Rail (625Wh) Tubeless??

[bluesurf989]

Hi all.
Ive got a 2021 Trek Rail 9.7 with the standard team tyres in which i will change at some point as there not great but just wondered if they come from the factory tubeless??

 

[Cb750stu]

I'd say most bikes come tubeless ready these days you'll soon find out when you replace the tyres

 

[Expidia]

Just be on alert that you don't get over charged when swapping over to tubeless if the rims don't need rim tape. I have two 2022 Powerflys. I changed over the FS9 last season and these Trek wheels already have this plastic insert (Bontrager Line Comp 30, Tubeless Ready), so they don't need any rim tape. When I looked at my itemized receipt the (a Trek owned company store yet) charged me $15 a wheel to install rim tape. I complained and pointed this out to them and they credited me back.

This smacked of a money grab to me! I don't know if my FS4 comes with the same brown plastic insert or they need to use rim tape (Alexrims MD35, tubeless ready). The reason I knew that the FS9 Bontrager Line Comp 30 rims don't need tape is because I first tried to change them over to tubeless myself, but I could not get them to seal without bubbles along the rim. I took it to a LBS (not a Trek shop) and their tech could not get them to seal either. This was because even though the FS9 Equipped comes will all upgraded components the "tires" (Bontrager LT4 Expert) "are not" tubeless ready.

You would think a long time experienced tech would have picked up on that??? Took me 3 trips back to their shop to try and stop the leaks only for them to put the tubes back in. Then a few months later after I got a nail punctucture I said screw it and took it to the Trek company owned shop. This is why I prefer to do the maintenance myself. With the help from the forum learning tubeless install tips and techniques . . . I think I will have no issues doing my other Powerfly swap over myself. I'm just waiting for the tires to wear as it had only 135 miles on it. Or another flat, then the tubed tires will be gone

Auto "tubed" tires (I used to install or repair them in a gas staion as a kid) were phased out of new cars in the early 70's like 50 years ago! So why are they still selling Ebikes with tubes??? Only downside I find with tubeless is mine tend to lose 3-4 pounds every week or two and need to be topped off. I'm running tubeless Bontrager XR3 Team Issue. Not cheap at $70 each (plus installation) because they are Lightweight "120 TPI" casing.

 

[Stihldog]

I did the tire-dance when I got my Powerfly’s also. The Rail was tubeless when I got it but the tires wore out fairly fast.

The tires on the Powerfly’s were better suited for gravel o street. All the rims were tubeless ready with the plastic seal installed but one leaked air through the holes in the rim when I tried to go tubeless. I eventually installed (Stan’s) rim tape on all the wheels as I upgraded the tires (Maxxis).

The original tires on the Powerfly’s were better rolling for the street but we needed more grip for our trails. I usually added air to the tires before each ride (2-18psi) to get them to 24psi. Not a big deal but over a week or two I had to add air.

When I upgraded my rims on the Rail, to Raceface off-set, I installed the Filmore valves. They were a little different than the standard valves but I’d give them a try. Expensive, but I can’t remember the last time I added air except when I need to change the worn out tire. No more tire sealant clog either.

 

[Expidia]

Good call on the Stan's rim tape. I already use Stans sealant, so I'll have the Trek store install the rim tape. I set my tires at 45 lbs. I just checked like 1.5 weeks later and they are at 38.5! I'll also go with the Filmore valves too.
Thx for those tips Stihldog

Yikes (Amazon) Filmore valves in pic:

Funny, yesterday I was cruising around my area for a few hours and I kept saying to myself "damn, this bike is running so smooth today" . . . I could hardly feel any bumps. Then this AM when I checked the pressures they were down -7.5 Lbs in a weeks time from where I usually keep them

 

[steve_sordy]

..............Funny, yesterday I was cruising around my area for a few hours and I kept saying to myself "damn, this bike is running so smooth today" . . . I could hardly feel any bumps. Then this AM when I checked the pressures they were down -7.5 Lbs in a weeks time from where I usually keep them

If it feels good, why not keep that lower pressure? Maybe experiment with even lower?

 

[steve_sordy]

..................

..................I first tried to change them over to tubeless myself, but I could not get them to seal without bubbles along the rim. I took it to a LBS (not a Trek shop) and their tech could not get them to seal either. This was because even though the FS9 Equipped comes will all upgraded components the "tires" (Bontrager LT4 Expert) "are not" tubeless ready.
.......................

When tyre sealant is supposed to seal holes up to 6mm, why do we give up when it won't seal a few bubbles on the rim? I have gone tubeless with tyres that were not tubeless, but I had to change to a latex based sealant. I have had tyres whose sidewall was so porous you could see hundreds and hundreds of air jets foaming the soapy water I had spilled on the tyre. I pumped the tyre up to the highest figure stated on the tyre and left the wheel laid horizontal on a bucket / plantpot / whatever, for 30 mins to give the air pressure time to force the sealant into the porous sidewalls. After 30 mins I restored the pressure and flipped the wheel the other way up for another 30 mins. Make sure that you give the wheel a vigorous shaking to fully distribute to sealant before each placement on the bucket.

The tyre will always leak a bit of air, but I check the tyre pressures before every ride anyway so it's no hardship. When the pressure loss per day starts to increase, it's a sign that the sealant might need topping up.

The only tyre that defeated me wasn't actually the tyre it was on a brand-new bike that was allegedly tubeless ready, but when the sealant started coming out of the vent hole in the rim, I suspected something was wrong. I returned the wheel to the shop and they re-placed the rim tape. Success followed.

 

[Expidia]

I keep it on the higher side since 90% of my ebiking is on pavement, fire roads or single track. Even though the motor is doing the work I like to use Tour most of the time, I prefer the tires to roll easier.

"The tyre will always leak a bit of air, but I check the tyre pressures before every ride anyway so it's no hardship. When the pressure loss per day starts to increase, it's a sign that the sealant might need topping up."

Yep, I've been meaning to top the Stan's off and keep forgetting!

 

[DeRailled7]

The Bontrager Line Comp 30 wheels and XR5 Team Issue tires on your 9.7 are tubeless ready. Ready means you just add sealant and you’re ready to go, tape should already be installed. You should also have received a pair of tubeless valves when you bought it. All bike shops here in town sell the Rails tubeless, i.e. with sealant and everything. Very convenient. I use Orange sealant and replace it twice a year, it performs very well for me.

I found the XR5 tires to be very though. I ride very rocky gnarly downhill trails and never had a puncture. My buddies on Spech Butchers all has flats. The XR5 are not IMO the best tires for my area though, i found them too squirmy. I replaced them with Maxxis DHR and DHF, much better suited for my style.

Enjoy your Rail, it’s the best e-mtn bike you can get!

 

[Stihldog]

Enjoy your Rail, it’s the best e-mtn bike you can get!

Shssss. Everyone’s gonna want one…then the price goes up.

MucOff and Bontrager sealant works best for me. I’ve seen a few tires that used Stans sealant when I changed the tires. The sealant had dried and balled up. More sealant might have helped.

Clogged valves are always a thing which is mainly why I’m using Filmore valves now. They are stupid-expensive ($80 pair CDN) but now they have colour matching valve covers .

 

[irie]

Shssss. Everyone’s gonna want one…then the price goes up.

MucOff and Bontrager sealant works best for me. I’ve seen a few tires that used Stans sealant when I changed the tires. The sealant had dried and balled up. More sealant might have helped.

Clogged valves are always a thing which is mainly why I’m using Filmore valves now. They are stupid-expensive ($80 pair CDN) but now they have colour matching valve covers .

You can minimise sealant clogging up valves by ensuring the valves are near the bottom while the bike is unused. ITSWIM.

 

[DeRailled7]

I always try to rest my bike as Irie describes, but when my valves get to clogged up, i remove the stems and soak then in varsol. Varsol will dissolve the sealant.

 

[irie]

I always try to rest my bike as Irie describes, but when my valves get to clogged up, i remove the stems and soak then in varsol. Varsol will dissolve the sealant.

If at all clogged up, or when changing tyres, I clean the stem using a wet pipe cleaner. Then if the core is at all clogged up put a new one in. Use Muc-Off latex sealant and buy cores in 10 packs.

 

[Stihldog]

We seem to be leaning towards MucOff sealant in our neighborhood. There’s nothing wrong with the other sealants but I just don’t want to mix them up.

I have a special wheel and combination tool holder for those new tire/CushCore days. I don’t think anyone else has this specific model and colour in our circle of eMTB’s. When not in use it can be used as a container.

 

[fasterjason]

The Bontrager Line Comp 30 wheels and XR5 Team Issue tires on your 9.7 are tubeless ready. Ready means you just add sealant and you’re ready to go, tape should already be installed. You should also have received a pair of tubeless valves when you bought it. All bike shops here in town sell the Rails tubeless, i.e. with sealant and everything. Very convenient.

Trek Rails have come with tubeless rim strips and valve stems since they were introduced three years ago, but had tubes installed for 2020 and 2021 models. In the middle of the pandemic Trek stopped installing tubes and the bikes came with the valve stem installed and two bottles of sealant in the NIP box. The shop is supposed to ask if you want the sealant installed upon purchase or give you the sealant to install yourself. I am sure that a lot of customers don't get the sealant (or get charged for it), same for the shock pump and torque key that come with the bikes in the past.

 

[Gamer73]

The lbs converted my front to tubeless when I had them insert Carbon bontrager rims to replace the awfull rims that comes stock with the rail 5 2021 model. My tires are maxxis Agassi (or whatever you spell it) up front.

They do leak more air than what it used to with tubes, but I don’t mind filing in air once a week as I only do mtb during the summer months. I would definitely hated it on my work commuter.

But I know the advice is to refill sealant. But tbh, I don’t want to touch it lol. I don’t want to mess with a setup that works so great. It’s probably leaking less air now 1.5 years after it was setup as tubeless. Sure, the sealant will probably not help me if I get puncture, but I have never in my life gotten one at the front tyre so I risk it.

At the back I run tubes inserted into a tannus armor thing and I have not had a puncture in it since it was installed with a carbon rim. The lbs struggled majorly with the tannus armor lol. They had never seen it before. And I think bontrager rims are known for being a tight fit.

 

[steve_sordy]

....................... Sure, the sealant will probably not help me if I get puncture, but I have never in my life gotten one at the front tyre so I risk it.

At the back I run tubes inserted into a tannus armor thing and I have not had a puncture in it since it was installed with a carbon rim..................

Well, that's jinxed it!