Talk to me about Mullets

G-Sport

Active member
Oct 7, 2022
324
259
Yorkshire
Yup the braid is doing its job holding the shape, possibly you should really have made a small inner sleeve to hold the shape and locate the join. Heat shrink tape works quite well and the heat sets off the epoxy. Carbon should be tapered at 100:1 if you want to do it precisely, 200:1 if you simply want to layup over the top as effectively you have done relying on the Epoxy glues strength.

From a more practical level, what you have done " works " and not all carbon repairs perhaps need to be "signed off" as the work I have done on aircraft needed. The art of a true master in carbon repairs though is when after the repair, the repaired piece weighs the same as it was before needing a repair.

A very good company to deal with and a great learning area
ALL carbon fibre relies on the shear and compressive strength of the epoxy that's just how it works.
The gap between the original tube ends was only around 0.5mm at most so I don't think that there was much danger of it losing it's shape.
I agree that this would not be acceptable in an aerospace "repair" but this was a non-aero modification so I was quite happy to add both bulk and weight (though it is probably only around 50g).
 

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,569
5,063
Weymouth
Well done on being brave enough to fashion this repair/modification. My concern would be that the force a cting on the chainstay are both lateral ( when cornering/whipping etc) and vertical. Personally I would have used a matrix carbon rather than UD given both weight and compression were not key factors, but if the job holds then fair enough.
 

G-Sport

Active member
Oct 7, 2022
324
259
Yorkshire
Well done on being brave enough to fashion this repair/modification. My concern would be that the force a cting on the chainstay are both lateral ( when cornering/whipping etc) and vertical. Personally I would have used a matrix carbon rather than UD given both weight and compression were not key factors, but if the job holds then fair enough.
There are two very strong layers of braid in there for any torsional load and the UD should be well able to handle any bending or tension. Hoop stress should be minimal and the braid is reasonably well orientated for that anyway. I wouldn't be surprised if this is very similar to (though thicker than) the original layup of the factory part.
 

Suns_PSD

Active member
Jul 12, 2022
522
439
Austin
View attachment 103894

Made a Jig to hold everything in the right place...

View attachment 103895

Sawed through and sanded ends down to taper into new material. Bonded joint with superglue to hold shape (not photographed sorry)


View attachment 103896

Did a first layer of braid to properly fix the joint for handling and check everything. Sanded this back to get another key...

View attachment 103898

View attachment 103899

Then four layers of UD carbon for the main strength and a final layer of braid. Cured at room temp for 24 hours then post cure in the oven.

View attachment 103901

Final gentle sand to prepare for paint then a hurried spray job just to keep UV off the resin and reassemble and ride ASAP.

View attachment 103902

Did slightly have my heart in my mouth cutting it, but I knew that if it all went terribly wrong I could (probably) buy a replacement chainstay and put it all back to normal.

Holy Hell I can't believe that happened.
 

Waynemarlow

E*POWAH Master
Dec 6, 2019
1,108
889
Bucks
Holy Hell I can't believe that happened.
Why not, the poster saw a conceived design change that suited him, went ahead and made the design how he wanted it, made a carbon fibre repair which is not uncommon in the bicycle world and has used it with success since. His opt out was simply purchasing a new lower stay.

Wish there was more like him on this forum as there's more than few who a mere chip on their frames would be enough to cause them to faint.
 

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