Too long Rise dropper post cable

[soundwave]

My M10 XL dropper post cable seems to be too long which pulls the motor switch cable too tight. Anybody else have this problem? These cables are also not clamped to the frame so they move and rattle which I would like to fix.

Can I remove the dropper post and cut the cable shorter? I have never done this so all how-to tips would be appreciated ?

 

[mark.ai]

The dropper cable at your lever end should just be a cable with a wire coming out of it (with no special connector on the end). The outer cable connects solidly against the lever hardware, and the wire is held tight by a screw.

So you can shorten the outer cable at the lever end - but don't shorten the wire to the same length! You need the wire to be longer than the outer cable still - you can shorten the wire after it is all connected again.

So you'll probably want to pull out your dropper post, so the end of the wire goes far enough inside the cable and you can safely shorten the outer cable.

The tricky thing I then find is putting the dropper post back and keeping the connector at the dropper post end tight and connected Make sure the outer cable is solidly connecting at both the dropper post end and the lever end.

 

[soundwave]

Thanks! An idea occured to me reading this - could I strip and cut the outer cable from the lever end, without cutting the inner cable? Since the outer cable is plastic and inner metal, this should be doable with precision and care. Then I wouldn't have to touch the dropper post at all.

 

[Bike&Beer]

Be careful as some cables have fine steel wires embedded in the outer cable so it would be hard to cut without damaging the inner wire. Not sure if it’s the same for all cables but I bought a jagwire cable for my other bike which is built like this:

 

[Bike&Beer]

Also suggest you clamp the cables to the bars to take the tension off the junction box. I did it with Velcro cable ties, works pretty well. Someone posted a pic of their setup on another thread

 

[Chicane]

Thanks! An idea occured to me reading this - could I strip and cut the outer cable from the lever end, without cutting the inner cable? Since the outer cable is plastic and inner metal, this should be doable with precision and care. Then I wouldn't have to touch the dropper post at all.

Nope. Pull the dropper out and disconnect the inner cable at the dropper. Pull the inner cable completely out of the house, then cut the housing. Then simply push the inner cable back through the housing and connect it all back up. I haven’t seen the Rise dropper and how the cable attaches, but this is basic dropper 101 and they all pretty similar to how they connect at each end. Hope this helps.

 

[jka]

Or, take it back to the shop where you bought it. It should never have left the shop that way. They should fix it right.

 

[RickBullotta]

Easiest solution is actually to discard the rubber mount that connects the display unit to the dropper cable and just attach it to your bar - a couple wraps of electrical tape will do it and it actually looks fine. BTW, this is NOT where the display unit should have been mounted. Lastly, I am not a fan of clustering all of your cables with a single tie like was done here. I would recommend pairing specific cables using something like these:

Amazon.com : E-outstanding 12pcs Bike MTB Brake Gear Housing Fixing Holder Guide S Style Buckle Clips Black Bicycle Cable Clips Rotating S-Hook Organizer : Sports & Outdoors

 

[soundwave]

Managed to cut the cable finally. I messed up the first attempt and pulled the outer cable too far into the seat tube so I had to drop the motor off to readjust the cable. I am posting some lessons learned about this into the chainring thread. About the cable - it seems to unwind easily after cutting. It’s probably a good idea to change the cable to a new one since it costs only a few euros. The outer cable is also very sturdy and hard to cut - it has a lot of metal shielding.

 

[Honzo]

Managed to cut the cable finally. I messed up the first attempt and pulled the outer cable too far into the seat tube so I had to drop the motor off to readjust the cable. I am posting some lessons learned about this into the chainring thread. About the cable - it seems to unwind easily after cutting. It’s probably a good idea to change the cable to a new one since it costs only a few euros. The outer cable is also very sturdy and hard to cut - it has a lot of metal shielding.

Did the same mistake and had to drop the motor off too. And because I did not have the tool to remove chainring lock ring I had to be a bit creative to open/tighten the motor bolts behind the ring... Meaning now I have some marks/scratches on the bolts... Not a big issue though.

 

[KennyB]

Managed to cut the cable finally. I messed up the first attempt and pulled the outer cable too far into the seat tube so I had to drop the motor off to readjust the cable. I am posting some lessons learned about this into the chainring thread. About the cable - it seems to unwind easily after cutting. It’s probably a good idea to change the cable to a new one since it costs only a few euros. The outer cable is also very sturdy and hard to cut - it has a lot of metal shielding.

With the proper tool, the inner and outer (or housing) are easy to cut, and to clamp a ferrule on the end of the inner, the inner is also far less likely to unwind. Park CN-10 is the one I use, there are cheaper and nastier ones.

 

[soundwave]

^ thanks, I really would have needed a tool like that

 

[KennyB]

^ thanks, I really would have needed a tool like that

There will always be a next time

 

[soundwave]

Placing the order as we speak… ?