R120, what model are the endura trousers? How do you find them
Vitus E-Sommet VR
- Thread starter Iain at the back
- Start date
R120, what model are the endura trousers? How do you find them
Polaris
Active member
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
Matchy matchy? The forks don't match the frame which doesn't match either colour on the shoes! You look like you've crashed through the window of a kindergarten paint factory!
No offence, like. You should see some of the shit I go out in public wearing....
No offence, like. You should see some of the shit I go out in public wearing....
yeah none of it was meant to match up, it just happens that i now look like i have had a series of accidents in a fire engine paint shop
I like them, but i wouldn't call them particularly warm or waterproof - more splash proof. Good to ride in though. Usually ride long bib tights under my shorts, but my normal shorts where still soaked with mud from the day before.
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inwoods
Active member
Thought id stick some more road based tyres on and see how it does on roads, there Schwalbe super moto-x 2.4", real nice fast smooth ride, perfect for back roads or dossing around local park, ill keep these on for next few months (at least until gisburn dries up), did 50 miles with 1 battery bar left, boost mode all the way but obviously riding above it for most of it.
Its interesting what effect the tyres have on range - i was riding with new 2.6 Magic Mary DH Ultra Softs at the weekend on the forum ride at Swinley, which is pretty flat and pedally, and i went through my battery quicker than i ever have done before.
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You're not a roadie as well? or are you.?
Anyway. I ride roadbikes a fair bit too at times and rolling resistance between different tyres there is pretty noticable. So range vs rolling resistance makes perfect sense.
Fast roadie tyres give away less than 10W per tyre, Fast XC tyres about 20-25w. An aggressive soft compound DH casing tyre probably approaches 60w per tyre. Don't know if you've ever used a poere meter but 120w isn't an awful lot of effort on its own but ADDING 120w to your effort is HUGE! Add low pressures and soft conditions to that and your motor is effectively fighting the rolling resistance as much as it is assisting you.
This is why I run a semi slick all year round and only use dual compound (or 60a) tyres on all except my DH bikes. I genuinely don't mind not having absolutely tons of grip. In certain situatins it does mean i can't corner quite as fast as on a soft compound tyre but you learn the limit pretty quick and just deal with it the same as you do on the grippiest tyres.
I'm quite possibly the only Emtb rider here who intentionally rides his Ebike switched off for large distances. (3 of my rides last week I rode it switched off covering around 40miles) and there's no way I would do this with different tyre compounds/treads.
I can't see anyone actually needing a DH ultra soft on the rear except for DH racing. What they're designed for. Do yourself a favour and stick a harder compound rear on and keep the SSoft for DH days or as a spare front.
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Yeah i am just playing around with them at the moment, not a roadie but spent a lot of time riding bikes on the road to know what a tyre can do for rolling resistance.
Got the MM's on a good deal, meant for the hardtail but thought i would try them out at he weekend on the Sommett, like them grip wise in that the bike went where i wanted and behaved how i wanted it too, and the grip for climbing is great, but noticeably slower on the straights.
Most of the guys round me run a hillbilly or similar up front for the winter, with a "normal" tyre out back. Main issue round here for the next 5 months will be most of the trails turn into a clay and mud mix, and the MM's are good for that, and the rears on the hardtail take a serious amount of abuse especially with the extra weight of the motor etc, so dh casing is a trade off i am happy to make.
I took em out in the pissing rain for a 10 mile ride earlier in the week and they are awesome on exposed roots and rocks in those conditions
Got the MM's on a good deal, meant for the hardtail but thought i would try them out at he weekend on the Sommett, like them grip wise in that the bike went where i wanted and behaved how i wanted it too, and the grip for climbing is great, but noticeably slower on the straights.
Most of the guys round me run a hillbilly or similar up front for the winter, with a "normal" tyre out back. Main issue round here for the next 5 months will be most of the trails turn into a clay and mud mix, and the MM's are good for that, and the rears on the hardtail take a serious amount of abuse especially with the extra weight of the motor etc, so dh casing is a trade off i am happy to make.
I took em out in the pissing rain for a 10 mile ride earlier in the week and they are awesome on exposed roots and rocks in those conditions
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Most of my rides are Calderdale, Peak district or the Yorkshire dales, going to try a Maxxis Shortie on the front with a Michelin Force AM on the back, the Force is supposed to be designed for dry/hard conditions, but given that most of the trails I'm riding are fairly rocky I am hoping that it will be ok.
Polaris
Active member
Thats the big difference i'm looking forward to with the shimano motor compared to the Bosch.. there's no way you'd ride a Bosch bike with the motor off, there's way too much resistance in the system in that sence, it makes unpowered riding very unpleasant
inwoods
Active member
Do yourselves (and thumbs) a favour and change the dropper cable outer and inner to a Shimano optislick, genuinly best change ive done to the bike, i fitted a wolf tooth and new inner cable a few weeks ago and it was still real hard to push and sometimes the post would stick, now its silky smooth.
The dropper cable routing out the box is a bit haphazard as it tends to be pretty long to enable you to get the post out of the seat tube, so gets twisted up when you reinsert. I too ran a woolftooth for a while, but now using a One Up Lever which i prefer. When i installed the Woolftoth i just cut down the original outer to ensue no kinks, and used a new cheap Clarkes cable from Halfords inside it. I cut it down so that i can just unhook the cable end from the post. Still using same cable on the One Up.
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From an article in this months MBR, this is what vitus say about the new 19 model:
"We've been tweaking the bike to reflect the performance improvements we have made to our own personal bikes, like the new low profile Shimano Steps controller and the Maxxis High Roller rear tyre for improved climbing and braking traction. Other upgrades include new Lyrik RC2 Fork and Super Deluxe RC3 shock, increased seat post insertion, shorter 165mm cranks, and a wider range 11-46t cassette, and an upgraded Nukeproof cockpit"
From the picture in the mag, although its very hard to make out, l it looks like it has an E7000 controller.
"We've been tweaking the bike to reflect the performance improvements we have made to our own personal bikes, like the new low profile Shimano Steps controller and the Maxxis High Roller rear tyre for improved climbing and braking traction. Other upgrades include new Lyrik RC2 Fork and Super Deluxe RC3 shock, increased seat post insertion, shorter 165mm cranks, and a wider range 11-46t cassette, and an upgraded Nukeproof cockpit"
From the picture in the mag, although its very hard to make out, l it looks like it has an E7000 controller.
Gonna be busy next couple of months so bikes for sale.
Will defo buy new model in new year.
Medium Vitus slx
E6000 switch
New rear mech
Recent chain & cassette
Peartune chip included
Tubless f&r with stans sealant
New rear 2.6 MM DHR
Approx 850 miles on clock but as it's got a peartune chip plugged in it's probably more like 1200
Few scratches as per, touch up paints included.
I'll get some new pics sorted if there's any interest.
£3000
Will defo buy new model in new year.
Medium Vitus slx
E6000 switch
New rear mech
Recent chain & cassette
Peartune chip included
Tubless f&r with stans sealant
New rear 2.6 MM DHR
Approx 850 miles on clock but as it's got a peartune chip plugged in it's probably more like 1200
Few scratches as per, touch up paints included.
I'll get some new pics sorted if there's any interest.
£3000
Seeing as this isn't the classifieds section. I'm going to ask something that I've been wondering for a while now. Do Ebikes really hold their value as well as some sellers think they do or are a lot of the asking prices here just very opimistic?
I keep seeing ridiculously high asking prices for S/H Emtbs.
I keep seeing ridiculously high asking prices for S/H Emtbs.
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jonathan horticulturist
Member
Got my Spesh with £3000 off list in next to prestine condition, so I don’t think so. Came derestricted and setup tubeless as well.
I paid full for mine £3600 I think, which is still cheep compared to other brands.
If I knew they were putting em oot f that I'd o saved mesen a bit o typing ?
I'm not bothered about selling awt tbh, just thought I might be able to have a new one next year.
I suppose this is why I keep bashing my head in the garage, there's a Santa Cruz Heckler kitted out with maverick duc's, Ellsworth rogue and a vitus rapide 29er.
ktm 990 f sale ish and husky 350 mabe f sale aswell in lieu of a ktm/husky 501.....
I'll probably have the same itinerarie next Xmas ?
If I knew they were putting em oot f that I'd o saved mesen a bit o typing ?
I'm not bothered about selling awt tbh, just thought I might be able to have a new one next year.
I suppose this is why I keep bashing my head in the garage, there's a Santa Cruz Heckler kitted out with maverick duc's, Ellsworth rogue and a vitus rapide 29er.
ktm 990 f sale ish and husky 350 mabe f sale aswell in lieu of a ktm/husky 501.....
I'll probably have the same itinerarie next Xmas ?
jonathan horticulturist
Member
That was a hard read...
Yeah soz, meant Heed not head ?
A riding bud had one. it broke (sometimes in spectacular fashion) every other ride.
Tim flookes (TFTuned) used to love his. but he'd strip it down after every XC ride.
Tim flookes (TFTuned) used to love his. but he'd strip it down after every XC ride.
You 100% sure that guard doesn't contact the seat tube?
If I run a rear LED on my seat post it tyre buzzes on full compression (wiv a 2.3 Minion SS).
#TooRAD4commuting
Get an RRP Proguard long for the full ugly duckling look.
Those things are ridiculously good at keeping shit out your face.
Ps. is that a PLUS mud tyre?
If I run a rear LED on my seat post it tyre buzzes on full compression (wiv a 2.3 Minion SS).
#TooRAD4commuting
Get an RRP Proguard long for the full ugly duckling look.
Those things are ridiculously good at keeping shit out your face.
Ps. is that a PLUS mud tyre?
i let some air out the rear shock and did a piss poor sam pilgrim impression down some local stairs and it was fine. It might just touch at full smack down but not that i noticed. Will take out later for a proper test, i have the front guard too, but had it on the rear of the hardtail.
As you can see from the pics could be mounted closer to tyre, but where it is it locks in nicely to the pivot point, so reckon securest place to fit it.
Tyres are 2.6 Hilly Billy, probably end up running them only on the front, but want to see what they are like front and back
As you can see from the pics could be mounted closer to tyre, but where it is it locks in nicely to the pivot point, so reckon securest place to fit it.
Tyres are 2.6 Hilly Billy, probably end up running them only on the front, but want to see what they are like front and back
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