matt_thebeard
Member
Just ordered these does any one use or tried these ? Hopefully got the right ones for my cube stereo 160
Hybrid ?
Hybrid ?
Uber brake pads
- Thread starter matt_thebeard
- Start date
I've been using Uber pads for a few years now on my mtb's..havent used emtb specific pads before ..but find them excellent and great value for money
YellowBits
New Member
The blue pads are supposed to last longer than the white pads but I don't think they do. Save a few quid and stick with the white "race matrix" pads. 
But yeah I rate them... Use them on all my bikes.
But yeah I rate them... Use them on all my bikes.
matt_thebeard
Member
- Thread starter
- #4
Good to know they are a reputable make thank u buddy
matt_thebeard
Member
- Thread starter
- #5
I had already placed the order to be fair so guess I’ll find out soon enough thanks for the positive feedback on them tho good to knowThe blue pads are supposed to last longer than the white pads but I don't think they do. Save a few quid and stick with the white "race matrix" pads.
But yeah I rate them... Use them on all my bikes.
Uber Sintered are decent, semi metalic are truely awful and race matrix are ok - but not really worth any extra over sintered IMO
Haven't tried Ematrix but suspect a similar story to race matrix. Wouldn't ever use organic
Uber mail you every oncein a while with discount weekend codes making them so cheap you can try out a few compounds and make up your own mind.
Haven't tried Ematrix but suspect a similar story to race matrix. Wouldn't ever use organic
Uber mail you every oncein a while with discount weekend codes making them so cheap you can try out a few compounds and make up your own mind.
They also sell the screws if you want to convert to the MT7 style pads
matt_thebeard
Member
- Thread starter
- #8
Ah also good to know !! Thank you , no idea which compound I’ve ordered can’t see it on the pic above but they are the ones I went with ?
matt_thebeard
Member
- Thread starter
- #9
I did read something about this !! Apart from being slightly easier to change is there any other benefits you can think of to separates ? Really am newbie here , thanks ?
Race matrix and E matrix are both a sintered pad but with added kevlar (said to aid life)
Standard Sintered work well in UK conditions, are consistent (wet or dry) deal with heat on longer descents better and last really well. some people complain of noise with sintered. Wear headphones or just stop braking so much
Levo Laland
Well-known member
The blue ebike ones are great in the dry but just disintegrate in the UK winter slop!
Levo Laland
Well-known member
Check out Gorilla as well, they seem just as good if not better quality and value. Uk company based in the Lake District.
They're a lot easier to change (as long as you have the correct torx bit), and I like the option to use different pad specs in one caliper but YMMV
matt_thebeard
Member
- Thread starter
- #14
Ah right ! Appreciate that info too , yes current standard ones do make a bit of a sqeak when grubby ?Race matrix and E matrix are both a sintered pad but with added kevlar (said to aid life)
Standard Sintered work well in UK conditions, are consistent (wet or dry) deal with heat on longer descents better and last really well. some people complain of noise with sintered. Wear headphones or just stop braking so much
matt_thebeard
Member
- Thread starter
- #15
matt_thebeard
Member
- Thread starter
- #16
Would add that to my list of suppliers too then , many thanks ?
DCx01
New Member
Yellow sintered ones on each and every bike. Last ages and stop my heavy weight. As cheap via eBay and easier to order.
Mr President
Active member
I've been using the OEM SRAM pads for the first few changes with my SRAM Guide REs. Just bought Uber for the first time to try them and no matter how much I try and push the pistons back in there remains insufficient space for the rotor to go between the pads. The pads are noticeably thicker than the SRAM version.
Anyone else have this issue?
I know Shimano pistons tend to recess more easily, but I've had no issues with the original SRAM pads.
Any suggestions before I turn to the dremel?
Anyone else have this issue?
I know Shimano pistons tend to recess more easily, but I've had no issues with the original SRAM pads.
Any suggestions before I turn to the dremel?
Are your pistons actually flush in the caliper?
And are you using OEM SRAM rotors?
Uber used to sell a (longer lasting) slightly thicker pad and it fits fine with adequate clearance in the RE caliper. Their normal pads have plenty room.
If your pistons won't push back flush you may have an overfilled system (bled with pistons not fully seated) good news is it's easily sorted
And are you using OEM SRAM rotors?
Uber used to sell a (longer lasting) slightly thicker pad and it fits fine with adequate clearance in the RE caliper. Their normal pads have plenty room.
If your pistons won't push back flush you may have an overfilled system (bled with pistons not fully seated) good news is it's easily sorted
Mr President
Active member
no the pistons aren't flush when retracted. I haven't touched the system since new last September. Maybe have to let out a little fluid. They've been so good with the sram oem pads that I am reluctant to disturb the system until there is another reason to do so. The rotors are sram oem came with the bike.
think i'll put the ubers aside for now and get some more srams. revert to the ubers when I have to bleed the brakes at some future point.
thanks for your feedback
Disturb the system ??
That's a new one.
Push your pistons back properly.
That's a new one.
Push your pistons back properly.
all you need to do is open the bleed screw on the lever and push the pistons back until they are flush. You may lose a little fluid from the bleed screw so use some shop towel.
You may have exactly the same problem with new SRAM pads simply because they will be at full width whilst you existing pads are worn.
The reason your pistons will not fully retract is either that there is some air in the system or the amount of fluid is effectively more than when first set up due to the DOT4 having absorbed some moisture. If the brake is not spongy it is likely to be the latter, so you will not fully retract the pistons without reducing the amount of fluid in the system a little.
You may have exactly the same problem with new SRAM pads simply because they will be at full width whilst you existing pads are worn.
The reason your pistons will not fully retract is either that there is some air in the system or the amount of fluid is effectively more than when first set up due to the DOT4 having absorbed some moisture. If the brake is not spongy it is likely to be the latter, so you will not fully retract the pistons without reducing the amount of fluid in the system a little.
If doing the above you still find it impossible to push the pistons back flush you will need to clean and lubricate the pistons. The pistons have special seals which flex as the piston moves towards the rotor and then act together with the pad spring to pull ( spring pushes) the pistons back to their starting point. Once the pads and or rotor wear the pistons force their way past the original contact points with the seal.........this is the self adjusting process maintaining lever throw when the pads wear. The area of the piston beyond the seal attracts dust and dirt etc and is dry so any attempt to push them back becomes opposed by the seal.
The way past this is to remove the pads and then use the brake lever to push each piston out in turn ( use blocks to hold the other pistons in). Be careful not to push them out too far! Use IPA or brake cleaner on a cotton bud or similar to clean each piston.........then lubricate each piston with Dot fluid and work it in and out repeatedly until that becomes easy. Finally clean the caliper with IPA before replacing the pads.
The way past this is to remove the pads and then use the brake lever to push each piston out in turn ( use blocks to hold the other pistons in). Be careful not to push them out too far! Use IPA or brake cleaner on a cotton bud or similar to clean each piston.........then lubricate each piston with Dot fluid and work it in and out repeatedly until that becomes easy. Finally clean the caliper with IPA before replacing the pads.
Mr President
Active member
Thanks Mikerb
I've no problem to do the mechanical work, but a bit strapped for time at the mo. Busy prepping for a cycle tour with my son next week.
The bike is only 9 months old, so I don't think it should be an age/wear issue. more likely that the system was a bit over-filled from the start. I'm pretty sure the SRAM OEMs are slimmer than the ubers. I've ordered a pair and will measure them to test the theory. if the ubers are working for others, then no reason they wouldn't work for me if I let some fluid out
Mr President
Active member
I bought and measured the sram pads. confirmed that overall they are the same thickness as the Ubers at 3.8mm.
Interestingly the pad material on the sram pad is 1mm thinner and the backing plate 1mm thicker. I wonder if this may provide shorter life, but better cooling? The backing plate metal itself is also different, which may also explain the difference in the thickness. The SRAMs look like copper, but more likely some sort of alloy. Maybe if the metal is softer it has to be thicker, but also manages the heat better?
As per Mikerb I let out a little fluid and fitted the Ubers on the rear caliper. Easy to do and now work fine. I have noticed some brake squeal at the rear for the first time. Has anyone else noticed that when swapping to Ubers? On my other bikes I only get squeel when the brakes start to overheat.
Only managed 10km before going OTB (caused by bad technique and the low BB) and having to abandon, so not much of a test really.
I'll use the SRAMS I bought on the front for the foreseeable and stick with the Ubers at the rear.
Interestingly the pad material on the sram pad is 1mm thinner and the backing plate 1mm thicker. I wonder if this may provide shorter life, but better cooling? The backing plate metal itself is also different, which may also explain the difference in the thickness. The SRAMs look like copper, but more likely some sort of alloy. Maybe if the metal is softer it has to be thicker, but also manages the heat better?
As per Mikerb I let out a little fluid and fitted the Ubers on the rear caliper. Easy to do and now work fine. I have noticed some brake squeal at the rear for the first time. Has anyone else noticed that when swapping to Ubers? On my other bikes I only get squeel when the brakes start to overheat.
Only managed 10km before going OTB (caused by bad technique and the low BB) and having to abandon, so not much of a test really.
I'll use the SRAMS I bought on the front for the foreseeable and stick with the Ubers at the rear.
Mr President
Active member
the SRAM pads were labelled as 'steel backing plate' so guess the copper colour is just cosmetic coating.
steel would rust so the coating ( whatever it is) is there to prevent the rust.
Mr President
Active member
eventually took the ubers off the rear as well. just too much judder and noise. Now back on the SRAMs front and back and definitely see more consistent braking. Riding is quieter and more more enjoyable too.
mtnbikerva1
Member
Report on pads? Likes and dislikes? What bike and what kind of riding train weather etc. are you riding in? Thank you.
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