Tubeless conversion shopping list...

[EMTBehave]

Hi guys,

Hope you're all well. I want to go tubeless on my my new bike that has the following rims and tires:

• Newmen Evolution SL E.35, 28H, Disc, Tubeless Ready (35mm width) Newmen - EVOLUTION SL E.35 - Wheels - E-MTB
• Schwalbe Hans Dampf, Addix Speedgrip, Super Gravity, Tubeless Easy, 2.60
• Schwalbe Magic Mary, Addix Soft, Super Gravity, Tubeless Easy, 2.60

My shopping list so far is:

1. Notubes Stan's tire sealant Stan's Tire Sealant - Quart
2. Muc-off tubeless valves 60mm Introducing Muc-Off Tubeless Valves
3. Tubeless rim tape 40mm WTB TCS® Rim Tape Tubeless | 40 mm x 11 m, 12,50
4. Notubes DART repair system DART | Stan's NoTubes

Does all that look right for my size rims and wheels and am I missing anything that I ideally need to buy before I give it a go?

 

[Dan63]

25-30mm tape would be ideal for those 35mm wheels - 40mm wont work as it is too wide. Bearing in mind you only need to cover the spoke holes to create a seal and nothing more, the suggestion of some to use a tape that goes from edge to edge of the rim including the bead sealing area is in my mind silly and only introduces extra complication.

I've personally had great success with 25mm gorilla tape and orange endurance sealant on my 38mm wheels. The Muc-Off valves look great, probably the best on the market. Refreshing the sealant at the moment and I'm picking up a set of Muc-Off valves tomorrow to replace the cheap ebay valves i've currently got fitted.

You will also need something to pump/bead the tubeless tyres, you need to get a lot of air in quickl. Best option is a special pump or an air compressor, if you do not have either of these CO2 canisters work well.

Dry fit and bead the tyres, inflate and check for leaks. Once you're happy, remove the valve core and add sealant. Spin/ride to get a good distribution of sealant and sit @ 40psi overnight, check they're holding pressure.

 

[EMTBehave]

25-30mm tape would be ideal for those 35mm wheels - 40mm wont work as it is too wide. Bearing in mind you only need to cover the spoke holes to create a seal and nothing more, the suggestion of some to use a tape that goes from edge to edge of the rim including the bead sealing area is in my mind silly and only introduces extra complication.

I've personally had great success with 25mm gorilla tape and orange endurance sealant on my 38mm wheels. The Muc-Off valves look great, probably the best on the market. Refreshing the sealant at the moment and I'm picking up a set of Muc-Off valves tomorrow to replace the cheap ebay valves i've currently got fitted.

You will also need something to pump/bead the tubeless tyres, you need to get a lot of air in quickl. Best option is a special pump or an air compressor, if you do not have either of these CO2 canisters work well.

Dry fit and bead the tyres, inflate and check for leaks. Once you're happy, remove the valve core and add sealant. Spin/ride to get a good distribution of sealant and sit @ 40psi overnight, check they're holding pressure.

Thanks for the advice much appreciated! Interesting about the rim tape as MBR recommends 3-5mm wider than your rims? Also which liquid injector and air compressor would you recommend?

 

[simonk]

Your rims are probably taped already so you may not need the tape.
Always handy to have some in stock though...
Why not just get the Stans kit? The Stans valves work great for me on several different rims.

 

[GrahamPaul]

Thanks for the advice much appreciated! Interesting about the rim tape as MBR recommends 3-5mm wider than your rims? Also which liquid injector and air compressor would you recommend?

Just remember that rubber tyres do not constrain CO2 very well and so you will need to pump up the tyres again a couple of times over the next 24 hours just to replace the CO2. This is not a leak, just a fact of physics.

If you google MTB tubeless tyre kits, you'll find links to syringe systems for adding the sealant to your tyres. I think mine was made by Effeto Mariposa, but there are many which do the same job.

I use an air tank (basically a flask pumped up by a track pump) to shock the tyre onto the rim. These things are expensive and for that cost I could have bought 40 CO2 cartridges. However, there is an alternative approach which does seem to work well with new tyres as per this video.

 

[wepn]

Also which liquid injector and air compressor would you recommend?

These work well

Tire Sealant Injector

JOEBLOW TWIN TURBO | Topeak

 

[ImSundee]

Personally a big fan of:
Tubeless Conversion Kit

But the mukoff or stans kits are great too.

I wouldn't bother with a liquid injector, just take a tyre slightly off and pour it in - alot less mess.

 

[GrahamPaul]

Personally a big fan of:
Tubeless Conversion Kit

But the mukoff or stans kits are great too.

I wouldn't bother with a liquid injector, just take a tyre slightly off and pour it in - alot less mess.

Although I understand the attraction of kits as a kind of "dip toe in water", it's worth a mention that the kits only contain enough sealant for two tyres. If something goes wrong (which it did the first time I did a tubeless tyre) and you lose some or all of the sealant, you're stuck until you can buy more. It's then going to be an expensive way of buying sealant.

As you are going to need to top up your sealant every few months, you are going to have to buy some anyway, so you might as well save your money on the box and buy the bits in bulk. It's cheaper.

 

[KennyB]

I woud stick with Stan's sealant if you are using the DART system, it reacts with the sealant to fix the hole, any latex based sealant should work but why not stick with Stan's?
I love the Milkit valves and injector, they also do an air flask which I have heard good things about. The beauty is that you can seat the tyre and remove the core without losing pressure (there is a secondary valve), then fill with the syringe and needle. Checking sealant quantity and quality and topping up is done with out breaking the seal. See milkit.bike » Tubeless made easy

 

[Alan wolfe]

Hi guys,

Hope you're all well. I want to go tubeless on my my new bike that has the following rims and tires:

• Newmen Evolution SL E.35, 28H, Disc, Tubeless Ready (35mm width) Newmen - EVOLUTION SL E.35 - Wheels - E-MTB
• Schwalbe Hans Dampf, Addix Speedgrip, Super Gravity, Tubeless Easy, 2.60
• Schwalbe Magic Mary, Addix Soft, Super Gravity, Tubeless Easy, 2.60

My shopping list so far is:

1. Notubes Stan's tire sealant Stan's Tire Sealant - Quart
2. Muc-off tubeless valves 60mm Introducing Muc-Off Tubeless Valves
3. Tubeless rim tape 40mm WTB TCS® Rim Tape Tubeless | 40 mm x 11 m, 12,50
4. Notubes DART repair system DART | Stan's NoTubes

Does all that look right for my size rims and wheels and am I missing anything that I ideally need to buy before I give it a go?

Use gorrilla tape make sure get all bubbles out

 

[Kingfisher]

Put some electric tape on first, then the rim tape

 

[Dan63]

Use gorrilla tape make sure get all bubbles out

Works for me. The biggest appeal for me, is that it costed me $3.90 for a 30ft roll, compared with tubeless tape ranging from $25-60!

 

[KennyB]

Couple of thoughts on rim tape. WTB recommends 5mm wider than the rim internal width, hence your 40mm I suspect. I had a look at the link you posted to the wheels, the tech stuff is in German and includes the phrase "benötigtes Felgenband 35-40mm" which translates as "required rim tape 35-40mm"

 

[deksawyer]

I recently went tubeless on my Haibike, which has 35mm rims. I tried with narrower tape first (Tesa 4289) and it would not seal. Went with WTB 40mm tape and it sealed first time.

I used the Muc-off valve kit and sealant. Works very well and smells nice too.

I taped, put tyre back on and pumped back up then let it sit overnight to see if it held pressure, and when it did, I poured the sealand into the valve, with the core removed. The muckoff pouches are designed to make this as easy as possible.

 

[steve_sordy]

+1 for the Gorilla tape.
Also, after being disappointed so many times on new bikes with poorly fitted rim tape, I now always remove the original equipment rim tape and replace with Gorilla tape. Never had a failure. Overlap the tape over the valve hole and then pierce through with a sharp object, I use a bradawl.

One more thing, I recommend that you buy some ptfe tape (also known as plumbers tape) from the DIY shop and put a few wraps around the tubeless valves before you use them. Gently tap the valves in with a soft hammer. PTFE tape can be used for many things; sealing threads, making "O" rings of any size...... so you will get value for money from the tape.

 

[EMTBehave]

Couple of thoughts on rim tape. WTB recommends 5mm wider than the rim internal width, hence your 40mm I suspect. I had a look at the link you posted to the wheels, the tech stuff is in German and includes the phrase "benötigtes Felgenband 35-40mm" which translates as "required rim tape 35-40mm"

Yup I read the MTB article and also my rim specs... so I am a bit confused why people are suggesting otherwise as surely both MTB and the manufacturer wouldn't recommend things that weren't good practise?

I recently went tubeless on my Haibike, which has 35mm rims. I tried with narrower tape first (Tesa 4289) and it would not seal. Went with WTB 40mm tape and it sealed first time.

Good to know thanks chap!

 

[GrahamPaul]

Yup I read the MTB article and also my rim specs... so I am a bit confused why people are suggesting otherwise as surely both MTB and the manufacturer wouldn't recommend things that weren't good practise?

Maybe they are sponsored by a tube manufacturer?

More seriously, other articles I have read and videos I watched before doing my first tubeless seemed to indicate that you'd lose up to 2mm in width by stretching the tape tightly. Furthermore, there's probably a loss into the centre channel on rims with a deep V. The Newmen's you are using appear to have a step from the bottom of the rim up to the seating bead. This looks to be a few mms and could well account for the implied excess.

To my mind, those rims actually look quite difficult to tape if you are going to do the full rim bed. I would probably just tape the channel only, as it looks the simplest. Trying to get the steps to tape without getting bubbles and gaps looks really difficult - although a hair dryer or heat gun might help.