SRAM GX AXS Adjustment

[Bigkatoomer]

Just fitted the AXS derailleur to my new M10 Rise. Still have the original SLX cassette.

How did everyone else set the B-Screw? Did everyone use the tool SRAM supply, or some other method?

I've used the microadjustment, and I just can't get a clean engagement in all gears. There's usually a gear somewhere that has a touch of extra clicking.

Any advice for how close to set it by eye, or tips to get the perfect setting? I took a link out and that seemed enough too. Could this have an affect?

Thanks,

Will.

 

[Jackware]

Have you tried readjusting the upper and lower stops again so the DR knows it's position more accurately?

 

[XCDC]

I didn’t have to take a link out of mine. Used the SRAM tool and eyed it in, even indexed spot on 1st time:

 

[Rich-EMTB-UK]

Just fitted the AXS derailleur to my new M10 Rise. Still have the original SLX cassette.

How did everyone else set the B-Screw? Did everyone use the tool SRAM supply, or some other method?

I've used the microadjustment, and I just can't get a clean engagement in all gears. There's usually a gear somewhere that has a touch of extra clicking.

Any advice for how close to set it by eye, or tips to get the perfect setting? I took a link out and that seemed enough too. Could this have an affect?

Thanks,

Will.

The tool should line it up and indexing should just work without adjustment. The B screw can be critical to getting onto the biggest wheel though.

 

[RustyIron]

How did everyone else set the B-Screw? Did everyone use the tool SRAM supply, or some other method?

I've used the microadjustment, and I just can't get a clean engagement in all gears. There's usually a gear somewhere that has a touch of extra clicking.

I did the initial adjustment on the stand, just like in the instructions. Then I had my wife sit on the bike, and I readjusted the B-Screw a little further because she's not as heavy as me.

I've used the micro adjustment several times while on a ride, just to experiment and get things exactly the way I want them. "A touch of extra clicking" is a subjective observation. Keep in mind that there's nothing magic about electronic shifting. It's still just a sprocket pushing sideways on a chain to get it to fall off of a second sprocket and onto a third. Sometimes it makes some noise.

 

[kotto25]

The below video explains everything. I ended up just using a ruler. I also had my wife (plus a 40lb dumbbell) sit on the bike while adjusted it.

 

[Mteam]

Not a rise, but on my wild FS with Shimano xt cassette and gx axs derailleur I just set the b tension to as allow as much chain wrap round the cassette as possible without the derailleur fouling any of the cogs.

If you can't get it shifting cleanly you may have a slightly out of true derailluer hanger .

 

[Mikerb]

On my 12 speed Eagle I initially adjust B stop so that there is a 3mm gap ( use a 3mm allen key) between the closest teeth of the upper jockey wheel and the largest sprocket....with the chain on the 11th sprocket.

I have found in the past however, that B stop adjustment can have an impact on indexing depending whether the chain is brand new or worn in a little. The difference being a used chain has more sideways flex that a new chain. The result being a new chain works well with the B gap opened up a little where a used chain needs that B stop to be as close as is safe. In terms of indexing the difference is most noticeable between sprockets that have the biggest jump between number of teeth.

In general having set the upper and lower stops I index using the lever adjuster to get good changes between the smallest 4 cogs up and down. Then adjust the B gap to get the cleanest drop from the biggest cog to the 3 below it ( ensuring the B gap is enough to ensure no fouling on the biggest cog of course).

 

[salko]

Just fitted the AXS derailleur to my new M10 Rise. Still have the original SLX cassette.

How did everyone else set the B-Screw? Did everyone use the tool SRAM supply, or some other method?

I've used the microadjustment, and I just can't get a clean engagement in all gears. There's usually a gear somewhere that has a touch of extra clicking.

Any advice for how close to set it by eye, or tips to get the perfect setting? I took a link out and that seemed enough too. Could this have an affect?

Thanks,

Will.

For such symptoms I also suspect a bit bent derailluer hanger.

 

[soundwave]

I just installed the AXS to my M10. Since the white b-cap tool doesn’t work with the Shimano cassette, I decided to file off some plastic from it so that it fits/works. Question to others - have you all adjusted the b-cap on the sag position, i.e. have had somebody else help you with it by sitting on the bike? How necessary is this really?

 

[FrostyMugKiller]

I do all the indexing with the bike at 25-30 sag. I'll let air out of the shock and fix a ratchet strap to hold it in that position while I set the b tension. After that it only takes a few click on the micro adjust as the new chain wears into place.

 

[Rod B.]

Soundwave,

Adjusting your AXS derailleur with your bike depressed to the sag percentage you are using is important to smooth shifting. You can do the B-Gap adjustment at sag without somebody sitting on the bike. Here's how I do it.

The rear shock on a Rise is 210mm x 55mm. I like to run my bike plush with 30% sag. 30% of 55mm is 16.5mm or about 5/8th of an inch. I know others that run their shock a bit firmer at 20% sag. 20% of 55mm is 11mm or about 7/16th of an inch. Let's say you run 30% sag on your bike. With the shock fully extended, measure the distance from the shock's wiper seal outwards on the shaft 16.5mm or 5/8th. Take a piece of blue painter's tape (Easy to remove) and place the tape at 16.5mm or 5/8th on the shaft. Make a note of the shock pressure your are running. After doing so, let the air out of the shock until you can easily collapse your bike's suspension until it reaches the 30% blue tape sag mark on the shaft. Adjust your B-Gap to the correct setting.

As a side note, keep an eye on the micro adjustment button feature on the AXS shifter. I've depressed the small button accidentally on several occasions and it throws the shifting out of whack. I can usually tell when this has happened because the bike won't shift down onto the smallest cassette cog. It's a quick fix, but I wish the button was better protected.

 

[soundwave]

Thanks, two great tips!

 

[Bigkatoomer]

Hi all,

Thanks for the tips. Rod - Thorough as always.

Weirdly, I just can't get the setup right. Both limit screws are set back and not interfering. I've set the B screw at about 11mm from tip of biggest sprocket to tip of top idler unsagged, as I'd read this equates to 14mm at sag. I will check again with sag.

The bike is brand new, The AXS deraillieur is brand new and neither taken a knock by me, and looks in line by eye (in case it happened in the shop).

I can't get the microadjustments so I get a clean alignment in the large sprockets and still get a clean shift on the small sprockets. It's almost as if the shifting spacing doesn't match, but I know that can't be true.

What am I doing wrong? Is it bent somehow, or could the B screw be responsible for this issue?

 

[Rod B.]

Bigkatoomer,

How's it going brother? I had the exact same issue when I installed my AXS. The problem is that when the derailleur was installed and tightened, it was not rotated fully forward against the derailleur hanger. The trick is to loosen up the derailleur's mounting bolt and rotate the derailleur arm/body back and forth a few times. Make sure the derailleur is fully seated (As seen in picture) on the derailleur hanger and then retighten the bolt. You should then be able to adjust the High, Low and B-Gap correctly.

Let me know if that works for you.

Be safe,
Rod

 

[ARParkinson]

Sorry to add to an old thread but I have found this to be an issue with the GX AXS since owning one.

I've also ran Shimano XT/SLX Cassette and the shifting on the simpler, cable gears just can't be matched IMO.

I always find if I setup the AXS to shift the biggest 4 sprockets perfectly the smallest 4 gears never drop down or pick up nicely.

The middle range of gears can be a mixed bag.

Did anyone get it where you were happy with it?

Thanks.

 

[Mikerb]

2 bikes..one with the original AXS and 2 years old and one with the T Type Axs 3 months old..............both change gear immaculately and neither have needed any adjustment even after chain and cassette changes. Despite all the hype a bout T type I would actually rate the original AXS as better.....most of the time I cannot even notice a gear change other than the change in crank torque. The T Type does have the benefit of supposedly being a ble to change gear under load but I back off slightly out of shear habit and virtually never need that facility because I am used to reading the trail ahead. I would never go back to cable actuation....too slow and invariably needing cable adjustment occasionally.

 

[Mikerb]

Sorry to add to an old thread but I have found this to be an issue with the GX AXS since owning one.

I've also ran Shimano XT/SLX Cassette and the shifting on the simpler, cable gears just can't be matched IMO.

I always find if I setup the AXS to shift the biggest 4 sprockets perfectly the smallest 4 gears never drop down or pick up nicely.

The middle range of gears can be a mixed bag.

Did anyone get it where you were happy with it?

Thanks.

If you are referring to the original AXS you only need to use the second largest cog as a start point and check the change down one cog from there.....micro adjust one or 2 clicks on the pod with the button held in as required. Assuming the mech is properly maintained and fitted correctly it should then change to all gears without problem. I have never used the app for micro adjustement on individual gears...thats a recipe for problems in my opinion. With the mech ensure it is positioned correctly and also ensure it is clean and lubed.......... the area inside where the spring sits is easilly clogged with trail debris and the lever pivots can also have too much friction if not cleaned and lubed........ if it is not maintained there will be problems!