The EBike Riding Data Thread

[Astro66]

I'm mad about Data. So I had a look and I couldn't find a thread that focussed on people just posting data from their rides. So I took it upon myself to start one.

So feel free to post Ebike ride data in here, and explain how you are using it to achieve your goals.

I'm using the Shimano Etube Ride App. My bike is a Merida e160 700, with 12 speed Di2 transmission, so all this data is automatically collected. The only thing I needed to add was a chest mounted bluetooth heart rate monitor.

Here's the stats and map from today. I feel I need to push my average heart rate up a bit.

Here's where I think the beauty of an ebike is shown. I adjusted the assistance to try and keep my heartrate in the Green Zone. And you can see I managed nearly 60% of the ride in the Green Zone.

But I want to keep it in the upper part of the green zone more often. So I'm going to aim to stay closer to 130BPM.

And this is where the automatic transmission shines, in being able to track which gears you are using the most. This is great data in working out the best chainwheel size. I could probably go down to a 30T - 32T chainwheel, to getting me using some of the higher gears.

But it was very muddy today, and I was keeping the bike geared low, to power through the mud.

You can also see I mostly used power mode Level 4 out of 15. And this was deliberate to increase heartrate into the Green Zone.

 

[steve_sordy]

Interesting. What is your plan on how to make sense of all the data from the barrage of info from people of different ages, different fitness, different bikes, different trails, different......

 

[rod9301]

I'm mad about Data. So I had a look and I couldn't find a thread that focussed on people just posting data from their rides. So I took it upon myself to start one.

So feel free to post Ebike ride data in here, and explain how you are using it to achieve your goals.

I'm using the Shimano Etube Ride App. My bike is a Merida e160 700, with 12 speed Di2 transmission, so all this data is automatically collected. The only thing I needed to add was a chest mounted bluetooth heart rate monitor.

Here's the stats and map from today. I feel I need to push my average heart rate up a bit.

View attachment 142274

Here's where I think the beauty of an ebike is shown. I adjusted the assistance to try and keep my heartrate in the Green Zone. And you can see I managed nearly 60% of the ride in the Green Zone.

But I want to keep it in the upper part of the green zone more often. So I'm going to aim to stay closer to 130BPM.

View attachment 142275

And this is where the automatic transmission shines, in being able to track which gears you are using the most. This is great data in working out the best chainwheel size. I could probably go down to a 30T - 32T chainwheel, to getting me using some of the higher gears.

But it was very muddy today, and I was keeping the bike geared low, to power through the mud.

You can also see I mostly used power mode Level 4 out of 15. And this was deliberate to increase heartrate into the Green Zone.

View attachment 142276

What gives you the heart rate data?

My minimum is around 55, max 170, and riding a Bosch bike, I'm in level 3 out of 4.

Most of my ride is in zone 1, similar heart rate average and max as yours.

I have to realy push to be in zone 2.

Maybe the zones are calculated differently?

I used a suunto and i programmed the zones myself

 

[Astro66]

Interesting. What is your plan on how to make sense of all the data from the barrage of info from people of different ages, different fitness, different bikes, different trails, different......

My plan is more to see how people are using the data. Listen to their explanation of what they interpreted from the data. Maybe even help them with interpretation.

For example. What I have learnt is that if I keep my heart rate in the green zone. I am far less fatigued the next day. This means my weekend rides don't impact other sports and activities I participate in. This includes feeling lethargic at work.

But the downside of not spending more time in the yellow zone, is I am only maintaining my fitness, rather than improving it. But I'm ok with that, because as much as I love riding, I don't want my riding to negatively impact the other aspects of my life.

I guess my work involves analysing data and drawing conclusions. So I'm keen to see if others are applying this to EMTB improvements.

 

[rod9301]

Actually my average is 108, max138 normally

 

[Astro66]

What gives you the heart rate data?

My minimum is around 55, max 170, and riding a Bosch bike, I'm in level 3 out of 4.

Most of my ride is in zone 1, similar heart rate average and max as yours.

I have to realy push to be in zone 2.

Maybe the zones are calculated differently?

I used a suunto and i programmed the zones myself

I bought this one, and it works really well. You just need to wet the contact points with your chest. I just lick them before putting on.

I'm finding I never lose signal and it's much more accurate than my watch.

You then just add it to the Shimano E_tube Riding App. The great thing about this, is it is linked to Strava and automatically shares the data with Strava.

You can see below where I added it to the Shimano App.

 

[Astro66]

Actually my average is 108, max138 normally

I talk to my doctor about my heart rate. And he tell me to try not to push it over 150, at my age. So I always increase assistance from the bike, when I start getting over 140.

 

[jeanmarc]

Great idea for a thread
I think measuring & gathering data is a good idea particularly as one gets close to the “senior rider group”… I use Apple Watch for measuring HR, keeping it to zone 3 most of the time, zones 4-5 hard rides being the exception. I also compute battery usage in Wh/km or Wh/hour for each ride (if that makes any sense), this gives me an idea of the kind of workout each ride provides.

 

[Dave238]

I'm curious how the kcal are calculated. Since it will display (at least with Bosch) without HR attachments, wonder if it's a general formula for distance (and possibly elevation change?) in each mode or actually using wattage. At the end of the ride I always think the kcal reading should be higher.

 

[Astro66]

I use Apple Watch for measuring HR, keeping it to zone 3 most of the time, zones 4-5 hard rides being the exception.

I find the chest mount monitors are more accurate and don't lose signal. I keep all the data easily visible whilst I'm riding, so I can make adjustments as I go.

My default visible parameters are :

Speed
Distance Travelled
Time pedalling
Remaining Battery Range
Heart Rate
What gear the bike is in.
What power level I'm in.

Some of this data is displayed on the Shimano Screen. But my old eyes much prefer the big phone screen.

I have this phone quad locked to the bike, and is my spare phone. I also normally take video with the go pro 12 I have quad locked in front of the handbars. Allows me to review any parts of the ride, as well as pull some pics off.

I have just ordered 150mm cranks, after changing the factory 165mm cranks for 160mm cranks. After changing crank length, I then monitor average cadence, heart rate and calories burnt.

So far I have noticed a much better ability to climb with the 160mm cranks, as well as no knee and back pain the day after an energetic ride. I put that down to reduced contraction of my knee and hip joints.

So it will be interesting to see the data and bio-mechanical impact of the 150mm cranks.

 

[Astro66]

The data is in. 150mm cranks looks to have had a positive impact on my riding. My cadence and heartrate is up. I spent a lot more time in Zone 3 and Zone 4.

And an extra bonus. No pedal strikes at all. I'll be sticking with the 150mm cranks.