Wheel wobble

[EMTBSEAN]

Hi there guys, I have a problem with my wheels, I noticed after my last ride that both of my wheels have some sideways wobble when I take hold of the tyre, I removed the front wheel and both of the end caps are quite loose, I removed the back wheel but there seems to be no obvious play in the axle but when it’s on the bike again there is sideways wobble, my bike is the 2020 E150rs with WTB wheels and Whyte hubs if that’s any help please, any help would be very much appreciated as I have no idea what could be wrong with my bike

 

[Tonytank]

Check movement of rear triangle.
My Lbs have informed me that all my frame bearings are fooked after 6 months of riding. And the rear caliper cracked.
Given that i havent abused the bike, not used a pressure washer and just used a brush and hot water to clean then its very disappointing that a bike supposedly designed for british conditions cant last a year without a bearing replacement.
And really im pretty mechanically sympathetic., currently awaiting whytes response on warranty. The main pivot they will honour, dont know about the rest.
So have a look at your bearings and check movement

 

[Mikerb]

Front wheel could be just insufficient torque on the through axle. Rear could be pivot bearings but keep in mind you can apply far greater force on the axle by using the wheel than you can just by hand on the axle itself. Try to determine whether the play you can see when using the wheel is lateral/side to side or rocking. Rocking would suggest bearings either in the hub or freehub, or the rear triangle. Lateral/side to side play would suggest the axle is not properly secured in the hub. I dont know the exact set up on your bike but assuming it is sealed bearings the non drive side would normally have a cone type nut with locknut. Either way it would be worth stripping the cassette/freehub/axle from the rear hub, checking the bearings.............if they feel OK clean and regrease and rebuild the hub.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I’m working tomorrow and Thursday but Friday I will have a good look at it and let you know what I find ?

 

[steve_sordy]

I don't have a Whyte, but have your axles come loose? I have had problems with them coming loose despite applying the correct torque with a torque wrench. Applying some Loctite Blue fixed that.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

I don’t think so Steve, it’s the end caps on the front wheel that seem loose, someone on the Whyte Facebook page said it was the wheel bearings that are knackered in a message to another person with the same problem but mine don’t feel knackered, they feel smooth and when I rotate them there’s no gritty horrible feeling that’s characteristic of knackered bearings, I’ll have a look at it tomorrow when I’ve got more time, thanks for your help though Steve ?

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Just finished fitting a new chain and inner shifter cable and I am pretty sure it’s the front wheel bearings that are on their way out and the bearing caps too, I’m gonna get in touch with Whyte and ask them what bearings I need and if they can supply me with the end caps and if I need any Specialized tools for the job

 

[steve_sordy]

Just finished fitting a new chain and inner shifter cable and I am pretty sure it’s the front wheel bearings that are on their way out and the bearing caps too, I’m gonna get in touch with Whyte and ask them what bearings I need and if they can supply me with the end caps and if I need any Specialized tools for the job

Is it too late for a warranty claim? Whyte are pretty good. I consider wheel bearings as a consumable item, so I believe you may be pushing your luck if your bike is older than one year.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Yeah I thought of that too Steve but it’s just over a year old, 1 year and 1 month to be exact, oh well I can’t complain because they have been great with me, I certainly wouldn’t think of another brand when I’m in the market for another Emtb

 

[Mikerb]

The number ref for the bearing is usually stamped on the side of the bearing and are easily ordered from a variety of sources online. Changing front wheel bearings is often pretty simple. Remove the end caps and you will be left with the hub, a bearing at each end and possibly a spacer tube between the bearings. The bearings can be drifted out and new ones carefully tapped back in using a suitable sized drift like a socket.
The bearing number will be something like 6902. Any numbers/letters after the main 4 digit number refer to the seals. You need 2 RS or similar.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Nice one mate thanks for that, I’ll try and remove the end caps without destroying them this weekend, and as a precautionary measure I think I’m going to contact Whyte to see if they have any end caps I could buy, I don’t want to be caught with my trousers down so-to-speak ?

 

[EMTBSEAN]

I sent a message to Whyte bikes on Tuesday explaining the issue with my wheels and yesterday (Wednesday) I got this reply explaining the bearing types, I can’t fault them for quick response and help, anyway here’s a copy of the message

The Whyte E-150 RS V1 requires 2 x 6903 bearings for the rear hub shell and 2 x 18307 bearings for the front hub shell.
The end caps that you are referring to are the 31mm torque caps, they simply fit over the hub end caps and are held on with a rubber O ring, they increase the end cap size to fit the RockShox forks, these can be removed and refitted without issue.

 

[Snrbrtsn]

I just replaced front wheel bearings on my 909 today!

Relatively straight forward & used the same 18307 bearings & adopted the “I have no specialised tool technique! “
Tools required, Hammer, long punch, plumbers pliers, a couple of rags and torx bits to remove disc & assembly grease


Remove wheel, remove disc.
using a cloth, place over end caps and a pair of sized plumbers pliers with light pressure wiggle and pull of the end caps
Balance wheel on a roll of insulation tape
Using a block of soft wood hammer out the axle spacer
The spacer and lower bearing will be released
Flip the wheel over
With the use of a punch, drive the bearing out on opposite sides and work around circumference

Clean up all parts and remove old grease
The Bearings can be bought - I paid £5 / bearing in UK - you need 2 (I bought from eBay & LBS so have a spare set)

Note - keep the old bearings

To install
lubricate the spacer with a smear of grease and place on bearing and offer to wheel housing
Holding the two flip and place on a block of wood
Offer the opposite Bearing to Spacer then using the old bearing lay over
gentle drive and chap into housing - remove old bearing
Flip the wheel over and ensure the bearing is aligned with spacer and wheel housing
Lay the old bearing on top and gently tap with hammer noting you will need to use x2 old bearing to chap home
Flip the wheel and repeat to ensure both bearings are fully seated

Check the spacer for free lateral movement - there shouldn’t be
Check the spacer is free rotating

Only after this consider discarding old bearings

Ensure clean, lubricate with a smear of grease, then re install the end caps

Trial fit the wheel and install the maxle - I smear grease lightly on maxle and clean residual
Check free rotating and side movement

Once happy, remove wheel install Disc then reinstall wheel

All in the removal and clean took 15 Mins
The Ebay search took 10mins and journey to LBS took 40mins
The refit was 10mins

Hopefully the longevity will be 2years though in my case the bike is up for sale as soon as the E arrives

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Thanks for taking the time to type out the removal and install of the bearings and sorry for the late reply to it, I have been snowed under with work and only just read this post, I bought my bearings from City seals and bearings in Sheffield today and great quality they are too, hopefully one night this week I’ll get them fitted, thanks again Snrbrtsn ?

 

[EMTBSEAN]

Well today I tried to change my wheel bearings without success, two reasons for this,
1. the 18307 bearings for the front wheel that Whyte told me to buy are the wrong ones, they are indeed 6902 bearings.
2. The front bearings on the WTB wheels have the inner sleeve which is flush with the inner race of the bearings so I’m gonna need blind bearing puller.
Fortunately the bearings I needed were available from City seals and bearings in Sheffield so I nipped back and swapped the wrong bearings for the correct bearings, the bearing puller is on its way via eBay, bummer that I’m not gonna get out tomorrow to try out my new Revgrips but when the puller arrives this week I’ll crack on and get my bike sorted for next weekend ?

 

[Mikerb]

you do not need a blind puller. The sleeve between the bearings is a smaller diameter than the hub and can be pushed to one side giving access to the bearing on one side then the other to drift out. The sleeve may be reluctant to move if it is jammed between the bearings but a bit of WD 40 and leverage with the plastic handle end of a screwdriver ( or similar non metallic lever) will move it. Apply leverage to the middle of the sleeve not the far end. If you lever the far end you tend to tip the sleeve rather than move it sideways.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

I’ve tried to move it mate but it won’t shift, I drowned it lubricant but I gave up in case I damaged it, the tool I bought cost me £12, I thought it better to use the correct thing rather than run the risk of damaging my wheel, when I look down the inside of the wheel the inside of the bearings it is totally flush with the sleeve, not so much as the tiniest hint of a lip to get any kind of tool at the back of the bearings