SRAM GX vs Shimano XT

[vman]

Looking to upgrade a Trek Rail 9.7 from Eagle NX to either SRAM Eagle GX or Shimano XT drivetrain - understand Shimano shifting is a bit different, would like to here any opinions if one drivetrain option is easier to live with ie. less time tweaking shifting adjustments and better wear in an EMTB use.

Also, anyone have experience with using an Alloy vs Steel front Chainring - other than more cost are the alloy one's proving less durable ?



Thanks

VM

 

[Spangoolies]

I had sram gx 12 on my normal bike and didn’t get on well with it. Had a lot of tuning problems and constantly fettling with it. I might have had a duff derailleur but I changed to shimano xt 12 and once set up I didn’t have to adjust it for the next 2 years that I owned the bike. Had a much better experience plus shimano has an adjustable clutch. My gx clutch didn’t take long to lose its effect, making the drivetrain very noisy and dropped a few chains. Once the sram clutches go, there’s nothing you can do to fix them. Shimano was night and day for me hence I’ve just upgraded to xt 11 linkglide on my e-bike. Was sold by the benefits of a modern drivetrain, big cassette range, decent shifting, increased durability and using a steel HG9 freehub body.

 

[vman]

Thanks for the feedback, I spent over 2 decades on 10 and 11 speed Shimano XT and Dura ace after I got tired of fiddling with my Suntour and Campy derailleurs. The bike currently has SRAM NX on it, which I am told is a ticking time bomb for an emtb, however with less than a thousand miles on it so far so good with it. Locally my two local bike shops and their head mechanics are both SRAM fan boys when it comes to any 12 speed drivetrain for emtb....this might have more do with people multi gear shifting EMTB's under full load with Shimano (vs. SRAM keeping you to one gear at a time) causing failure. Also, as the bike is a bosch gen 4, not sure if there is an ethirteen crank and rings that allows me to use linkglide.

 

[cookie70]

I've got sram and shimano on bikes here, just went to AXS on my EB. With cable shifting, I personally prefer shimano XT level, mainly for multishift. My sons enduro has GX on it and it works fine, he has never complained and it cops a beating. I'm not having to tune it anymore then my shimano so whatever shifter style you prefer I'd go with that. Obviously if you want the full shimano or sram you have to consider the freehub.
If the NX is working, just ride it until it wears out and then replace it. Be bugger all difference at the end of the day!

I'm looking into abandoning shimano just out of principle with their no repair/parts policy. I am not keen to support a company that expects us to throw repairable parts away and buy new stuff!

As for chainring, at the end of the day, this stuff wears out even alloy chainrings outlasts at least 2 cassettes so I would not even consider steel chainring on MTB.

 

[Spangoolies]

Thanks for the feedback, I spent over 2 decades on 10 and 11 speed Shimano XT and Dura ace after I got tired of fiddling with my Suntour and Campy derailleurs. The bike currently has SRAM NX on it, which I am told is a ticking time bomb for an emtb, however with less than a thousand miles on it so far so good with it. Locally my two local bike shops and their head mechanics are both SRAM fan boys when it comes to any 12 speed drivetrain for emtb....this might have more do with people multi gear shifting EMTB's under full load with Shimano (vs. SRAM keeping you to one gear at a time) causing failure. Also, as the bike is a bosch gen 4, not sure if there is an ethirteen crank and rings that allows me to use linkglide.

I have Bosch gen 4 using raceface crank arms. Still keeping the standard 104bcd spider and bought a new sram eagle steel chainring as it was only £13 the linkglide chain works fine on it. I went on the basis that some of the chainring manufacturers like raceface advertise their chainrings for multi speed chains eg 10-12spd so an 11 spd chain should be fine on a 12spd chainring using a chain guide.

 

[vman]

From what I can find it looks like Linkglide works with any shimano 12 or 11 speed chainring, not sure how it would work with a SRAM Xsync currently on my bike.
Is your bike a boost rear end ? ie. 148 mm ?
Which Race Face Crank did you use? I have not pulled the cranks on an EMTB yet, it seems that all the emtb crank and ring products seem to be some form of direct mount, so surprised to see you running a 104bcd spider, but hey if it all lines up and the Qfactor is right that's great.

Just saw that Race Face is selling an $100 Aeffect R Crank for the Bosch Motor they pair it with a Shimano 12 speed chain ring $21.

Thanks

V

 

[vman]

Internet answered my question on the crank options ie. 104 BCD with spider vs. direct mount options both work on a boost bike with Gen 4 Bosch. Still look forward to other folks feedback on SRAM GX vs. Shimano XT 12 speed as not sure I want to commit to the Linkglide stuff until I destroy more of the lightweight gear.

 

[Sander23]

I recently switched to gx axs mech and shifter on a slx cassette with xt chains and that's just briljant! Very smooth and fast schifting.
I stayed with xt cassette cuz its cheaper and it has the ability to change its smallest sprockets, wich I here and then destroy.

 

[Spangoolies]

From what I can find it looks like Linkglide works with any shimano 12 or 11 speed chainring, not sure how it would work with a SRAM Xsync currently on my bike.
Is your bike a boost rear end ? ie. 148 mm ?
Which Race Face Crank did you use? I have not pulled the cranks on an EMTB yet, it seems that all the emtb crank and ring products seem to be some form of direct mount, so surprised to see you running a 104bcd spider, but hey if it all lines up and the Qfactor is right that's great.

Just saw that Race Face is selling an $100 Aeffect R Crank for the Bosch Motor they pair it with a Shimano 12 speed chain ring $21.

Thanks

V

My bike is boost and came with raceface aeffect crank arms, onoff 104bcd spider and sram eagle xsync 12 chainring. The sram xsync chainring works fine with the linkglide chain. The chainrings run on a separate axle to the crank arms so the chainring can be whatever you want it to be as long as it fits a Bosch gen 4 and maintains the chain line. I would stick with the same size chainring (amount of teeth) as you may have frame clearance issues and I’ve read that some rail owners have had issues with chainrings eating into the chainstay. If yours is worn out then make sure whatever you replace it with definitely fits your frame. It’s held on with a lockring and rubber o-ring which should be replaced (threads on mine were shot and the o-ring was wrecked). You will need a special 8 notch 43mm tool to remove this lockring, I used this one and works fine: https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...TEEAHWDxAAwQwg8oAHoECAcQEg&nis=8&dct=1&adurl=

 

[PennywiseTheDancingClown]

Ive just gone from GX to XT and I'm very happy about it. It just feels.... better. And I really like the two way shifting (push or pull).

 

[vman]

Thanks guys very helpful

 

[vman]

I recently switched to gx axs mech and shifter on a slx cassette with xt chains and that's just briljant! Very smooth and fast schifting.
I stayed with xt cassette cuz its cheaper and it has the ability to change its smallest sprockets, wich I here and then destroy.

What chain and chain rings are your running ?

 

[vman]

My bike is boost and came with raceface aeffect crank arms, onoff 104bcd spider and sram eagle xsync 12 chainring. The sram xsync chainring works fine with the linkglide chain. The chainrings run on a separate axle to the crank arms so the chainring can be whatever you want it to be as long as it fits a Bosch gen 4 and maintains the chain line. I would stick with the same size chainring (amount of teeth) as you may have frame clearance issues and I’ve read that some rail owners have had issues with chainrings eating into the chainstay. If yours is worn out then make sure whatever you replace it with definitely fits your frame. It’s held on with a lockring and rubber o-ring which should be replaced (threads on mine were shot and the o-ring was wrecked). You will need a special 8 notch 43mm tool to remove this lockring, I used this one and works fine: https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...TEEAHWDxAAwQwg8oAHoECAcQEg&nis=8&dct=1&adurl=

Thanks so much for your response helped me out quite a bit.

 

[Sander23]

What chain and chain rings are your running ?

Xt chain and this chainring that came with my bike.

Bosch Direct Mount Kettenblatt 38 Zähne | Boost | für Bosch Gen 4 - Narrow Wide

Das Bosch Direct Mount Kettenblatt ist für E-Bike Modelle (ab 2020) mit Bosch Performance Line Cx Gen.4 Antrieb. Es wurde speziell auf die…

www.elektrofahrrad24.de

 

[vman]

Xt chain and this chainring that came with my bike.

Bosch Direct Mount Kettenblatt 38 Zähne | Boost | für Bosch Gen 4 - Narrow Wide

Das Bosch Direct Mount Kettenblatt ist für E-Bike Modelle (ab 2020) mit Bosch Performance Line Cx Gen.4 Antrieb. Es wurde speziell auf die…

www.elektrofahrrad24.de

Thanks

 

[vman]

I've got sram and shimano on bikes here, just went to AXS on my EB. With cable shifting, I personally prefer shimano XT level, mainly for multishift. My sons enduro has GX on it and it works fine, he has never complained and it cops a beating. I'm not having to tune it anymore then my shimano so whatever shifter style you prefer I'd go with that. Obviously if you want the full shimano or sram you have to consider the freehub.
If the NX is working, just ride it until it wears out and then replace it. Be bugger all difference at the end of the day!

I'm looking into abandoning shimano just out of principle with their no repair/parts policy. I am not keen to support a company that expects us to throw repairable parts away and buy new stuff!

As for chainring, at the end of the day, this stuff wears out even alloy chainrings outlasts at least 2 cassettes so I would not even consider steel chainring on MTB.

Makes sense thanks for taking the time to respond

 

[Growmac]

I run XT on my ebike and GX on my regular bike.

Shimano shifts a little more smoothly, and the cassette is much lighter and in theory you can replace just the smallest couple of cogs as they wear. I've had problems with having to service and replace the clutch (I ride a LOT in the wet and mud), but it's a very easy procedure.

GX is a very decisive shift, and the mech is very fussy about the hanger alignment being spot on (although the recent stuff seems less fussy than the first 12 speed version). My current setup is a little lazy about going into 12th, although that may be mech wear as it's about 3,000 km in now?

Overall, no strong preference, they're both fine. I've not bothered switching to one or the other.

 

[vman]

I run XT on my ebike and GX on my regular bike.

Shimano shifts a little more smoothly, and the cassette is much lighter and in theory you can replace just the smallest couple of cogs as they wear. I've had problems with having to service and replace the clutch (I ride a LOT in the wet and mud), but it's a very easy procedure.

GX is a very decisive shift, and the mech is very fussy about the hanger alignment being spot on (although the recent stuff seems less fussy than the first 12 speed version). My current setup is a little lazy about going into 12th, although that may be mech wear as it's about 3,000 km in now?

Overall, no strong preference, they're both fine. I've not bothered switching to one or the other.

Thanks for the feedback, really helpful.

V

 

[JP-NZ]

FWIW the XT is comparable to SRAM X01. SLX is the equivalent of SRAM GX.

 

[Mikerb]

If you run SRAM Eagle the NX mech is a weak link after a while because it develops play and the simplest upgrade is go GX or X01 mech both of which are a straight swop ( all Eagle components are compatible with each other). I run X01 mech on one bike with GX cassette and chain and Eagle Sync2 steel chainring.............very smooth and requires little or no maintenance or adjustment. A further improvement is to replace the mech with GX AXS which I have on my other bike with all other Eagle components the same as my other bike. Neither bike runs or needs a chainguide. One bike use a 10/52 cassette the other a 10/50. 10/52 is overkill..........I have never used the 12th gear. GX cassette are one piece held with steel pins. Combined with a XG driver and preferably a DT Swiss ratchet freehub , reliability is excellent and maintenace both fast and easy.........not that much more than an annual inspection is required. As for XT I have no idea, I dont use any Shimano stuff.

 

[vman]

If you run SRAM Eagle the NX mech is a weak link after a while because it develops play and the simplest upgrade is go GX or X01 mech both of which are a straight swop ( all Eagle components are compatible with each other). I run X01 mech on one bike with GX cassette and chain and Eagle Sync2 steel chainring.............very smooth and requires little or no maintenance or adjustment. A further improvement is to replace the mech with GX AXS which I have on my other bike with all other Eagle components the same as my other bike. Neither bike runs or needs a chainguide. One bike use a 10/52 cassette the other a 10/50. 10/52 is overkill..........I have never used the 12th gear. GX cassette are one piece held with steel pins. Combined with a XG driver and preferably a DT Swiss ratchet freehub , reliability is excellent and maintenace both fast and easy.........not that much more than an annual inspection is required. As for XT I have no idea, I dont use any Shimano stuff.

Agree the easiest upgrade path is to replace the Rear Derailleur with a GX, been told you don't even need to change out the NX shifters. How much of pain was the setup on a AXS GX ?

Finally, any input on changing from the NX rear Cassette (heavier and more limited range) but only one SRAM calls EMTB rated, not sure if that means anything - it seems folks with EMTB are not having any unusual problems with the GX.

Thanks,

 

[Mikerb]

Duff info I reckon!! I use GX XD 1275 cassettes.............all gears are steel except the 12th so perfect for EMTB. If you go that route note you will need to use an XG driver since the cassette screws directly onto the driver without a nut. It is however removed using the same Shimano cassette tool as cassettes mounted on HG drivers. That arrangement together with the fact the cassette is one piece with a completely closed central section that screws onto the driver means the cassette is easy to clean in situ or when easilly and quickly removed with no danger of degreaser or water getting to the driver. On my bikes I have DT Swiss HX wheels and hubs. With the cassette removed it then just needs the end cap to be pulled off and the driver is then free to pull off the hub axle. So simple and quick but as said above I check it only a bout twice a year and it is always clean and dry and really needs nothing to be done.

No problem using the NX shifter with GX mech although the GX shifter again is higher quality. Whilt the GX chain is fine, again there is some benefit in going X01 chain which has a harder coating........but costs twice as much!

 

[vman]

Duff info I reckon!! I use GX XD 1275 cassettes.............all gears are steel except the 12th so perfect for EMTB. If you go that route note you will need to use an XG driver since the cassette screws directly onto the driver without a nut. It is however removed using the same Shimano cassette tool as cassettes mounted on HG drivers. That arrangement together with the fact the cassette is one piece with a completely closed central section that screws onto the driver means the cassette is easy to clean in situ or when easilly and quickly removed with no danger of degreaser or water getting to the driver. On my bikes I have DT Swiss HX wheels and hubs. With the cassette removed it then just needs the end cap to be pulled off and the driver is then free to pull off the hub axle. So simple and quick but as said above I check it only a bout twice a year and it is always clean and dry and really needs nothing to be done.

No problem using the NX shifter with GX mech although the GX shifter again is higher quality. Whilt the GX chain is fine, again there is some benefit in going X01 chain which has a harder coating........but costs twice as much!

Thanks for the information.

V

 

[Planemo]

I ditched my stock NX mech within 30 miles due to reading so many horror stories about them having crap longevity. I went with an SLX mech and whilst I was there fitted an SLX shifter - not cos the NX one was crap but shifters aren't a lot of money and I felt it made sense to keep the same manufacturers in case of indexing problems. I also went with an X01 chain as they were reported as having the best durability and I kept the stock steel SRAM 1230 (11-50) cassette and stock steel SRAM 38t chainring. The setup has been faultless and seems bulletproof. I still don't have any measurable wear after 1200miles so hopefully it will go a fair bit longer. Of course the whole lot is pretty heavy but I honestly don't give a monkeys on a 25kg ebike.

 

[Mr President]

've used many versions of Shimano and SRAM on pedal bikes over the years and a few SRAM 12 speeds more recently especially on the EBike @ 3000kms. Used to have a preference for Shimano but the GX set-up from SRAM has given me fewer headaches. I like the simple functioning clutch from SRAM and have not had to mess with it at all. Suspect there isn't a huge difference either way.
At the risk of hi-jacking the thread I had a vague theory that the high end Shimano groupsets offered weight saving and smoothness benefits, but no impact on reliability.
Though I'd test this out with the SRAM set-up on the Ebike, installing an NX chain at the last swap out.
Chain was 100 miles old when it broke on a ride. Inserted a quick link and it broke in another place. Luckily I had another spare link. Later in the day it started making a noise and I could see another cracked link, so shortened it and headed home. On inspection there were four further links with cracked plates!
The shop refunded the price and I switched back to GX with no problems since.
Is NX seriously inferior to GX or was I unlucky with the chain in question - or I also wonder if the part was genuine SRAM? See pics.

 

[Kluckers86]

Looking to upgrade a Trek Rail 9.7 from Eagle NX to either SRAM Eagle GX or Shimano XT drivetrain - understand Shimano shifting is a bit different, would like to here any opinions if one drivetrain option is easier to live with ie. less time tweaking shifting adjustments and better wear in an EMTB use.

Also, anyone have experience with using an Alloy vs Steel front Chainring - other than more cost are the alloy one's proving less durable ?



Thank

Looking to upgrade a Trek Rail 9.7 from Eagle NX to either SRAM Eagle GX or Shimano XT drivetrain - understand Shimano shifting is a bit different, would like to here any opinions if one drivetrain option is easier to live with ie. less time tweaking shifting adjustments and better wear in an EMTB use.

Also, anyone have experience with using an Alloy vs Steel front Chainring - other than more cost are the alloy one's proving less durable ?



Thanks

VM

So, I have gx on my analog bike and xt on my ebike. Mud wise the gx outclasses the xt everytime, whereas shifting with the xt is a joy. Gx is good but not as smooth. Gx will also take more abuse. Had an unfortunate off and the mech was fine. I’m on my second xt mech. It wasn’t happy with a trip to the world of rocks.

You’ll be fine with either.

 

[veryoldfart]

I am not sure this post adds anything new, but…

For me, its Shimano every time, despite their non parts replacement policy.

Smoother shifting, very easy adjustment, easy to fettle/fix/replace plus good parts availability.

Finally, I prefer to run 11 speed as I still think thats quite enough gears ( for an old fart) and means the chain is ( very marginally) stronger than a 12 speed, plus parts ( ie mech, shifter, cassettes, chains) all seem cheaper than their 12 spd equivalents…..

Done this on two S Works Gen3 Levos - perfect

 

[cp_erider]

I've got sram and shimano on bikes here, just went to AXS on my EB. With cable shifting, I personally prefer shimano XT level, mainly for multishift. My sons enduro has GX on it and it works fine, he has never complained and it cops a beating. I'm not having to tune it anymore then my shimano so whatever shifter style you prefer I'd go with that. Obviously if you want the full shimano or sram you have to consider the freehub.
If the NX is working, just ride it until it wears out and then replace it. Be bugger all difference at the end of the day!

I'm looking into abandoning shimano just out of principle with their no repair/parts policy. I am not keen to support a company that expects us to throw repairable parts away and buy new stuff!

As for chainring, at the end of the day, this stuff wears out even alloy chainrings outlasts at least 2 cassettes so I would not even consider steel chainring on MTB.

I've got 30 years on mtb's, some competitive. I loved the Eagle drive train when it came out but I did find it overly sensitive to minor cable stretch and basic shift tuning. But when it's "on", it shifts way fast, IMHO. At this point I have gone back to all Shimano simply because it tunes easier (IMHO) and shifts dependably, always. I just never have to worry, ever. I do like the clutch better as well. Same goes for brakes (LX or XT), tho there are lots out there for more money, less weight and more powerful for sure. They just work, never need bleed, etc. Maybe more than you asked for but thats my experience. Keep riding, regardless!

 

[vman]

Really appreciate everyone taking the time to provide real world feedback on my question.

V

 

[Hamina]

Also, anyone have experience with using an Alloy vs Steel front Chainring - other than more cost are the alloy one's proving less durable ?

SRAM (X-SYNC 2 EAGLE CHAINRINGS FOR BOSCH) steel chainring was much more durable than the steel chainring from E13 (E*SPEC DIRECT MOUNT CHAINRING - STEEL). If something had to be changed I would buy a spider to run cheap and more fancy colored chainrings but haven't had real need for that yet and afterall internet reading not sure what really is correct model for Bosch CX 4 gen.

Been running 5000km with GX derailleur and it has always worked without problem as long as:
- The bolt is straight
- The cable is ok
- The derailleur has not been hit to rocks (and even with clear marks it has worked well).

The couple of times I've managed to broke the chain it has been 100% user error as I've changed to lower gear at the same time when climbing uphill with big motor assistance. Nothing will last such abuse.

Despite all this I would like to try Shimano Linkglide but only for curiosity if it's any different. For reference I ride Shimano Saint 10speed in my DH-bike .