That’s better

[Doomanic]

Riding proper off-piste this weekend was the first time I could have done with shorter cranks, although reading the trail meant I only had a couple of strikes anyway.
I was going to get 160’s on payday, but I’m tempted to go shorter now.

 

[Japuserid]

I bought 150 and 155, I went with 150 and my brother went 155, swapping bikes neither of us could really notice a difference between these sizes , both of us agreed that we would not go back to long 170mm cranks.

For me the 40mm reduction in rotational circumference has made a big difference in power delivery, I'm spinning faster without any additional effort and the 20mm increase in ground clearance is a game changer on technical climbs. I can pretty much pedal with impunity

I think it's worth mentioning that my inside leg is 760mm and all the research I have read clearly indicates that, although almost everyone would benefit from improvements in efficiency and health as well as produce more power with shorter cranks, some, with longer length legs might do better with slightly longer cranks 155 160 165.

The link below is a very short version, but gives a fairly good general guide.

Crank Length Calculation

 

[Kernow]

Just tried the measurement method , according to that Iam 160- 165 crank , but I have Cornish legs adapted for mining not running , it obviously takes a fat arse into account as my inseam is about 760 too ?. So I know Iam a little taller than you but it’s all down to having a bigger backside . ?

 

[Cheater guy]

Does anyone know much about the e6010 mode selector, will it plug into the e8000 system

 

[Bonz]

Anyone managed to get an E7000 controller yet?
Where can I get Miranda 150 or 155 cranks, they are hard to track down.

 

[Cheater guy]

Anyone managed to get an E7000 controller yet?
Where can I get Miranda 150 or 155 cranks, they are hard to track down.

I got mine direct from the Miranda store

 

[Kaelidoz]

This stock yamaha led display is pretty cool.
Easy to reach, small size, no dirt/water ingress, easy to clean, and super solid.
Trust me I crash this bike a lot .

 

[jsalas2]

I got mine direct from the Miranda store

Which Miranda cranks did you get that fit the shimano. Thanks

 

[Bonz]

Which Miranda cranks did you get that fit the shimano. Thanks

Miranda Delta SH are for Shimano Steps.
Have a look on their web site for details.

 

[Bonz]

I got mine direct from the Miranda store

Have ordered 150’s as they are out of stock in 155’s.
Store is closed until September 3 for Holliday’s.
Cost of freight to get them out here to NZ costs almost as much as the cranks themselves. Ouch!!

 

[Cheater guy]

Have ordered 150’s as they are out of stock in 155’s.
Store is closed until September 3 for Holliday’s.
Cost of freight to get them out here to NZ costs almost as much as the cranks themselves. Ouch!!

I know your pain, mine are shipping to Aus

 

[Jam2Ride]

Swapped in my e6010 switch and ks southpaw dropper remote... Waaay better than the big e8000 paddles and crap little ks remote.. Thanks for your help on this everyone

 

[StuE]

Swapped in my e6010 switch and ks southpaw dropper remote... Waaay better than the big e8000 paddles and crap little ks remote.. Thanks for your help on this everyone
View attachment 4584

Where did you buy the e6010 remote from ?

 

[Jam2Ride]

Where did you buy the e6010 remote from ?

Bike24 mate

 

[R120]

Just to bump this thread, here's a comparison pic of the e6000, e6010, and e7000 controllers.

Aside from being a lot more compact, the way the cable exits slightly higher up the body of the e7000 also makes a big difference to it not interfering at all with a dropper lever.

The e6010 and the e7000 also have proper firm clicks to their actions, meaning it is hard to accidentally change mode with them.

On both the e6000 and e6010 the cable exits lower down, and depending on the dropper lever can foul the throw of the lever, limiting placement options.

 

[R120]

And here's the e7000 fitted

 

[Kernow]

I like the idea of a positive click on the small black unit , making it harder to accidentally change , but no 3rd button for display setting which I like , I often find I’ve pressed a button by accident or miss selected due to vibration , especially on rough downhills and while using the dropper. Iam now lost with all the numbers , Iam referring to the grey buttons controller , the other one is just too big and ugly . So no perfect option really , I guess a lever controll for my reverb seatpost is what I need really .

 

[R120]

Have annotated

 

[jsalas2]

Just to bump this thread, here's a comparison pic of the e6000, e6010, and e7000 controllers.

Aside from being a lot more compact, the way the cable exits slightly higher up the body of the e7000 also makes a big difference to it not interfering at all with a dropper lever.

The e6010 and the e7000 also have proper firm clicks to their actions, meaning it is hard to accidentally change mode with them.

On both the e6000 and e6010 the cable exits lower down, and depending on the dropper lever can foul the throw of the lever, limiting placement

Thanks, a visual Is exactly what I needed to see.

 

[StuE]

I like the original controller and it works well with my Magura post

 

[Kernow]

View attachment 8816
I like the original controller and it works well with my Magura post

Have to agree I liked the original best for mode changing , mine began sticking which is the main reason I changed to the e6000 plus I like the extra button for info on the screen .
However it’s since been mentioned in here that the e8000 shifter can stick if it’s pushed too tight against the another clamp on the bars , so perhaps that’s all that was wrong with mine , Iam often tempted to go back to it .

 

[R120]

In terms of pure operation I actually think the e6010 is the best of all of them, however if you are running a dropper lever it can interfere depending on the setup.

 

[Master Link]

In terms of pure operation I actually think the e6010 is the best of all of them, however if you are running a dropper lever it can interfere depending on the setup.

The e6010 looks very big, but you say it is the best of the 3. if you don't mind me asking, why is it better than the e-6000 which is smaller and has the 3rd button?

I believe that the 2019 Vitus E-Sommet VR does not use the e8000 shifter, anyone know which one is fitted?

 

[Eckythump]

The 6010 has the third button too. It’s the 7000 which is 2 button.

 

[Master Link]

Thanks. So the e-6010 has a positive click when operated, but it looks huge in comparison with the e-6000. I need to see each of them 'in the flesh' to decide which one to install.

 

[R120]

I will explain what I mean.

The E7000 is the latest edition to the Steps family of controllers (which come on the 2019 E-Sommett) is the best in terms of use on an MTB in my opinion. This is because:

• It is compact enough to allow placement without interfering with other controls.
• It has a very positive click action, and tactile definition between the switches, which means you are unlikely to press the wrong button or accidentally change modes.
• It is by far the toughest built of all the switches, and a more resilient design than the others

The downside to it is that it does not have a switch allowing you to cycle through the displays on the screen, for me not an issue, but this ability has been sacrificed for the sake of compactnesss.

The E6010 is the controller from their higher end city bike/hybrid version of the Steps system. As such it has a bit more thought put into it than the basic E6000 controller. The basic E6000 controller has 3 equals sized switches, each of which require barely any push to activate and if being operated blind have no tactile differences, meaning it is quite easy to accidentally change mode or press the wrong button.

The reason I think that the E6010 controller is the best if taken in isolation (i.e ignoring the need to integrate with other controls, and whether being used on an MTB or a city bike) are:

• Where it sits on the bars when ideally mounted, kind of mimics the position of a shift lever, in that the buttons actually sit slightly below the bar, putting them in the ideal position for your thumb to reach.
• The buttons themselves are well made, and you get a positive click/action when they are pressed.
• The buttons are big enough not to miss them, and their is tactile differentiations between them meaning you won't accidentally use the wrong one
• It has the third button, in the form of a smaller button in between the two mode buttons, which allows scrolling through the menu on the screen.
• It is much better built than the e6000.

I hope that clarifies my thought on the switches.

 

[Master Link]

Thank you R120, a really informative reply that has answered all of my questions. Since I am waiting for the 2019 Vitus, it seems that I can try the e-7000 first and, if I think a third button would be useful, then look at the e-6010

 

[Kernow]

Good revue R120 , the other thing I dislike about my e6000 is when I turn the bike upside down I need a block under the bar grip to protect it , perhaps my comments on the size of the e6100 are just initial thought as I haven’t tried one or even seen one in the flesh

 

[R120]

I have mounted all 4 controllers in their "ideal" positions, so you can see how they sit on the bar.It is also worth noting that the E6010 sits quite a bit further off the bar than any of the others.

 

[Master Link]

I am not one for displaying a lot of info on my ride (too busy trying to stay black side down) so the e-7000 looks like it will be OK for me.