What is this lever? And what does it do?

[Agamemnon]

Hi. Saw this whilst I was putting on some chain lube, what is is and what does it do? What is open/closed, etc. what is the riding position?

Was applying some chain lube and saw that.

Btw, I have Squirt Dry Lube and Rock and Roll lube in my possession—for emtb’s what the best choice? I realize it like a Coke vs Pepsi question, but am wondering is there a ??
(Greatest of all time) lube for emtb chains

As always,
Thanks

 

[Will Hesch]

It probably locks your derailler in the up/slack-chain position which makes removing the rear wheel easier. Try just moving the derailler up and then pushing the lever.

 

[slippery pete]

It is a clutch. On = up. Stops the chain falling off at the front chainring

 

[MinusPrevious]

Yeah, its the clutch release. When removing the rear wheel, always unlock it & will make wheel removal & installation easier

 

[R120]

 

[steve_sordy]

Yep, its a proper clutch, not just a device to hold the mech open while removing the wheel.

The clutch is a friction device that helps prevent the lower strand from bouncing up and down when traversing bumpy ground. The loop of chain that can develop can be big enough for the chain to come clean off the front ring. But disengage it when removing the wheel, it will be a lot easier.

Some people don't like that there is a slight increase in thumb pressure when shifting to larger rings. It is very slight, and they can always switch it off if they want, but some clutches are adjustable. Shimano only I think, (based upon my Shimano one being adjustable and my Sram one not) Happy to be corrected.

 

[Agamemnon]

Thanks all. Good info.

 

[Dan63]

No need to turn it on. The chain guide and the narrow/wide chain ring isn't letting that chain go anywhere at all.
Definitely don't want to leave it on, it stops the chain growing by limiting the derailleur from extending. Don't down shift into the bigger cogs with it on as you will be fighting it.

 

[Mcharza]

No need to turn it on. The chain guide and the narrow/wide chain ring isn't letting that chain go anywhere at all.
Definitely don't want to leave it on, it stops the chain growing by limiting the derailleur from extending. Don't down shift into the bigger cogs with it on as you will be fighting it.

I totally disagree. That's why the switch is made to prevent the chain from falling off or slapping .So keepit always on when riding.
It has not been developed without reason.

 

[Zimmerframe]

I might be wrong, but I thought as a general rule of thumb, you just leave it on. It stops the derailleur slapping back and forwards on it's spring. You only use it/turn it off/lock the derailleur forwards (depending on type) when you want to work on the chain/remove the wheel - so it's more a maintenance switch.

For some reason my last bike's derailleur didn't have a clutch, not sure if they ran out when they were assembling them, someone picked up the wrong one or if the guy in the bike shop swapped it out with another bike. Either way, at first it wasn't a problem.. Once I got faster, pretty much as soon as you started going over 30kph on anything gnarly downhill and it was chain off - every time. So changed to one with a clutch, problem solved. Yes, it does require a tiny bit more thumb pressure to change gear, but it's not like your thumb gets tired from it or you have to spend a few hours on the thumb machine at the gym every few days

 

[Dan63]

Well now i know the reason why everyone is tearing through chains and cassettes so quickly. 900km and my cassette looks like new

 

[Zimmerframe]

Well now i know the reason why everyone is tearing through chains and cassettes so quickly. 900km and my cassette looks like new

The amount of force put on the chain and cassette from pedalling and turning the front chain ring is massive compared to the force of the derailleur spring tensioning it at the bottom.

The clutch doesn't add to that, it just damps it so the chain isn't slapping about. It's slightly harder to change gear because you're also pulling against the force of a damper.

(that's my interpretation of it anyway, which might be total bollox )

My Kenevo has 900k on now and the cassette still looks new, despite some awful gear changes in the early days whilst I adjusted to the different feel/reaction of the SRAM over the Shimano and change to brose from E8000.

@Christian 's has 2000k on and the mans a maniac I'm sure there are plenty of others with far higher.

 

[steve_sordy]

Well now i know the reason why everyone is tearing through chains and cassettes so quickly. 900km and my cassette looks like new

My clutch has stayed on and I've done 1000 miles (1600km) and my cassette also looks great. My chain extension is 0.4% (measured with a vernier caliper). All original equipment.

I suspect that chain & gear wear, good or bad, has little to do with whether the clutch is engaged or not. I do believe however that it has much to do with where you ride, how you clean & lube the bike, and how you change gear.

 

[kendo]

Hi. Saw this whilst I was putting on some chain lube, what is is and what does it do? What is open/closed, etc. what is the riding position?

Was applying some chain lube and saw that.

Btw, I have Squirt Dry Lube and Rock and Roll lube in my possession—for emtb’s what the best choice? I realize it like a Coke vs Pepsi question, but am wondering is there a ??
(Greatest of all time) lube for emtb chains

As always,
Thanks

View attachment 22604

I see you got loads of replies and yes it is a clutch to help keep the chain on when on bouncy rough terrain...importantly it is adjustable dependant on how much tension you want...

 

[SiDobsFig]

Keep Clutch on when riding. Off, when removing the wheel.

Great piece of kit. Saves you getting to the bottom of a quick rocky downhill and then cracking your nuts ( or crutch for the ladies) or gouging your shin/ankle on the peddle when attempting to pedal with no chain on ?.

Si