My 2019 Levo came with 29 wheels and tires with tubes?
Just wondering what others are doing, take the tubes out and run tubeless o
Just wondering what others are doing, take the tubes out and run tubeless o
Tube or Tubeless?
- Thread starter Ron
- Start date
EbikeTom
Member
Definitely, get the tubes pulled out, you won’t look back.
There’s said to be benefits like lower rolling resistance, better tire shape, lower weight bla bla bla. For me the single best reason for ditching the tubes is you rarely, if ever get punctures. Why would you not...
There’s said to be benefits like lower rolling resistance, better tire shape, lower weight bla bla bla. For me the single best reason for ditching the tubes is you rarely, if ever get punctures. Why would you not...
@Ron
May i go a little further on this and ask if people generally run any rim protection systems, on back only, front and back or not at all. I come from analogue world where i have run tubeless for many years and love it. About to get a new Commencal, to start with i will run tubeless and carry a spare tube in case of emergency etc. but interested to understand what people are doing here.
Thanks.
May i go a little further on this and ask if people generally run any rim protection systems, on back only, front and back or not at all. I come from analogue world where i have run tubeless for many years and love it. About to get a new Commencal, to start with i will run tubeless and carry a spare tube in case of emergency etc. but interested to understand what people are doing here.
Thanks.
Tubeless. Instead of how many flats per year, it's how many years per flat. Plus, lower pressures
jonathan horticulturist
Member
Swissrob
Well-known member
I was advised against this depending on skills level and pressure. Whilst running lower pressure the chance of a tyre burp and a big off increases, higher skills and pressures lower the chance of this happening. I will follow this to get feedback. I still run tubes and 500km with out a puncture.
Hi @Swissrob
Not so sure that you were given good advice really?
IMHO you would be needing to run at silly low pressures to risk any real problems, I have unintentionally run as low as 6 psi on the rear and got away with it. As long as your tire width is proportional to your rim width and you keep the PSI in double figures you should be fine. I run 2.8 on a 35mm internal width rim and generally run 22 rear and 18 front but often run as low as 16 /12 if it's particularly snotty and never a problem with burping.
The benefits of running a tubeless setup really are worth the effort, removing the weight of the tubes alone will transform how your bike reacts, but perhaps the only downside is if you are not used to tubeless they can be a little tricky to setup.
But there is plenty of help and advice on Youtube to see you through. 
Agreed, I have had zero issues since going tubeless and it has definitely saved me a number of puncture repairs trailside. As long as you run sensible pressures (higher if you are a more aggressive rider) then you will be fine.Hi @Swissrob
Not so sure that you were given good advice really?
IMHO you would be needing to run at silly low pressures to risk any real problems, I have unintentionally run as low as 6 psi on the rear and got away with it. As long as your tire width is proportional to your rim width and you keep the PSI in double figures you should be fine. I run 2.8 on a 35mm internal width rim and generally run 22 rear and 18 front but often run as low as 16 /12 if it's particularly snotty and never a problem with burping.
The benefits of running a tubeless setup really are worth the effort, removing the weight of the tubes alone will transform how your bike reacts, but perhaps the only downside is if you are not used to tubeless they can be a little tricky to setup.
highpeakrider
E*POWAH Master
Tubeless, but I carry a tube and gear just in case.
Swissrob
Well-known member
Hi @Swissrob
Not so sure that you were given good advice really?
IMHO you would be needing to run at silly low pressures to risk any real problems, I have unintentionally run as low as 6 psi on the rear and got away with it. As long as your tire width is proportional to your rim width and you keep the PSI in double figures you should be fine. I run 2.8 on a 35mm internal width rim and generally run 22 rear and 18 front but often run as low as 16 /12 if it's particularly snotty and never a problem with burping.
The benefits of running a tubeless setup really are worth the effort, removing the weight of the tubes alone will transform how your bike reacts, but perhaps the only downside is if you are not used to tubeless they can be a little tricky to setup.
Standard 2018 Levo and 2.8 Butcher tyres, anyone had some burps with tubeless? I am leaning towards tubeless, fitted the odd 1000 tyres in a past life as a mechanic so change is not an issue!
ChrisB NZ
Well-known member
Good discussion. I’m thinking about going tubeless as everyone seems to recommend it. I haven’t really had a problem with flats - but then I’m probably not pushing things as hard as some and most of my riding is on forest trails with not too many rocky bits.
A couple of questions:
(i) Should I do both front and rear wheels? Someone told me I only need to do the rear.
(ii) Should I also use foam inserts, e.g Cushcores?
The latter are pretty expensive. Would they be worth it for an average rider?
Oh and I’m riding Maxis Minion DHR II 27.5 x 2.8’s
A couple of questions:
(i) Should I do both front and rear wheels? Someone told me I only need to do the rear.
(ii) Should I also use foam inserts, e.g Cushcores?
The latter are pretty expensive. Would they be worth it for an average rider?
Oh and I’m riding Maxis Minion DHR II 27.5 x 2.8’s
Last edited:
idahoskiguy
Member
Not even a question......tubeless is the way to go!
However, there is no perfect system. On a recent ride, I did manage to put a 2-inch slice in the rear sidewall and had to walk out even though I was carrying a tube as a backup.
However, there is no perfect system. On a recent ride, I did manage to put a 2-inch slice in the rear sidewall and had to walk out even though I was carrying a tube as a backup.
I carry an old credit (type) card for that, trim to size to hold the tube in until you get home
EbikeTom
Member
(i) I’d defiantly ride both, for weight and puncture protection it’s worth it alone - 2.8 tube is around 300g, so you’re loosing 600g.
(ii) I think the jury’s out on inserts. With the 2.8’s if I drop the pressure to a point where I could potentially hit a rim I don’t like the feel in corners, they feel too soft with too much roll.
I’ve been a fan of tubeless from the start and will admit it hasn’t always worked well, but in the last few years tires, rims and sealant seemed to have evolved to a point where you can really feel the benefits in any application (road bikes included).
I think the most important thing is to match your tire to your terrain. I ride in the alps and run the 2.8 butcher, it’s a heavy beast with stiff side walls, but I never get punctures or leakages.
crazymac680
Member
If you have always had tubes without issue you should stick with that. If you are planning on pushing your riding to the next level then tubeless is an upgrade.
I was happy with tubes until I got a full susser and started pushing it and getting pinch flats.
I then went to tubeless and lower pressures and detroyed a set of wheels on the first tubeless ride. They have now been trouble free for about 2 years but if your happy I would stay away.
It can be a nightmare to setup.
I was happy with tubes until I got a full susser and started pushing it and getting pinch flats.
I then went to tubeless and lower pressures and detroyed a set of wheels on the first tubeless ride. They have now been trouble free for about 2 years but if your happy I would stay away.
It can be a nightmare to setup.
JoeBlow
Active member
In the first week of owning a new bike, I went out 3 times. I had 7 punctures in total. The following week I went tubeless and haven't had one since and that's in 18 months of riding 2 or 3 times per week on average.
Al
Al
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
Going tubeless is easier than a beginner makes it look, but harder than an expert makes it look!
But after several installations and tyre changes, you will be an expert, it's that simple!
Edit: Ref burping. I used to see how low I could go before the tyre would burp on a corner and it was always well below the tyre pressure I was comfortable with in terms of ride feel.
I am 92kg riding weight and have 29x2.5" Maxxis HR II I use 17psi front and 20psi rear. on 30mm rims
But after several installations and tyre changes, you will be an expert, it's that simple!
Edit: Ref burping. I used to see how low I could go before the tyre would burp on a corner and it was always well below the tyre pressure I was comfortable with in terms of ride feel.
I am 92kg riding weight and have 29x2.5" Maxxis HR II I use 17psi front and 20psi rear. on 30mm rims
nasamorpheus
Member
I did thousands of kilometres with different bikes, only one puncture in my whole life, Schwalbe racing Ralph on fire road.. Period. No need to go tubeless, terrible mess.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
You lucky, lucky boy!
I used to average a flat every 14 miles (60psi in a 26x1.95") until I put Slime in my tubes. Then I never got another flat for years. Loads of punctures, just no flats. When I started with a proper mtb, I used the same practice. When I got a bit more serious, I went tubeless with the Mavic UST system. I already had the Mavic UST wheels and I bought proper UST tyres. With those, you don't need sealant to hold air pressure, but of course they are still prone to suffer punctures and hence flats. So it seemed perfectly sensible to add a sealant. I went many years before getting a flat and that was a tyre fault where it tore at the bead.
JoeBlow
Active member
My early experiences may have influenced my opinion but 7 in 1 week to none in 18 months is pretty persuasive.
GrahamPaul
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
In the local forest - lots of acacia thorns. Current tyres have been on the bike since mid-May and have done a couple of thousand kilometres. I leave the thorns in, which means there is a slight trace of liquid. Must be 4 dozen thorns in the rear, which have gone right through the tyre and would have punctured a tube.
I had a short while before going tubeless and was getting 2 punctures per trip.
I lead out a pack of old timers for a coffee run once a week. We spend more time repairing their punctures than drinking coffee at our stops. I'm slowly converting them all to tubeless. The hard bit is making them understand that the liquid does need a regular top up.
Elover
Member
Tubeless with an insert.... You can smash through all and never get flats... Ok its not impossible, but a group of us havw this set up and its been 100% trouble free for nearlt 2 years..
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
In the countryside, on bridleways and the like, and pretty much any of the forest trails anywhere in the UK will have the following.
Hawthorne trees/bushes have spikes that will go though your shoe! In addition, mature Brambles can be most unpleasant. Then there is Gorse, which while it can penetrate clothing, you'd have to be unlucky for any of their spikes to penetrate a tyre. When the farmers cut the hedges the trails can be inches deep in long wooden splinters, which may also contain spikes from the fore-mentioned threats. And I haven't even got on to flint, sharp edged rock, glass, nails........
Pretty much where I ride as well, guess I'm one of the lucky ones then... My legs are testament to all the brambles!
AP123
Member
The same just happened to me.
You can put a dollar bill in between the tube and tire to get yourself home.
Coplowe64
Member
I’m pretty sure you will need some tubeless rim tape in addition to the valve and sealant.
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