Tips on removing a tyre please

[steve_sordy]

I bought a 29x2.5 Vigilante TCS Light High Grip TT SG tyre because of the reviews and I was favourably impressed with the tyres that came with my grandson's bike.

I run my tyres tubeless and have done for many years on different wheel sizes, different tyre brands etc. But I could not get this WTB tyre to engage properly on the RaceFace AR30 (30mm internal rim). One quarter of the tyre on both sides, opposite each other just would not pop onto the rim. Only when I removed the tubeless valve and used an inner tube could I get the tyre installed and properly seated; and I had to take it up to 60psi to do it. But when I came to remove the tube, the tyre would not budge. I tried everything. My arthritic hands were not up to it on this occasion, not even with tyre levers. I laid the wheel flat on my Black& Decker Workmate and pressed a hammer shaft down onto the tyre, resting the hammer head into my armpit. I pushed as much of my weight onto it as I could, so much that I was concerned that I might tear the sidewall. Nothing! I have the bruise to show how hard I was pushing.

In the end I took the tyre to my LBS assuming that the fit owner with his strong hands experienced in all the tricks of tyre removal would have no trouble. He thought the same, but after a few minutes he asked me to leave it with him overnight. I ended up ringing him at noon the next day and he'd only just managed it. Eventually, he had used a vice to grip the tyre while using the wheel as a lever. He got one side off and removed the tube. That was all I had asked him to do because I was going to refit the tubeless valve and go from there. But when I got home I thought I'd play safe and remove the tyre completely and then remove the rim tape, clean up and fit new tape, but this time make sure it was clear of the rim wall. But I could not get the second side off. I even gripped the tyre in the jaws of my workmate and tried the same trick as the LBS. I really thought I might tear the tyre wall, or even bend the rim. I gave up and took it back with the LBS. He said that he'd do it while I wait, but his trick with the vice didn't work this time, so I've left it with him. Not sure what to do if he can't get it off!

Coincidentally, the retailer (BikeInn) that sold me the tyre just invited me to write a review, so I told a shortened version of the above. It will be interesting to see if they respond

Any tips on tyre removal?

 

[Dustjunky]

Have the same problem mate ...it’s just brute force with your thumbs that will get them off ....be nice to know if there was an easy way

 

[Zimmerframe]

I hate to say it, but it really sounds like new bike day .....

 

[STATO]

AR30 have a hump the tyre has to push over to seat, so same has to happen in reverse.

How much/what type of rim tape does it have. Taping over the 'hump' on these type of rims can make them a bit too big diameter for a new tight tyre.

Removal for similar rims with grips often involves resting the rim on the floor (door mat) and standing on the tyre sidewall.

 

[Gary]

• Remove all air. No. MOAR than that.
• If using a tube undo locknut and push valve into rim to allow the bead to move freely
• Break bead.
• If using tubes. Remove MOAR air.
• Push all of the bead into the central rim well creating slack at the bead.
• Hook or push slack bead over rim edge one Small section at a time until it easily pulls over.

That's it.

In the case of a rim with either too much rim tape, no centra l rim well, a super stiff casing or a combination of all 3. Use tools.
Long metal tyre levers or a tyre seating tool (looks like pipe grips but with perpendicular curved tongs)

 

[Zimmerframe]

levers or a tyre seating tool

I suspect he was seated, he sounded pretty exhausted ..

 

[Zimmerframe]

Break bead.
Push all of the bead into the central rim well creating slack at the bead.
Hook or push bead over rim edge.
That's it.

I think, as with many of these things, experience and technique make a MASSIVE difference.

I remember the first time trying to put my e-wild rear on. Destroyed three plastic tyre levers .. then BENT ! two metal ones. Used a pry bar in the end - this was purely ineptitude !

The dh22's were pretty evil the first time, but I've advanced from totally inept to just pretty clueless , so I can take them on and off in about 10 minutes with a couple of plastic levers.

Half the people I ride with look at me like I'm mad and say - you just use your hands don't you ...

 

[Gary]

Oh. And if you're using tubes you may well find the bead slacker adjacent to the valve when trying to get the first section over the rim edge as you can get the bead right into the well everywhere except at the valve.

 

[Gary]

I suspect he was seated, he sounded pretty exhausted ..

View attachment 45547

Yes those.
Ive used them 3 times in my life and probably changed/fitted/removed 30000+ tyres

 

[Zimmerframe]

Yes those.
Ive used them 3 times in my life and probably changed/fitted/removed 30000+ tyres

Christ you get a lot of punctures ?

Just a tip, when trials riding, barbed wire fence is not good.

 

[Gary]

I think, as with many of these things, experience and technique make a MASSIVE difference.

Massively. It's not hard to learn though.
And you'd be surprised how many experienced mechanics still haven't

 

[GrandPaBrogan]

Sometimes warm soapy water helps applied around the tyre beads and rim lips.

I hesitate mentioning this because I’ve seen guys in utter desperation over-do this and either flood the tyre or use crazy slipperier alternatives like motor oil, Vaseline, butter... don’t use these as the tyre will be forever slipping against the rim after inflation.

Not a word from you @Zimmerframe! Behave yourself!

 

[Zimmerframe]

rim lips.

 

[steve_sordy]

@STATO Thanks for that diagram STATO, it confirmed something for me. Obviously I have been thinking about this a lot in the last 48 hours and I had come to the conclusion that the rim tape I had put on was too close to the rim wall. A you say, this increases the diameter of the parts of the rim that the bead has to rise over.

This is why I had decided to remove the tyre completely and strip off the rim tape and put on some fresh, but right down the middle this time. If it is my thoughtlessly applied rim tape that is causing this, then I want to get it sorted now. I don't want to be facing it in six months time when the latex has all dried out and glued it even more firmly to the rim.

@Gary Both your posts were a good summary of what to do. I honestly knew about all your points and have used them all as required. I like the simple instruction, "Break bead". That's the problem. The bead will not break. So far, to break the bead requires more force than I have been able to exert with and without tools. I will check tomorrow if the LBS guy has a tyre seating tool (I don't have one because I have never needed one, not even close!) I can't see why he would not have one, he sure seems to have at least one of every other tool in his workshop. I don't know, but can you use a tyre seating tool to unseat a tyre? Because unseating is what is needed. Let's assume that you can and that he has a tyre seating tool, but he still had to use a vice instead and use all the leverage of a 29" wheel rim. This was successful on one bead, but not the other. He said that no tyre he had ever come across had even been as solidly planted as this one. In my OP I may have implied he was young, but he looks to be mid to late 40's to me, ie young compared to me! It's his shop, so I believe it's reasonable to assume that he has all the usual CyTech training.

 

[Gary]

The bead will not break

Trust me. It will.

can you use a tyre seating tool to unseat a tyre?

Yes. You can also use your foot and the floor ?

believe it's reasonable to assume that he has all the usual CyTech training.

Not necessarily. Insurance will stipulate he has to have training. But it doesn't have to be Cytech. Even the highest level of Cytech training isn't very advanced anyway. And it doesn't cover any little known hacks or a lot of the little secrets/techniques you learn along the way. Plus stuff changes so fast in the industry every day's a school day.

 

[Dave_h34]

I had such a tyre rim combo, took 2 hours, much cursing and the use of a vice to get the tyre off. I don't know whether it will help, I really hope so, but afterwards I bought a cush core bead dropper.

 

[STATO]

Both your posts were a good summary of what to do. I honestly knew about all your points and have used them all as required. I like the simple instruction, "Break bead". That's the problem. The bead will not break. So far, to break the bead requires more force than I have been able to exert with and without tools. ....

Yeah these serrated / hooked / humped bead seats are making some tyres crazy tight. And then new tyres are always tight fitrst fit.
A full width tape will probably be fine, once tyres have loosened off, but yes it can make an already difficult task even harder. Take care with just a spoke hole taping, its easy to push it off centre with the force of a tight tyre. It can also be damaged when removing, all that force to unseat the bead jumps it straight into the edge of the tape and rips it.

 

[steve_sordy]

Trust me. It will.
..........

I used the wrong tense. I should have said "would not break". I was living in the moment.
Of course I know it will break eventually, when enough force is applied in the right place.

 

[Gary]

Width of the tape alone makes no real difference. But a tape that reduces the depth of the rim well can cause issues fitting.

 

[Rosemount]

Yes those.
Ive used them 3 times in my life and probably changed/fitted/removed 30000+ tyres

Door and door frame .
Can be used for removing screw bottle tops as well . Prolly 2 person job .

Open the door - jam the tyre in the hinged side of the door . Pull the door shut .

 

[Gary]

I'm not that weak

 

[Rosemount]

Well when the ice cream topping bottle top seizes one day .
You can use it to clamp the bottle top and twist it loose . The folks waiting for ice cream with topping will think you are a hero ! lol .

Edit ...
Could use the door / frame instead of those $100 multi grips is what I am suggesting . Not questioning your manly grip strength .

That PTS 1 tool costs $200 Oz dollar WTF ??

 

[Mikerb]

...and its basically just a £7 plumbers wrench!! Had one in my toolbox for years

 

[Mikerb]

I a tyre fitting bay they use a hydraulic press to break the seal on a car tubeless tyre. I would be tempted to emulate that using a car bottle jack??

 

[deksawyer]

Useful if you have a motorcycle nearby....

 

[GrandPaBrogan]

rim lips.

? I should've known you'd find a loop hole... ? no wait, I meant you'd come up with some kind of wise crack... ? no wait...

It's no use... I give up... ?

 

[ahlski]

I bought a 29x2.5 Vigilante TCS Light High Grip TT SG tyre because of the reviews and I was favourably impressed with the tyres that came with my grandson's bike.

Utilizo mis neumáticos sin cámara y lo he hecho durante muchos años en diferentes tamaños de ruedas, diferentes marcas de neumáticos, etc. Pero no pude conseguir que este neumático WTB se acoplara correctamente a la RaceFace AR30 (llanta interna de 30 mm). Una cuarta parte del neumático en ambos lados, uno frente al otro, simplemente no saltaba a la llanta. Solo cuando quité la válvula sin cámara y usé una cámara interior pude instalar y asentar correctamente la llanta; y tuve que llevarlo a 60 psi para hacerlo. Pero cuando vine a quitar la cámara, el neumático no se movía. Probé todo. Mis manos artríticas no estaban a la altura en esta ocasión, ni siquiera con las palancas de los neumáticos. Apoyé la rueda sobre mi Black & Decker Workmate y presioné el eje de un martillo contra el neumático, apoyando la cabeza del martillo en mi axila. Empujé la mayor parte de mi peso sobre él como pude, tanto que me preocupaba que pudiera romper la pared lateral. ¡Nada! Tengo el moretón para mostrar lo fuerte que estaba presionando.

Al final, llevé el neumático a mi LBS asumiendo que el propietario del ajuste con sus manos fuertes y experimentado en todos los trucos de extracción de neumáticos no tendría problemas. Él pensó lo mismo, pero después de unos minutos me pidió que se lo dejara toda la noche. Terminé llamándolo al mediodía del día siguiente y apenas lo había logrado. Finalmente, había usado un tornillo de banco para agarrar el neumático mientras usaba la rueda como palanca. Sacó un lado y quitó el tubo. Eso era todo lo que le había pedido que hiciera porque iba a reajustar la válvula sin cámara e ir desde allí. Pero cuando llegué a casa pensé en jugar seguro y quitar la llanta por completo y luego quitar la cinta de la llanta, limpiar y colocar una cinta nueva, pero esta vez asegúrese de que no toque la pared de la llanta. Pero no pudet quita el segundo lado. Incluso agarré el neumático con las mandíbulas de mi compañero de trabajo e intenté el mismo truco que el LBS. Realmente pensé que podría romper la pared del neumático o incluso doblar la llanta. Me di por vencido y lo recuperé con el LBS. Dijo que lo haría mientras yo esperaba, pero su truco con el tornillo de banco no funcionó esta vez, así que se lo dejé. ¡No estoy seguro de qué hacer si no puede quitárselo!

Casualmente, el minorista (BikeInn) que me vendió el neumático me acaba de invitar a escribir una reseña, así que le conté una versión abreviada de lo anterior. Será interesante ver si responden

¿Algún consejo sobre la eliminación de neumáticos?
[/CITAR]
[QUOTE = "steve_sordy, publicación: 234971, miembro: 1700"]
Compré un neumático Vigilante TCS Light High Grip TT SG de 29x2.5 debido a las revisiones y me impresionaron favorablemente los neumáticos que venían con la bicicleta de mi nieto.

Utilizo mis neumáticos sin cámara y lo he hecho durante muchos años en diferentes tamaños de ruedas, diferentes marcas de neumáticos, etc. Pero no pude conseguir que este neumático WTB se acoplara correctamente a la RaceFace AR30 (llanta interna de 30 mm). Una cuarta parte del neumático en ambos lados, uno frente al otro, simplemente no saltaba a la llanta. Solo cuando quité la válvula sin cámara y usé una cámara interior pude instalar y asentar correctamente la llanta; y tuve que llevarlo a 60 psi para hacerlo. Pero cuando vine a quitar la cámara, el neumático no se movía. Probé todo. Mis manos artríticas no estaban a la altura en esta ocasión, ni siquiera con las palancas de los neumáticos. Apoyé la rueda sobre mi Black & Decker Workmate y presioné el eje de un martillo contra el neumático, apoyando la cabeza del martillo en mi axila. Empujé la mayor parte de mi peso sobre él como pude, tanto que me preocupaba que pudiera romper la pared lateral. ¡Nada! Tengo el moretón para mostrar lo fuerte que estaba presionando.

Al final, llevé el neumático a mi LBS asumiendo que el propietario del ajuste con sus manos fuertes y experimentado en todos los trucos de extracción de neumáticos no tendría problemas. Él pensó lo mismo, pero después de unos minutos me pidió que se lo dejara toda la noche. Terminé llamándolo al mediodía del día siguiente y apenas lo había logrado. Finalmente, había usado un tornillo de banco para agarrar el neumático mientras usaba la rueda como palanca. Sacó un lado y quitó el tubo. Eso era todo lo que le había pedido que hiciera porque iba a reajustar la válvula sin cámara e ir desde allí. Pero cuando llegué a casa pensé en jugar seguro y quitar la llanta por completo y luego quitar la cinta de la llanta, limpiar y colocar una cinta nueva, pero esta vez asegúrese de que no toque la pared de la llanta. Pero no pudet quita el segundo lado. Incluso agarré el neumático con las mandíbulas de mi compañero de trabajo e intenté el mismo truco que el LBS. Realmente pensé que podría romper la pared del neumático o incluso doblar la llanta. Me di por vencido y lo recuperé con el LBS. Dijo que lo haría mientras yo esperaba, pero su truco con el tornillo de banco no funcionó esta vez, así que se lo dejé. ¡No estoy seguro de qué hacer si no puede quitárselo!

Casualmente, el minorista (BikeInn) que me vendió el neumático me acaba de invitar a escribir una reseña, así que le conté una versión abreviada de lo anterior. Será interesante ver si responden

¿Algún consejo sobre la eliminación de neumáticos?
[/CITAR]

Hola.

Hace tiempo tuve el mismo problema con una cubierta que se quedó completamente pegada a la llanta. Después de múltiples intentos no conseguí desmontarla.
Se me ocurrió meter la rueda en agua muy caliente un buen rato y fue mano de santo.Salió fácilmente con las manos y un par de desmontables.Espero que te sirva.

Saludos.

 

[steve_sordy]

Just in case anyone else didn't get the English version, this is what was said by @ahiski (Thanks, by the way).

Hi.​

Some time ago I had the same problem with a tire that got completely stuck to the rim. After multiple attempts I was unable to disassemble it.
It occurred to me to put the wheel in very hot water for a long time and it was the hand of a saint. It came out easily with my hands and a couple of removable parts.

Greetings.​

I suspect that the tyre may have softened more than the wheel expanded. It sounds well worth trying, after all the standard advice before fitting a new tyre is to leave it overnight somewhere warm.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

lucky you never had to fit an inner on the trail then!!!!!

 

[steve_sordy]

lucky you never had to fit an inner on the trail then!!!!!

I've had to do that a few times, but I have never ridden with the WTB Vigilante that is causing the problem. Once I realised how friggin' tight it was I realised that I had to fix the basic problem, which is why I want the tyre off the rim. Then I can remove the old rim tape that is (I believe) causing the problem.