Toughest enduro wheel (rear)

[jene]

I have my rear raceface ar30 wheel losing pressure due of a couple of hits. It's impossible to fix. I didn't use a mousse in the rear and not sure if I had used it I could avoid it. But right now I'm a bit tired.

I'm looking for a rear wheel that could be the toughest...

Perhaps the hope fortus 30?
Mavic ex1028 rims?

Any suggestion?

 

[George_KSL]

Pretty much anything will be improvement in durability. Arc are very soft, lightweight rims. Hence why they're specced on SL bikes like Orbea Rise, budget OEM model that lowers the published bike weight but won't survive heavier rider.

Unusual picks though, any of the +/- 600 gram rims from DT-Swiss will be great contenders and could be argued better engineered, at least compared to rudimentary Fortus. No opinion on Mavic, haven't seen anyone riding those in years.

 

[jbrown15]

Pretty much anything will be improvement in durability. Arc are very soft, lightweight rims. Hence why they're specced on SL bikes like Orbea Rise, budget OEM model that lowers the published bike weight but won't survive heavier rider.

Unusual picks though, any of the +/- 600 gram rims from DT-Swiss will be great contenders and could be argued better engineered, at least compared to rudimentary Fortus. No opinion on Mavic, haven't seen anyone riding those in years.

I think you mean RaceFace AR, Rises don't come with the ARC. And the ARC's are actually a pretty beefy rim.

 

[Mikerb]

DT Swiss HX 1500/1700

 

[jene]

DT Swiss HX 1500/1700

Stiffer than the ex511?

 

[Mabman]

Look into the new WTB HTZ rear wheel? I just got a mullet set but unfortunately am out of the game for a bit due to injury so can't say how they perform but they are very strong looking rims, and with that comes some extra grams of course but for me that doesn't matter as much as durability.

 

[Mikerb]

Stiffer than the ex511?

dont know but they have uprated rims/spokes/hub and freehub specifically for EMTBs.

 

[jene]

Look into the new WTB HTZ rear wheel? I just got a mullet set but unfortunately am out of the game for a bit due to injury so can't say how they perform but they are very strong looking rims, and with that comes some extra grams of course but for me that doesn't matter as much as durability.

yes, i have them in the list...But there´s no test yet...

 

[lumpy]

WTB HTZ I35 has worked very well for me and it's been well abused.
So has the Hunt E-Enduro wide

 

[JP-NZ]

DT Swiss FR1900 would be up there with their strongest wheels.

I've had good luck with Stans Flow EX3's too

 

[Orangie]

Industry nine

 

[jene]

Industry nine

View attachment 98967

really pinky

 

[jene]

What I'd like to do is buying the rim and change spokes and hub to the new rim...

Nowadays prices are so high that having the hub working properly and didn't break any spoke at this time, perhaps it's the best reasonable idea...

Old wheels are the raceface ar30 with 32 spokes Rueda trasera RACE FACE AEFFECT R30 29'' Eje 12x148 mm BOOST | Bikeshop and the new rim will be probably the wtb htz i30 (I had a good experience earlier with the wtb frequency i35 wheels) with 32 spokes.

Edit: The old hub is the Shimano mt510 FH-MT510 Center-Lock Rear Hub 12x142mm it's not suitable for enduro and not sure if it worths keep it or to change it now I change the rim... Anyway I had no issues at this time.

The only point that I'm not sure if could fit it's the size of the spokes...

 

[Pyr0]

EX 511 | DT Swiss

www.dtswiss.com

Or

HX 531 | DT Swiss

www.dtswiss.com

 

[Orangie]

What I'd like to do is buying the rim and change spokes and hub to the new rim...

Nowadays prices are so high that having the hub working properly and didn't break any spoke at this time, perhaps it's the best reasonable idea...

Old wheels are the raceface ar30 with 28 spokes Rueda trasera RACE FACE AEFFECT R30 29'' Eje 12x148 mm BOOST | Bikeshop and the new rim will be probably the wtb htz i30 (I had a good experience earlier with the wtb frequency i35 wheels) with 32 spokes (In this case I'd need a 32 holes hub, for example the dt350).

The old hub is the raceface trace Trace J-Bend Hub it's not a high class component and not sure if it could fail in the future but no issues at this time.

The only point that I'm not sure if could fit it's the size of the spokes...

Likely need new spokes for build.

 

[jene]

Likely need new spokes for build.

How to know which ones?

 

[Mcharza]

How to know which ones?

When you build a new wheel, don't use old spokes or nipples.

 

[Orangie]

How to know which ones?

Online spoke calculator

 

[jene]

When you build a new wheel, don't use old spokes or nipples.

Why? Is it related to loosen and tense it again?

 

[Mabman]

What I'd like to do is buying the rim and change spokes and hub to the new rim...

Nowadays prices are so high that having the hub working properly and didn't break any spoke at this time, perhaps it's the best reasonable idea...

Old wheels are the raceface ar30 with 32 spokes Rueda trasera RACE FACE AEFFECT R30 29'' Eje 12x148 mm BOOST | Bikeshop and the new rim will be probably the wtb htz i30 (I had a good experience earlier with the wtb frequency i35 wheels) with 32 spokes.

Edit: The old hub is the Shimano mt510 FH-MT510 Center-Lock Rear Hub 12x142mm it's not suitable for enduro and not sure if it worths keep it or to change it now I change the rim... Anyway I had no issues at this time.

The only point that I'm not sure if could fit it's the size of the spokes...

While I would never re-use nipples if the spokes are relatively new I would have no issue using them but of course new ones, I recommend Sapim Strong's, would be the best way.

Here are the size(s) you will need depending on the cross pattern.

 

[Mcharza]

Why? Is it related to loosen and tense it again?

You already got the answer, I think. Old spokes may be stretched or strained. New ones don't cost that much.

 

[jene]

You already got the answer, I think. Old spokes may be stretched or strained. New ones don't cost that much.

Thanks. Anyway, I'm not sure if really the material is suffering a lot with this process...Something for sure but not enough to break them in the next rides...

 

[jene]

While I would never re-use nipples if the spokes are relatively new I would have no issue using them but of course new ones, I recommend Sapim Strong's, would be the best way.

Here are the size(s) you will need depending on the cross pattern.

View attachment 98985

Thanks a lot man. I didn't find any that could search for the last existing rims and hubs. It's very useful.

Sapim strong aren't too much heavy to use it for a non gravity use? I mean, 2.0mm in the middle section and 2.3mm in the "j" where I never have broken any... I think it's not the best for my riding style. I have always broken all spokes in the head part close to the hole.. And there, the size of this spoke is the usual, 2.0mm...

 

[jene]

I think that finally changing the rim and spokes keeping the same cheap hub makes no sense thinking that it's not prepared for Enduro... But the question is that right now, hubs are really expensive (~200€) and it's really difficult to find any (dt swiss 350 classic 12x148mm CL MS)...

So another alternative could be buying an already made custom build wheel. Price is more or less the same as buying all parts...

I've seen two interesting builds for the rear wheel:
Wtb htz i30 + dt350 hybrid ratchet
DT ex 511 + dt350 ratchet

The first setup perhaps it's really heavy ~ 1.3kg (0.7+0.5+01. 2).. Perhaps wtb htz + dt350 no-hybrid could be the perfect combo but I can't choose them together :\

 

[Al-Rider]

Just buy the DT Swiss FR1950 wheel. It's one of the strongest wheels on the market