TCS system - another tubeless question.

[Dads203]

So chaps, 1 month into my EMTB ownership and I have a couple of punctures, first one was the delivery ride from the bike shop to home (22 miles). Managed to make it 17 miles before the first puncture and I suspect it punctured by another biker who sheltered under the same bridge during a heavy rain shower. Small hole through the sidewall. Tyre was fine when I stopped but would not inflate with a small pump I brought with me. Nothing found or stuck in the sidewall such a nail or thorn etc.

Anyway I digress, my new bike has TCS compatible rims made by WTD. I have bought some tubeless valves and tyre slime thinking that if the rim is TCS compatible I do not need rim tape? I noticed when fixing the inner tube that there is a red rubbery band in the rim covering the spoke fixings which I presume is a sealing band?

You are all going tell me now that I also need rim tape to change to tubeless.

Cheers

Dads

 

[Bones]

That red rubber band is to protect an inner tube. Dump that and fit some rim tape

 

[Dads203]

That red rubber band is to protect an inner tube. Dump that and fit some rim tape

Cheers for the reply
So the TCS label really means “ Fitted for - but not with “

 

[Mikerb]

Cheers for the reply
So the TCS label really means “ Fitted for - but not with “

T tubeless C compatible S system !

 

[Dads203]

Peaty’s 35mm Rim tape ordered, I’m hoping it’s a relatively easy task to do, it’s been quite a few years since I played with bikes.
Tubeless wasn’t even a thing when I last hopped on a bike

 

[Streddaz]

Peaty’s 35mm Rim tape ordered, I’m hoping it’s a relatively easy task to do, it’s been quite a few years since I played with bikes.
Tubeless wasn’t even a thing when I last hopped on a bike

Make sure the rim is nice and clean. Isopropyl alcohol is good way to remove any grease from the inside of the rim. Wrap the rim with the tape, trying to keep it fairly well in the middle, press it down so there's no air bubbles under the tape and allow about 100mm of overlap. A heat gun or hair dryer helps with some tape when it's cold, so it forms to the rim a bit better.

 

[Dads203]

Thanks for the help chaps, Rim Tape arrived today so I have everything needed now.

 

[Mabman]

Overlap the rim tape at the valve hole and use a sharp pointed knife puncture the valve hole in an X pattern rather than trying to make a round hole for it?

 

[johnnystorm]

With WTB rims there is often a very narrow red rim tape like a standard tape. Leave that one in as it fits in the centre trough and stops broken spokes poking a hole in the tubeless tape. Also with WTB they recommend that you buy tape 5mm wider than the the number on the rim, so 30mm tape on i25 rims, etc.

 

[Dads203]

With WTB rims there is often a very narrow red rim tape like a standard tape. Leave that one in as it fits in the centre trough and stops broken spokes poking a hole in the tubeless tape. Also with WTB they recommend that you buy tape 5mm wider than the the number on the rim, so 30mm tape on i25 rims, etc.

I bought the 35mm rim tape - Phew .
My rims on the WTB label stated they were 30mm wide so I did the right thing in getting the large width tape. That’s a first for me !

Looking at converting them tomorrow after work, quick question - I do have a compressor but will a 16g Co2 blast be enough to seat the tyres on the rims?

Cheers

Dads

 

[johnnystorm]

With WTB rims there is often a very narrow red rim tape like a traditional tape. Leave that one in as it stops broken spokes popping a hole in the tubeless tape. Any rimstrip tAlso with WTB they recommend that you buy tape 5mm wider than the the number on the rim, so 30mm tape on i25 rims, etc.

I bought the 35mm rim tape - Phew .
My rims on the WTB label stated they were 30mm wide so I did the right thing in getting the large width tape. That’s a first for me !

Looking at converting them tomorrow after work, quick question - I do have a compressor but will a 16g Co2 blast be enough to seat the tyres on the rims?

Cheers

Dads

If the tyres feel like a good tight fit then you should give your normal track pump a go first (with the valve core out makes it easier). The co2 should do it but I have heard people say that you should let all thenco2 out again and pump up normally as it can dry out the sealant faster. Never done it myself so can't comment from experience.

 

[Bones]

In the early days of MTB tubeless when we used to make non tubeless tyres and rim's seal, then word on the street was that early latex and co2 would react and corrode the alloy rim. I'm fairly sure it's not a problem with the latest fluid. Personally I use OKO fluid as it's water based and it's cheaper and works for me

 

[Paulquattro]

word on the street was that early latex and co2 would react and corrode the alloy rim. I'm fairly sure it's not a problem with the latest fluid.

Hi
Its the ammonia in some of the fluids which eats away at the alloy rims if there's any bare metal
I will always use ammonia free sealants

 

[p3eps]

Is that just a recommendation for WTB, or should we be fitting larger rim tape than the inner diameter on all rims?
i.e. putting 35mm tape on a 30mm rim?

I put Mucoff 30mm tape on my 30mm rims without any issue, but I'm sure I read somewhere a larger tape is better as it gives a better seal?

 

[Dads203]

Is that just a recommendation for WTB, or should we be fitting larger rim tape than the inner diameter on all rims?
i.e. putting 35mm tape on a 30mm rim?

I put Mucoff 30mm tape on my 30mm rims without any issue, but I'm sure I read somewhere a larger tape is better as it gives a better seal?

I popped onto the WTB website and found my rims (i30). On my rims they suggest 35mm tape so that’s what I went with.

Find the Rim tape on the website and use the drop-down to find the rim and it tells you. Good if you have WTB rims and very handy.

 

[johnnystorm]

Is that just a recommendation for WTB, or should we be fitting larger rim tape than the inner diameter on all rims?
i.e. putting 35mm tape on a 30mm rim?

I put Mucoff 30mm tape on my 30mm rims without any issue, but I'm sure I read somewhere a larger tape is better as it gives a better seal?

I believe its because some WTB rims have a vent hole or similar from the production process in the rim sidewall that needs sealing. My sonder alpha rims came with 20mm tape run along the centre just covering the spoke holes that I was very wary of but they have sealed up a treat. For me it's a balance. I basically want the edge of the tape to be somewhere that tyre levers aren't going to be near. That's either right in the middle or high enough up the sidewall levering off tyres won't touch it.

 

[p3eps]

I popped onto the WTB website and found my rims (i30). On my rims they suggest 35mm tape so that’s what I went with.

Find the Rim tape on the website and use the drop-down to find the rim and it tells you. Good if you have WTB rims and very handy.

View attachment 122715

I don't have WTB rims... it was more a general question. I've had Roval rims on my last couple of bikes, which come pre-fitted with tubeless tape... although it's not sticky - more like a stretch fit. My rear wheel kept making an odd rattling noise, which turned out to be clumps of dried dirt that had got into the rim. The way to fix this was to remove the tape, and shake the rim a lot. I then purchased 30mm MucOff tape (for my 30mm rim) and fitted. No issues sealing, has been rock solid for over a year.

I got some Industry Nine rims a few weeks ago. Again 30mm, and they came pre-taped. I wondered if I was ever to replace that, should it be with 30mm tape, or should I be getting 35mm?

 

[johnnystorm]

I don't have WTB rims... it was more a general question. I've had Roval rims on my last couple of bikes, which come pre-fitted with tubeless tape... although it's not sticky - more like a stretch fit. My rear wheel kept making an odd rattling noise, which turned out to be clumps of dried dirt that had got into the rim. The way to fix this was to remove the tape, and shake the rim a lot. I then purchased 30mm MucOff tape (for my 30mm rim) and fitted. No issues sealing, has been rock solid for over a year.

I got some Industry Nine rims a few weeks ago. Again 30mm, and they came pre-taped. I wondered if I was ever to replace that, should it be with 30mm tape, or should I be getting 35mm?

If 30mm tape was fine before it should be OK again. I recall back in the day using wide tape on skinny stans crest rims and spoiling the tape because tight tyres peeled at the edges of the tape because it went too high up the sides of the rim.

 

[p3eps]

If 30mm tape was fine before it should be OK again. I recall back in the day using wide tape on skinny stans crest rims and spoiling the tape because tight tyres peeled at the edges of the tape because it went too high up the sides of the rim.

I watched MucOff's instruction video for their tubeless tape, and they suggest using 30mm on a 30mm rim. I've also read a few articles saying to use 35mm tape on rim!

Not sure there is a right answer. Use what works for you!

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

I recently converted a rear non-tubless wheel and could not keep it from leaking at a single spoke. I taped it, installed tire and cushcore and it leaked. Pulled it back down and taped over the place it was leaking, put it all back together and it still leaked. Pulled it back apart and removed all the rim tape. Retaped the rim with one continuous strip and double layered it. Still leaked just as bad at the same damn spoke. I finely said screw it and put 4oz of sealant in it. Bounced it off the ground and spun it while it was hissing air for 5 minutes. All of a sudden the hissing stopped and it was good. Checked it the next morning and it was fine. Good sealant does wonders!

On the plus side, I am now pretty damn good at installing cushcore! lol

 

[Dads203]

So tyre is off the rim and I‘ve hit a wall.

Front tyre has a green band rather than a thin red band that WTB recommend leaving in, it’s from one side to the other side of the rim and looking at it I would suggest it won’t take tape well.

It’s got a slight texture to it so do I leave it in a tape over or cut it out?

 

[Mabman]

If that is bonded to the rim then it is all ready to go. If it is loose take it out and apply the rim tape you have.

 

[Mikerb]

I believe the reason some suggest using 5mm extra width than the rim is that the rim width is measured as a straight line between the rim beads whereas the tape follows the concave shape of the floor of the rim plus on many rims a further concave along the centre spoke line. The idea is to have tape covering bead to bead with all of it in firm contact across the floor of the rim.

 

[Dads203]

First wheel done, a bit of a faff to get the tape on and I have a few bubbles
in it where it overlaps, tried some hot air from the Mrs hairdryer but I couldn’t remove them all.

No issue reseating the beads but struggled getting the tyre inflated with my compressor setup, The gauge has stuck for some reason but it’s inflated
Let’s see if it holds air tomorrow, it does sound like a water bottle when I shake it though.

Cheers for all the tips and advice, very much appreciated.

 

[Dads203]

Front wheel when well but the back is now causing issues.
seated the beads no problem but I heard the sound of escaping air. Looks to me that the join on the rim is not quite right as this is the area that it’s leaking.

Is it my install? Or is the rim chuffed, I noticed that the i30 sticker on the rim started to bubble up so I’m presuming it’s a manufacturing fault?

No leakage of Slime?

 

[Dads203]

Any suggestions with this or should I just take the wheel back to the LBS and see what they say? I’m just a bit concerned the rim is compromised or have I just made a mess of the conversion, bike has only done 143 miles from new.

 

[Mabman]

While that is not optimum as shown I doubt it is a structural failure in the making and sealant should seal it up. You can certainly take it back to the shop though to see what they say?

 

[johnnystorm]

Any suggestions with this or should I just take the wheel back to the LBS and see what they say? I’m just a bit concerned the rim is compromised or have I just made a mess of the conversion, bike has only done 143 miles from new.

Iirc WTB rims are pinned rather than welded so the join can do this. As mentioned above, the sealant should deal with this before long.

 

[Dax]

Assuming it seals, I'd mention it to the bike shop when you take the bike in for service. Try to avoid any hard landings onto rocks

 

[Dads203]

Looks like it’s sorted now, the tyre deflated after 20mins so I left it for a couple of hours. Pumped up back up to 25psi and gave it a good shake. Woke up this morning and it’s still at 25psi.

I’ll get the wheel back on and go for a check ride