Studded tires on a mountain bike? Trek rail 9.7
- Thread starter jgeier
- Start date
I wouldn´t worry about the studs coming out, only worry would be clearance. I think you´re fine as your bike comes with 2.6 tires, but it does depend on how much the studs protrude from the rubber on the 45 nrth´s.
Too bad they don´t include the 29" in their tire geometry chart so you could make 100% sure of the clearance.
I have 2.6 Schalwbe ice spiker pro tires I plan on using on my Decoy when I get it.
I just put 29” Wratchilds to my analog HT, they were about same size than Bontrager 2.6” XR 4`s they replaced. Can`t say about how good studs will hold but I have 45NRTH Kahvas on my daily Focus Aventura commuter and maybe one stud has come off in three winters 
. Probably 3000km`s winter riding with them.
. Probably 3000km`s winter riding with them.- Thread starter
- #4
Would the bike being Electric affect this?I just put 29” Wratchilds to my analog HT, they were about same size than Bontrager 2.6” XR 4`s they replaced. Can`t say about how good studs will hold but I have 45NRTH Kahvas on my daily Focus Aventura commuter and maybe one stud has come off in three winters
Depends where you ride. On the roads, probably not. But on trails if you spin-out your rear wheel against something hard, you'll loose studs. And spin-outs are easier on emtbs.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
I would have to fit a mudguard over the rear wheel. The thought of my arse touching the rear wheel........
Absolutely you can and yes studs can and will occasionally pop out. It really depends on where and how you ride. Overall it makes a HUGE difference and is well worth it, sides replacing a few studs is normal and easy to pop new ones in as needed.
I run 29x2.60 - 27.5x2.25 but could also used 2.6 rear. Never lost any studs in 3 years but if you do they're easy to replace. Most important is to run in the tires properly. Friend of mine run 3.0-2.8 on same bike as mine.
- Thread starter
- #9
Would you recommend these tires? Schwable has a 29-2.25 ice spiker pro
Depending on terrain some are better/worse on hard/soft snow and ice so none are perfect and I have used Suomi the last 3 years and are satisfied with them. I used Schwalbe earlier and they're imo also good. To run them in properly is the most important if you don't want to lose too many studs.
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I have Suomi Tyres Piikkisika 29”x2.6” on my Levo. Probably best spiked tyres for mountain bikes, I mean riding and traction wise, quality is crap, they are thin, hard to get tubelles and lot`s of quality issues. Do not buy 2.25” ice spiker pro for a mountain bike riding, it`s totaly useless tire in snow. 2,25” Piikkisika is much wider, probably like 2.4” but 2.6” is probably best size for riding in different weather condition. But remember, no 2,25” Ice Spikers
2WheelsNot4
E*POWAH Master
I wear these in snow and ice conditions.
Schwalbe ice spiker pro
It states on them that you need to do about 30km on tarmac etc first to help bed the spikes into the tyre.
Schwalbe make a stud replacement kit(Studs and fitting tool) to replace any you lose, but I've used them this winter on snow/ice/slush and tarmac after the snow etc melted and while they make a hell of a racket on tarmac, I didnt have any issue with them coming loose as yet.
Though apparently they do come out, but the cheapness of the spares kit and the ease of refitting them means for the small price you pay and the overall benefits of staying upright, I dont mind that at all.
Schwalbe ice spiker pro
It states on them that you need to do about 30km on tarmac etc first to help bed the spikes into the tyre.
Schwalbe make a stud replacement kit(Studs and fitting tool) to replace any you lose, but I've used them this winter on snow/ice/slush and tarmac after the snow etc melted and while they make a hell of a racket on tarmac, I didnt have any issue with them coming loose as yet.
Though apparently they do come out, but the cheapness of the spares kit and the ease of refitting them means for the small price you pay and the overall benefits of staying upright, I dont mind that at all.
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2WheelsNot4
E*POWAH Master
And this you judge makes them the best ice tyre
And these you don't rate.
Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 29
Want to minimise ice-related downtime? Of course you do. Get some spiked tyres, then
singletrackworld.com
Review from 2015 version of the tiresAnd this you judge makes them the best ice tyre
And these you don't rate.
Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 29
Want to minimise ice-related downtime? Of course you do. Get some spiked tyres, then
That`s right.And this you judge makes them the best ice tyre
And these you don't rate.
Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 29
Want to minimise ice-related downtime? Of course you do. Get some spiked tyres, then
I was once riding with a guy who had these. I can tell you that our performance on soft snow was different level because of the tires. But if you are happy with these, I don`t arguee with that.
2WheelsNot4
E*POWAH Master
Have the physical,thermal and mechanical properties of snow and ice changed since 2015 ?Review from 2015 version of the tires
I must have missed that.
Not much - but rubber compound, technology and design have changed pretty much.
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Yes, studs will come out - as much from braking as acceleration. Get the 45NRTH stud tool and a big box of spare studs. It's very easy to replace them. I usually lose about 10 or so per ride. Interestingly I have similar tires on my fat bike and rarely lose any studs, but in general, I'm riding that in deeper snow/ice.
Utah Rider
Well-known member
Speaking as someone who just rode 33,000 ft in December on ice, I highly recommend Wrathchild 27.5 X 3.0. The best way, if you have the means, is keep a pair of studded tires permanently mounted tubeless on a second set of wheels. That way they are always ready and you can swap out wheels for dry locations. Don't listen to the bull crap about not using studs on ebikes. That is a warranty statement from the manufacturer. All studded tires loose studs during break-in. Studs are cheap and readily available. It takes hundreds of miles to embed the studs. Tire temperature also makes a difference as to how soft the rubber is. Anyway, I had carbon rims made from EIE that are UST tubeless. They have no spoke holes so there is no rim tape or places to leak air. You can get maybe two seasons tubeless before you have to throw in a tube because of casing leaks. The ultimate setup is to have a spare ebike set up for ice and another ebike for dry conditions. Cheers
Here is a Strava link that has some some of my ice bike videos. Thanks for viewing!
Here is a Strava link that has some some of my ice bike videos. Thanks for viewing!
Utah Rider
Well-known member
That is not my cyber truck! I just posed for a picture..
I bike with studded tyres from December to march on snow and ice. In the beginning a loose more studs as there are more rocks around. I use Nokian Piikisikka 29 2.6 or 2.8 on my Rail. The 45north tyres seems to loose studs faster than Nokian. Wrathchild is a bit better on pure ice, while Nokian is better on hard packed snow. I would never go narrower than 2.6 in the winter as it’s usually quite a bit of snow as well and you need the “float”. 2.8 is ideal if it fits your bike imho. I also run cushcore and tubeless as I really don’t want to fix a puncture in -10c, I rather bike slowly home
We have a group of people dragging car tyres and walking with snowshoes to prepare the track. They also got a Snowdog last year to help groom the track. It makes for really great biking in the winter
We have a group of people dragging car tyres and walking with snowshoes to prepare the track. They also got a Snowdog last year to help groom the track. It makes for really great biking in the winter
High Rock Ruti
Active member
High Rock Ruti
Just mounted the 45north 2.6 x 29's on the Pole, plenty of clearance. These tires have knobs with studs and (none studded) plan rubber knobs. They don't seem very slippery on rock or roads, but f-ing noisy. If the trail has snow covered ice, sudded is a must, 3 recent wash-outs, it's funny; solid ice is really hard!
The rest of time I'm not sold on studded tires. The snow upto 3 inches when fresh, compacts and grips, when crunchy, less compaction but the knobs dig in. Occasionally lower the power, to prevent slipping.
Is it me or is anything less than full power just awful?
Warm Regards Ruti
RickBullotta
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
The studs actually help around our area a little extra even when there's no ice because there's a ton of roots hidden in the snow that you can't always line up for because you can't see em! When it's really snowy out I just take my fatbike out, with 4.6" studded tires. It helps pack the trail in really well for subsequent rides on other bikes.
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