What mods and alterations to personalise you emtb?

[Eckythump]

So what has everyone done to their emtb’s To personalise them to suit the riding they do?
Already seen someone swapped the rear suspension on their 2017 Levo to 2018 to raise the B.B. along with increasing front travel with a longer air shaft.

Me, I swapped the 3” tyres supplied with the bike for more durable 2.8” Maxxis ones.
Shorter cranks for more ground clearence. I put on a shorter stem and carbon bars swapped from my old analogue bike along with the X01 chainset.
Fitted a OneUp Components EDC multitool in the steerer with a CO2 canister screwed on the bottom. I have one of their hand pumps which I either carry in my pack or have attached to my water bottle mount. This carries a second CO2 canister in the handle and the valve end of the pump can be removed to use with the canisters to reseat a tubeless tyre if you manage to pop one off the rim.
A Mudhugger mudguard graces the front fork to stop all the crud being thrown up in my face and I chopped up an old tyre to make a downtube guard as plus size tyre seem to be pretty good at flicking up rocks (I have a dent to prove it!).

So what you got to share?

 

[EddieJ]

Mudguard wise, my preferred choice has always been the RRP Neo Guard. It does everything that I want from a mudguard, and also looks very unobtrusive.

The latest bike a KTM Fogo, runs inverted forks, the only option is to use a raised MX style mudguard, and there is no way that I'm ever going to take that route, but oddly there has never really been that much mud or water thrown up into my face, so I'm not overly concerned about things.

In respect of the Fogo, the only changes from OE spec have been as folows.

The change to a tubeless set up.

The fitting of clipless pedals instead of flats.

The change from a KS dropper seat post to a Reverb. The only reason being that I have a couple of them knocking about about.

The fitting of Purion, but I'm changing that again this week to an updated Purion that the big B company have kindly given me.

And finally the fitting and use of a Magicshine Eagle F3, which I am currently reviewing. I ride roughly three nights a week, all of which is off road, and I'm loving every second of using this light.

If I keep the Fogo for any length of time, which may or may not happen, as it is expected to go back in March, then I shall bin the SRAM EX1 groupset, in favour of a Shimano XT/XTR groupset. SRAM components have always proved to be too problematic for my use, where as Shimano has always proved to be 100% reliable and problem free.

 

[Eckythump]

Upside down forks present a problem. When I ran a lefty I used to put a Crud Catcher on the downtube but it did nothing to stop the spray that flies forward and you ride back into that a fork bra or decent mudguard stops.

 

[Japuserid]

Great thread, this got me thinking

Not really taken many pic's, but I found this one of when it was new, early 2016.

Since then I think I have replaced or upgraded almost everything

Geometry: Came as 67 Degree head angle, now at 65 by adding 10mm of travel to the pikes (now 160mm) and fitting some offset shock bushings to the shock.

Suspension: Added to stroke and fitted the "Luftkappe" mod and Push seals, for better support and small bump compliance . Upgraded to a Monarch Plus for much improved rear end support and damping.

Brakes: These were scary poor from new it was either invest in new brakes or up my life insurance, First went to M8000 Front and Back, better, a lot better, then added a four pot Saint caliper upfront, but kept the 8000 lever assembly and now have awesome power with nice modulation using 200mm Ice tech Rotors and Uberbike's Race matrix coumpound pads.

Wheels: Added a Stans Flow Mk 3 wheel-set, quite early on and what a difference they made, first on my list of money well spent. Binned the Maxles for simple straight through axle's, no more lever arms sticking out to get knocked loose.

Seat post: Added a Reverb stealth and later added the 1x Remote, far more consistent feel and easy to operate.

Saddle: Lots of saddles have been tried and tested but think I have decided at last that I am a Fabic Scoop Radius type of guy, funny the least expensive option I tried as it turned out.

Handlebars: Several sets of bars with various bends ans rises, finally settling on Carbon Fatmax with 30mm rise, Carbon bars, with a set of Imprint grips, bars and grips are second on my list of money well spent.

Stems, a few of them, shorter and ever higher eventually did it. Std headset lasted no time replaced with a Hope set, these have been superb almost fit and forget!

Bearings: Factory supplied bearings never have enough grease in them so replaced every bearing with top quality units and after removing the seals and packing each full of waterproof grease.

Tyres: Tried quite a few different brands, and what I have found is that its not worth trying to save weight on an E-bike, unless you enjoy fixing punctures. Now I always buy the strongest carcass with generally the softest compound options available, and no matter what people might tell you, wire beeded tyres run perfectly well tubeless.

Chains: The Bosch unit really likes to consume chains any where between 350 and 500 miles. So had to buy a few chains and the best of these has been the XTR HG 901 Sil tec. I always replace the chain at the first sign of wear (0.75 or slightly before) and so consequently the cassette is still the original after 2000 miles.

What else, upgraded the XT shifter to XTR, nice but not essential and finally added a set of AVS Hand guards, not everyone's cup of tea, but work great. 165mm Miranda Pedal cranks down from 170mm, with saint flat pedals.

The Irony is I finally have it as I want it and now it's time to sell it, new bike on order and so, to some people, I guess the above might sound a bit excessive but I can honestly to say, that for me, that its been a huge part of the overall pleasure of owning the bike, and really have enjoyed working on it, nearly as much as I have riding it.

I must get a new pic of the bike, as it is now, next time i'm out.

 

[Eckythump]

Luftkappes are great, I have them on my E & regular bike. I like the MRP ramp control too but I had to remove the one I had in my Wrecker when I upped the fork to 170mm.
Wish I could run a 1x type dropper lever on my ebike but it would conflict with the Shimano assist level trigger. Maybe I could run one on the top of the bars?

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

@Japuserid Nice work on the upgrades. And isn’t it always the way - get the bike how you want and then onto another ‘challenge’

Is that the Renthal Fat Bar that you got? I have always liked them, just for the added bling

 

[Japuserid]

Hey Ecky!

Funny you should mention that

Just ordered a new bike with the Shimano package and I have been looking into how I can retain the 1X remote.

What I have found out is.........Shimano E6000 uses a switch, very similar to the new Brose/Specialized unit for 2018..............see link below

The switch is interchangeable with E 8000, but before I ordered one I wanted to try the new bike in factory trim..............

My thinking is this.

The Shimano trail mode is fully adaptive like the Bosch E-mtb ( who as I understand it, got the idea from Shimano in the first place.) If that is the case then I cant see that you would need to be shifting modes very often? Eco to transfer, Trail off-road and the occasional trip to Boost for the odd real steep climbs ?

If so ? I think the 1x would be of far more benefit and usefulness fitted to the bars with the E 6000 switch.

Love to hear your thoughts ?

Buy Shimano SW-E6000 Steps Switch Compatible With SEIS - With Cord Bands A x2 - B x1 at Tredz Bikes. £39.99 with free UK delivery

 

[Japuserid]

@Japuserid Nice work on the upgrades. And isn’t it always the way - get the bike how you want and then onto another ‘challenge’

Is that the Renthal Fat Bar that you got? I have always liked them, just for the added bling

Hey Rob

Yes they do look nice, I had the Alloy version first and then got the Carbon ones, the Carbon bars are keepers and will moving over to the new bike, they look good and are noticeably more comfortable on you hands after a few hours of riding.

 

[Eckythump]

The E6000 switch sounds an interesting solution.
You are right unless you are trying to conserve the maximum amount of battery or need the pedal kicks from boost trying to do a 'trials' type climb on chunky rocks you spend all your time in trail. It is uncanny how it knows the level of assist to suit your needs. As you say the App can now be used to tweak the overall levels of assistance available. The App isn't the most intuitive interface in the world but gets the job done.

 

[Eckythump]

Hey Rob

Yes they do look nice, I had the Alloy version first and then got the Carbon ones, the Carbon bars are keepers and will moving over to the new bike, they look good and are noticeably more comfortable on you hands after a few hours of riding.

I have a set of the 35mm Fatbar Lites and find them a bit stiff, think I may end up swapping them out for 31.8mm.

 

[Japuserid]

Luftkappes are great, I have them on my E & regular bike. I like the MRP ramp control too but I had to remove the one I had in my Wrecker when I upped the fork to 170mm.
Wish I could run a 1x type dropper lever on my ebike but it would conflict with the Shimano assist level trigger. Maybe I could run one on the top of the bars?

MRP ramp control

I looked into this a little, great Idea, way better than tokens. If I remember it was an "either or" thing with the Luftkappe and MRP, as both would not fit together in a 2016 160 Pike.

My new bike has a 2018 160mm Lyric and I believe that has a larger negative air chamber as standard now , so does not need the Luftkappe kit.

The MRP ramp control is a perfect solution to swapping out tokens all the time.

So would you recommend it?

Got to make setting up the forks way easier and help to fine tune for different conditions a doddle?

 

[Eckythump]

I think it is only the Pike that has changed internally for 2018. Calling them all Debonaire is a marketing thing I understand. The larger negative chambers were already there on the Lyrik & Yari.
You can run a MRP on Lyrik/Yari up to & including 160mm travel. From 170mm there is physical interference.
I like the MRP more for its ability to behave like fewer tokens when you are rattling over roots & rocks but still ramp up when needed on the big hits and jumps. The adjustability is a secondary bonus to me.
The MRP is still in my ebike, I just have to do some testing to see whether 170mm of travel or the MRP are more valuable on my clockwork bike.
So long story short, yes, I recommend it.

 

[Japuserid]

Mudguard wise, my preferred choice has always been the RRP Neo Guard. It does everything that I want from a mudguard, and also looks very unobtrusive.

The latest bike a KTM Fogo, runs inverted forks, the only option is to use a raised MX style mudguard, and there is no way that I'm ever going to take that route, but oddly there has never really been that much mud or water thrown up into my face, so I'm not overly concerned about things.

In respect of the Fogo, the only changes from OE spec have been as folows.

The change to a tubeless set up.

The fitting of clipless pedals instead of flats.

The change from a KS dropper seat post to a Reverb. The only reason being that I have a couple of them knocking about about.

The fitting of Purion, but I'm changing that again this week to an updated Purion that the big B company have kindly given me.

And finally the fitting and use of a Magicshine Eagle F3, which I am currently reviewing. I ride roughly three nights a week, all of which is off road, and I'm loving every second of using this light.

If I keep the Fogo for any length of time, which may or may not happen, as it is expected to go back in March, then I shall bin the SRAM EX1 groupset, in favour of a Shimano XT/XTR groupset. SRAM components have always proved to be too problematic for my use, where as Shimano has always proved to be 100% reliable and problem free.

Hey Eddie

EX1 groupset you mention changing it to XT?

Reason I'm asking is my new bike has the Sram EX1 as OEM.

I too am a big fan of XT, great product that has worked faultlessly for me, but I quite fancied the 8 speed concept, seems makes a lot of sense?

As you have had both can you tell me, what are your reasons for changing it ?

Is it because of the Hideous cost compared to XT ? especially given the conditions you have to ride in, acidic grinding paste that must be very heavy on transmission parts

Or have you had other issues ?

Regards

Jeff

 

[EddieJ]

Hi Jeff, sorry, I should really have expanded up my reply.

I can't fault the system in smoothness of operation under load, and it is a pleasure to use in operation, but at the risk of contradicting my self, I there isn't a great deal that I really like about it.

I have found that every SRAM groupset that I have ever owned causes me issues when riding on my local terrain.

Much of where I ride often has undergrowth, grass, bracken and twigs to contend with. The design of the cassette and jockey wheels, mean that it is a constant battle to keep them free and running smoothly. The system is also very poor when used in heavy mud conditions, as the excessively large holes/design pattern soon fill with mud, and don't seem to have the ability to clear. I have never had a single issue in either respect when running a Shimano set up, and for two years I was running two bikes, one with SRAM and one with Shimano, so it was very easy to compare like for like.

I'm also not a fan of the rear mech and how it operates, but that is just a personal choice, and has no bearing upon the system. I feel quite happy to strip and fully rebuild any Shimano rear mech, but for some reason can't gel in the same way with pulling down the EX1 rear mech. The cage is also pretty soft, and can easily be bent out of shape.

Cost wise, whilst I had considered that to be a downside when I took delivery of the bike, I haven't to date found durability to be an issue. I think that it was you that said that you change chains frequently, and I am another that rotates and changes my chains frequently, which goes a long way to reducing wear and tear on the cassette. My bikes do suffer a harsh life, but I never neglect maintenance or cleaning.

I will say that I'm also not a fan of the gear ratios, as the jump between ratios is quite high. Whilst the ratios would be perfect for the alps, I have yet to really find anything UK riding wise, that can't be dealt with by a 42t or even a 36t. That said, it makes riidng with no assist a viable option, not that I'd want to.

I would add, that this is just my experience, and I'm sure that others might find the opposite.

 

[Japuserid]

Hi Jeff, sorry, I should really have expanded up my reply.

I can't fault the system in smoothness of operation under load, and it is a pleasure to use in operation, but at the risk of contradicting my self, I there isn't a great deal that I really like about it.

I have found that every SRAM groupset that I have ever owned causes me issues when riding on my local terrain.

Much of where I ride often has undergrowth, grass, bracken and twigs to contend with. The design of the cassette and jockey wheels, mean that it is a constant battle to keep them free and running smoothly. The system is also very poor when used in heavy mud conditions, as the excessively large holes/design pattern soon fill with mud, and don't seem to have the ability to clear. I have never had a single issue in either respect when running a Shimano set up, and for two years I was running two bikes, one with SRAM and one with Shimano, so it was very easy to compare like for like.

I'm also not a fan of the rear mech and how it operates, but that is just a personal choice, and has no bearing upon the system. I feel quite happy to strip and fully rebuild any Shimano rear mech, but for some reason can't gel in the same way with pulling down the EX1 rear mech. The cage is also pretty soft, and can easily be bent out of shape.

Cost wise, whilst I had considered that to be a downside when I took delivery of the bike, I haven't to date found durability to be an issue. I think that it was you that said that you change chains frequently, and I am another that rotates and changes my chains frequently, which goes a long way to reducing wear and tear on the cassette. My bikes do suffer a harsh life, but I never neglect maintenance or cleaning.

I will say that I'm also not a fan of the gear ratios, as the jump between ratios is quite high. Whilst the ratios would be perfect for the alps, I have yet to really find anything UK riding wise, that can't be dealt with by a 42t or even a 36t. That said, it makes riidng with no assist a viable option, not that I'd want to.

Thanks Eddie

You confirmed a lot of things I have read from other sources, thankfully the going down here is no where near as claggy as what you have to contend with
But I have heard the EX1 derailleur is a very chocolate like think I will get some spares in now. Chains are cheap at least !

I agree 48 teeth is well OTT, but if it gives me too much grief it won't be the end of the world to swap it over to XT.

Appreciate your time, very helpful

 

[Eckythump]

I will say that I'm also not a fan of the gear ratios, as the jump between ratios is quite high. Whilst the ratios would be perfect for the alps, I have yet to really find anything UK riding wise, that can't be dealt with by a 42t or even a 36t. That said, it makes riidng with no assist a viable option, not that I'd want to.

Do you find the overall range too high or the individual steps between gears? Wonder if it could be tuned ok with front rings.
The reduced number of gears with EX1 has a lot of appeal along with the heavy duty chain and cluster.

 

[Japuserid]

Do you find the overall range too high or the individual steps between gears? Wonder if it could be tuned ok with front rings.
The reduced number of gears with EX1 has a lot of appeal along with the heavy duty chain and cluster.

Hi Ecky

I agree, it does have appeal, at least in theory.

As you say a larger 38 tooth front chain ring, might help offset the very large 48 tooth rear, but as I've not even got mine yet I think I will wait to try it first

Your Jam is Eagle 12 speed ?

 

[Eckythump]

No, 11 speed not eagle.
There are times when I have been trying to eek out the battery in eco where a 48 granny ring would have been useful.
I guess a bigger front ring would just increase the spacing between gears and I don’t have a need for a higher top speed either.

 

[EddieJ]

Do you find the overall range too high or the individual steps between gears? Wonder if it could be tuned ok with front rings.
The reduced number of gears with EX1 has a lot of appeal along with the heavy duty chain and cluster.

The step between the gears is too great, or at least for my use.

I find my self for example being in a gear that is too high for a given situation, so you change down, only to find the gear too low and you spin out.
Using the Bosch CX Drive unit, I run a 16t front, but that is only because the bike came fitted with it. Normally I'd run a 15t

Throwing things out even further, I also actually prefer the Performance Line to the CX Line for UK riding use. I find that I don't require the additional torque afforded by the CX, and would prefer to be able to tune the torque, to enable greater range. When riding, in the Alps, I prefer the extra torque that is available with the CX.

 

[Eckythump]

Think I am going to have to try and find a demo bike with an EX1/E8000 combo to have a go on.

 

[Doomanic]

All I've done to the Lekky Trekky so far is fit a front mudguard from Decathlon and put cable ties through the Mino Links in case they work loose. It's still in High setting as it works so well as it is.

I need some sort of rear guard, has anyone fitted a Mudhugger rear guard like THIS to a bike with plus size tyres?

 

[Japuserid]

Pretty sure that's what my mate Kernow uses on his 29er, he has just ordered one for his new e-Mtb that has plus tyres, if it is that one, he swears by them.

Hang on he sent me a link.......

Buy Mudhugger Rear 29er Mudguard at Tredz Bikes. £27.50 with free UK delivery

looks like the same thing different shop?

 

[Doomanic]

Yeah, looks like it.

 

[EddieJ]

The downside of that design of mudguard is that it creates a trap for mud and twigs to collect at the seat stay area.

I'm not a fan of mudguards, but made my own version of the one that you have linked to, as I felt that it had a couple of design issues.
Firtsly it mounts to the inner face of the seat stay, not the outer. Instantly there is about 20mm of mud clearance lost.
Secondly, it doesn't mount/ wrap around the rear of the seat stay, so strength is lost.

Mine obviously wasn't by any means pretty, but it was certainly more functional. It mounted on the outer face, and also wrapped around the rear.

I would further add, that if you going to mount one, add some helitape or similar first to protect the frame.

From this photo, you can see what I mean about the seat stay area becoming a place to trap mud.

The Scud Launcher as it became known! The clever thing about this design, was that the last 100mm or so where it flips down, could be quickly removed. A later mod, was to mount an old Topeak front guard behind the seat stay, so protecting the rear shock area.

 

[Japuserid]

No, 11 speed not eagle.
There are times when I have been trying to eek out the battery in eco where a 48 granny ring would have been useful.
I guess a bigger front ring would just increase the spacing between gears and I don’t have a need for a higher top speed either.

Hey Ecky

I think I might be missing something here?

You said, in previous post .........the individual steps between gears? Wonder if it could be tuned ok with front rings?

As far as I can make out, and hopefully this is the bit I'm missing, there are only two chain ring options available 34T or 38T?

Or are you saying that the spider on the E8000, (SM-CRE 80) the actual chainring can be unbolted / removed and that it will accept other size chain rings?

 

[Eckythump]

Just a regular 104BCD ring. Mine has a 34 tooth, don't think I could put a smaller one on my bike as the chain all but rubs the chainstay as it is. Could take a much bigger ring though if that is your thing.

Excuse the crud, I do look after my bikes honest!! In fact now the snow is melting and the hose pipe has thawed out I will sort it this avo....

There are a few spots I ride where I could do with a lower gear. Eddy said he was running a 16t on Bosch so in effect a 32t ring which suggests I would find the jump between gears even worse than he does on EX1 with my 34t.
The only drive train problem I have had was smashing a jockey wheel when I jumped too many gears in one go which is almost a necessity ebiking on an 11spd cassette. I replaced the SRAM plastic jockey wheels with Hope 12t alloy ones and am a bit more careful changing gears so haven’t had a repeat. The 48t granny gear, fewer cogs and thicker side plate chain sound quite appealing but it is no good if you are always in the wrong gear.

 

[Japuserid]

Just a regular 104BCD ring. Mine has a 34 tooth, don't think I could put a smaller one on my bike as the chain all but rubs the chainstay as it is. Could take a much bigger ring though if that is your thing.
View attachment 113
Excuse the crud, I do look after my bikes honest!! In fact now the snow is melting and the hose pipe has thawed out I will sort it this avo....

There are a few spots I ride where I could do with a lower gear. Eddy said he was running a 16t on Bosch so in effect a 32t ring which suggests I would find the jump between gears even worse than he does on EX1 with my 34t.
The only drive train problem I have had was smashing a jockey wheel when I jumped too many gears in one go which is almost a necessity ebiking on an 11spd cassette. I replaced the SRAM plastic jockey wheels with Hope 12t alloy ones and am a bit more careful changing gears so haven’t had a repeat. The 48t granny gear, fewer cogs and thicker side plate chain sound quite appealing but it is no good if you are always in the wrong gear.

Thanks Ecky great pic, I can see it now, clear as day

I currently run a Bosch with 11-42 and 17 front.......it came with a 15 and then I tried 16 and now settled on the 17. We have a few fairly steep climbs locally and I find them no problem at all, but mostly its fairly open and reasonably flowy. Did all of Cwymcarn with the 17 again no issue's.

So I can only imagine that the EX1's 48t rear as being way to low for what I need, but I guess, as I think, Eddie or you pointed out, if we had a motor out it we might be very glad of the 48T to help get home.

I think you have to live with it for a while, most things I have read suggest the testers took a while to get into the larger steps between gears but after time came to really like it.

I ordered my new bike, with the EX1 in the hope that it would save so much multiple shifting all the time, I'm sure the basic idea, less is more, on an Emtb is right. And i don't think it will be too long before Sram or whoever produce an 11-42 Cassette to just shorten a few of the gaps, after all EX1 is still fairly new.

 

[Eckythump]

It's just a crock it costs more than a GX Eagle chainset with 4 fewer gears!?

 

[EddieJ]

The Bosch system multiplies by 2.5, so my current 16t is the equivalent of a 40t

 

[Japuserid]

The Bosch system multiplies by 2.5, so my current 16t is the equivalent of a 40t

Thanks Eddie,

My current gearing, therefore with 17 x 2.5 = 42.5

So is equal to 11-42 rear 42 front

My new bike has 11-48 rear 34 front, I think I will be looking for walls to climb with that

Better start looking into front chain ring options