I've been using wax though, which has made a profound difference as far as chain stretch goes. I don't think wax is any good when it's wet. I've ridden it all winter with light mud and some water on track. I mostly use eco too - lots of climbing and descending -...