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Any know how the tan wall Maxxis tyres play in tubless mode ?
Going tubeless will help with general punctures and still worth doing on your skinwalls at this stage. Pinch flats are still a risk with thin casings but you can mitigate the risk by running higher pressures (20PSI+) and carrying a tubeless repair kit on your rides. I'd still run your current tyres till they need replacing.That's why I asked, I already had a puncture and it was really easy to remove the tyre. Wasn't sure how well the bead would seat and like you say, a flimsy sidewall. Thanks ??
Did you use rim tape?Had a slow puncture on the rear, so armed with a bottle of Stan's and a tubeless valve, I gave up half my dinner break for the job at hand. Stripped the wheel, ditched the tube,found the thorn, re-assebled, added fluid, pumped and popped the bead...... Pssssssssss
The rims have two tiny holes to stop air being trapped between tube and rim ? Any tips ?
I unfortunately assumed that the yellow tape already in place would be ok. Does this mean that these rims are not "tubeless ready". I'll buy some tape tomorrow. The tape looked a lot like the stuff on my "cheap Cube" which worked out of the box.Did you use rim tape?
Did you make sure the valve was bedded in tight?
The wheels have two small holes drilled in each rim. This is where the air instantly begins to escape. They would need blocking off with something, but the original rim tape covers those up from the inside.Did you use rim tape?
Did you make sure the valve was bedded in tight?
Can you share some photos of the rim tape and how the valve is bedded in?The wheels have two small holes drilled in each rim. This is where the air instantly begins to escape. They would need blocking off with something, but the original rim tape covers those up from the inside.
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