Tubeless rim strip set up tip

[Jeff McD]

Passing on something I just learned after many years of riding tubeless and occasionaly suffering sealant leaks for unknown reasons. Just installed a new tire on a new wheel with a brand new specialized 30 mm wide black rimstrip and the valve stem with a little coating of sealant on the rubber base of the Stan's valve stem. I've had sealant leaks unless I tighten the valve nut with a wrench in the past so I always tighten it one full turn beyond finger tight. I carry a wolftooth pliers in the field in case of emergency installation of a tube to get the valve nut off. I realize it is advised to only tighten these valve nuts finger tight but that has repeatedly caused leaks for me personally so that's why I do this now. I'm going to carry the pliers anyway for other uses so no reason not to.
I left the sealant to dry thoroughly overnight but also installed the tire to stretch the bead for 24 hours. Also inflated it to make sure it would hold air for about 20 minutes and no leaks through the rim strip. It did fine. Lost air overnight however, but expected that. The next day I went to inject sealant through the valve stem with the core removed. On a whim I pushed the tire bead into the center channel one at a time on both sides to check the rim strip edge position. Was surprised to find that, while mounting the tire I presume, I had shifted the rim strip edge into the center channel about 3 mm on one side , along the length of 3-4 spokes, even though I tried to mount the tire very carefully and gently. It was probably bunched up in the center channel because when I checked the opposite side the edge of the strip was located perfectly and had not slid 3 mm up the lateral wall of the rim edge. I was able to pull the edge of the strip back to its proper location against the inside of the rim edge using a strip of soft gummy rubber to shift it without removing the tire bead. Wouldn't have been able to do this if I had used rim tape. The rubber rim strip was just thick enough to slide back out to the edge evenly. Then installed sealant and pumped it up. It sealed perfectly without any leaks whatsoever. Wondering if in the past my leaks were due to having shifted the rim strip/tape without realizing it when I mounted the tire. Certainly worth checking anytime you do this.
Also will say that I have had good luck with the specialized rim strips and can highly recommend them as long as this is checked and as long as you realize these rim strips are a one use deal. Will never go back to rim tape again.
Hope this helps newbies just starting the tubeless process.

 

[Mikerb]

Passing on something I just learned after many years of riding tubeless and occasionaly suffering sealant leaks for unknown reasons. Just installed a new tire on a new wheel with a brand new specialized 30 mm wide black rimstrip and the valve stem with a little coating of sealant on the rubber base of the Stan's valve stem. I've had sealant leaks unless I tighten the valve nut with a wrench in the past so I always tighten it one full turn beyond finger tight. I carry a wolftooth pliers in the field in case of emergency installation of a tube to get the valve nut off. I realize it is advised to only tighten these valve nuts finger tight but that has repeatedly caused leaks for me personally so that's why I do this now. I'm going to carry the pliers anyway for other uses so no reason not to.
I left the sealant to dry thoroughly overnight but also installed the tire to stretch the bead for 24 hours. Also inflated it to make sure it would hold air for about 20 minutes and no leaks through the rim strip. It did fine. Lost air overnight however, but expected that. The next day I went to inject sealant through the valve stem with the core removed. On a whim I pushed the tire bead into the center channel one at a time on both sides to check the rim strip edge position. Was surprised to find that, while mounting the tire I presume, I had shifted the rim strip edge into the center channel about 3 mm on one side , along the length of 3-4 spokes, even though I tried to mount the tire very carefully and gently. It was probably bunched up in the center channel because when I checked the opposite side the edge of the strip was located perfectly and had not slid 3 mm up the lateral wall of the rim edge. I was able to pull the edge of the strip back to its proper location against the inside of the rim edge using a strip of soft gummy rubber to shift it without removing the tire bead. Wouldn't have been able to do this if I had used rim tape. The rubber rim strip was just thick enough to slide back out to the edge evenly. Then installed sealant and pumped it up. It sealed perfectly without any leaks whatsoever. Wondering if in the past my leaks were due to having shifted the rim strip/tape without realizing it when I mounted the tire. Certainly worth checking anytime you do this.
Also will say that I have had good luck with the specialized rim strips and can highly recommend them as long as this is checked and as long as you realize these rim strips are a one use deal. Will never go back to rim tape again.
Hope this helps newbies just starting the tubeless process.

I had an annoying "tick" noise which I eventually determined was on each revolution of thr back wheel and it turned out to be a small section of rim strip that was folded over on itself at the bead. I assume that was caused when the tyre was installed.

 

[Jeff McD]

Huh, wow, what was it hitting to cause the ticking sound?

 

[levity]

... it turned out to be a small section of rim strip that was folded over on itself at the bead...

How did that cause a ”tick” sound as the wheel rotated??

 

[Trickz]

the dt Swiss rims ive had in the past have been excellent ie the rim tape on the six wheels I’ve had have never failed,the four wtb rims I’ve had have all failed eventually from new,on my last wtb clad bike I ripped the rim tape out and used gorilla tape which is thick with slight stretch in it so perfect for the job,one big thing for me I’ve found over the years is that for me..the tubeless valves with the square/oblong block are far superior in sealing than the round tapered types and less temperamental on how tight you tighten the nut,I use the genuine dt Swiss valves or muck off ones as they come with a square rubber you can fit,I’ve tried to like milkit valves btw but imo they are just more trouble than they are worth,the plunger valves don’t always open the internal flaps,the valves eat the presta inserts for some reason by tearing the lower seal and because the valve Bore is narrow eventually the stans seals the valve completely?

 

[Mikerb]

How did that cause a ”tick” sound as the wheel rotated??

It held a section of tyre bead slightly high so in effect the tyre had a high spot. It was only really noticeable on tarmac and other smooth surfaces but once you hear a noise your brain focuses on it so darned annoying!