SRAM Code R brakes - opinions

[Timmoh]

Pulling to the bar and failing to stop, nearly having several crashes, was my main gripe.

What are brakes for?
Do they serve that purpose?
No, then they're not fit for purpose.

The one thing no-one has said is that they followed the Avid recommended set up of advancing the pistons with the pads out (someone earlier did alude to it) using a 1mm spacer card to stop the pistons closing tight.
The R's WERE shite until that process. Now, coupled with a good bleed and Uberbike pads, they are as good as most stuff-predictable, powerful and definitely have good modulation.
I have ridden motorbikes for years, from crosses to fastroad bikes, still do, and brakes are my first check-if not good, I move on. The speeds and weights we talk about with ebikes cannot even compare to hauling a CRF or R1 to a stop from nearly 3 figure speeds (honest officer, I said nearly).
Horses for courses I suppose, but confidence is a prerequisite for biking,and we all ride/feel different. Just don't get caught up in the ad man's ever expanding blurb net, and ride to the limits of what you can afford and enjoy.

 

[Singletrack Scene]

Had code Rs on my bike from new. They just weren't good enough. Tried pads, different pads, different bedding in procedures, bleeding, adjusting, cleaning/de-glazing the rotors, new rotors.

In the end I gave up and fitted Magura MT7s. The difference was night and day, with possibly twice as much retardation for a given lever force.

The only gripe I have with the Maguras is the pads don't last, but I switched to some Nukeproof ones now and the combination is pretty faultless now.

Try swissstop pads or Galfer pads

 

[2WheelsNot4]

Avid disc brakes - Black
Sram disc brakes - Black/Silver.
Shimano Disc brakes - Black/silver.
Magura disc brakes - Black/Silver - some coloured highlights Green,red,blue.
Hayes disc brakes - Black/Silver.
Hope Disc brakes - Black/Silver/Orange/Blue/Red/Green/Purple.

Outwith Hope, options for pretty colours are a bit limited, and not only do Hope look superb, they work extremely well too, which is something that can't always be said for the other disc brakes makers. Can't say the number of threads across bike forums and on you tube complaining that their Sram/shimano/magura/hayesbrakes wont bleed or work well and the myriad of 'fixes' being touted.

Stick with Hope

 

[nathdogg]

did not like mine either. swapped for hope & have not looked back

 

[Daverichardson]

My Code RSC's suck donkey balls. I've been riding them for four months. My Magura MT7's are scheduled to be delivered today.

I know which brakes are good and bad is relative to the rider. But I have a hard time understanding how people say that Code RSC brakes suck. They don't. The modulation is amazing and they will stop you on a dime if they are set up properly. They are SRAMs top of the line gravity oriented brake. Countless pros use them and they come on countless new bikes. I am always careful to say something sucks unless it's just horrible and cheap. The way a brake performs may not be good for you, but may be perfect for some else. But that doesn't mean they suck donkey balls. I also have had Magura MT7's, and I think they are great brakes as well.

 

[RustyIron]

The way a brake performs may not be good for you, but may be perfect for some else.

Right. At my level of riding, on the trails I choose to ride, SRAM Code RSC brakes suck donkey balls. But for you, they might be fine.

 

[Peter1979]

I would say that if your brakes aren't working well then it's either that they are broken and needs fixing (like a warranty repair/replacement) or they aren't set up properly (needs bleeding by someone who knows what they are doing). Gone are the days of avid juicys which genuinely did suck donkey balls.
I've no doubt the problems with my codes are a warranty issue with the caliper. The front one works amazing!

 

[Huw169]

I have RSC’s on my park bike and now R’s on my ebike. They are both fantastic brakes and do exactly what they are designed for.
Most issues will be down to how they are setup and maintained. If you can’t maintain the set you have, then buying a new set is not necessarily going to solve the problem as you will be in the same position at some point in the future. But the new ones will clearly feel superior for a while.

Things like understanding how to pull entrained air out of dot 4/5.1 before bleeding, and then how to evacuate air from the system end points goes a long way towards good and consistent brake feel.
The bleeding edge makes it very easy with the right fittings.

 

[Giff]

I had the Code R's and always thought they were lacking in any "feel". I tried different pads, cleaning, bleeding with a slight improvement and put up with them for a year.
Then I read this article in Mountain Bike magazine The best eMTB disc brake you can buy | E-MOUNTAINBIKE Magazine and it was a bit of an eye opener. It's not only stopping power but speed reduction....from 30km to 15km seems to be very significant.

After advice from a bike shop I bought and fitted Magura MT 5's and there is a significant and confidence inspiring difference.

 

[volts]

Over years of trying more than 10 different SRAM brakes, I find the best and most permanent fix for all SRAM brakes is to sell them and buy something that isn't so damn finicky and needs constant attention.

 

[The Hodge]

Apart from one ride with The EMF ..where the pistons needed a bit of freeing up ( this prior to starting the ride ) ..I've had zero problems ..no time spent on additional cleaning / bleeding or anything else other than the bike having a quick wash or dry clean at the end of each ride ..
I'm going to be sad when these current pads need replacing ( Uber) as they seem to have lasted forever with nary a squeak never mind a squeal ..and are doing what they are supposed to faultlessly..
Really happy with the Codes..sympathy to those having problems..

 

[MartinFa]

An update after quite a few rides...

I got wind of the new SRAM HS2 rotors - 2.3mm thick, so I got myself a pair of those to replace the junk ones that were on my bike: 220mm front, 200mm rear. I bled the brakes, during which I accidentally pushed one of the pistons out of the rear caliper, so I took them all out and cleaned them up hoping they'd then move freely. I got the Uberbike Matrix pads fitted.

Brakes are much better than they were, and I can even lock the back wheel now (haven't tried to do that with the front). But the pistons are still sticking, so I think the end is nigh for the Codes.

 

[Huw169]

What are these ‘lever to the bar’ comments?

If it does it straight after a bleed, then you haven’t done it properly.
I follow this.
At the end I pressurise calliper to give desired bit point.
Then the bite point has quite a short lever throw with no pad dragging, and they are strong as fcuk, but not grabby. Total control. I can lock up on any surface, but that is total overkill.

If it degrades over time, then get a rebuild kit (~£20) and then do the above again. Really no need to buy new brakes.

Codes are a pro level product, and I’m guessing 99% of you are not.

 

[volts]

Codes are a pro level product, and I’m guessing 99% of you are not.

Most brakes can be used by pro riders. Doesn't mean some aren't finicky and annoying. If you like codes, great. Use them.

 

[Gary]

No idea what you mean by a Code being a "Pro level product"? @Huw169 but the Code R is actually a pretty basic brake and fairly far off SRAM's highest end braking options. Its main concessions are that it lacks the swing link in the lever and has less adjustment. So lacks the quicker pad engagement and improved modulation of the RS and upwards .

The video posted above is a decent guide but do bear in mind it's a world cup mechanic bleeding an incredibly well maintained CODE RSC on a top 5 world cup racers race bike. A lot of what he does in the video isn't even possible with the CODE R. Getting the CODE R to bite as accurately and with a short lever pull is of course still possible. But not by simply following that video.

 

[MartinFa]

did not like mine either. swapped for hope & have not looked back

Do you know what adaptor you used for the rear when fitting the Hope brakes? On my E-160RS, my rear wheel has a 200mm rotor and the Whyte WHYFM200 adaptor, which is a pretty bizarre fitting as Whyte use a flat mount on the rear stay. Front adaptor for the Fox 38 forks would be Hope mount M. Thx.

 

[2WheelsNot4]

They do need to be set up properly

Not that old chestnut again.

Not having a pop at you mate but we've heard that for everything from canti's to v's to all types of disc brakes. It's seems to be the stock answer.

 

[D3xt3rMTB]

Just swapped out my Code R's after a year of riding with them (on my analogue bike). They were always a bit all or nothing for me in terms of stopping power and the bite point seemed to vary which made them a bit unpredictable. Very little modulation. Also, had an intermittent lever issue with a slow return that would be fine one ride and slow the next. Tried bleeding them, servicing, fresh pads etc but they were never great so moved to Hope V4s and difference is incredible. Have Shimano SLX on my ebike and they feel much better than the Code R's too.

 

[AccousticBiker]

I like the sram code R's. they do fade a lil when I descend 1400ft in a single run, but I'm sure any brakes would as the the parking lot the calipers and rotors fuming hot. I've never tried any other brakes but I did hear sram's are good for modulation and shimano are on-off and have a good bite. I like the modulation of sram brakes as they don't lock up and yet provide the braking I'm looking for. I mostly ride wet trails and lockup can be an issue.

 

[Huw169]

No idea what you mean by a Code being a "Pro level product"? @Huw169 but the Code R is actually a pretty basic brake and fairly far off SRAM's highest end braking options. Its main concessions are that it lacks the swing link in the lever and has less adjustment. So lacks the quicker pad engagement and improved modulation of the RS and upwards .

The video posted above is a decent guide but do bear in mind it's a world cup mechanic bleeding an incredibly well maintained CODE RSC on a top 5 world cup racers race bike. A lot of what he does in the video isn't even possible with the CODE R. Getting the CODE R to bite as accurately and with a short lever pull is of course still possible. But not by simply following that video.

Err, that is a code on a pros bike, as you stated yourself.
I have Code R’s and I follow video. Only difference is I have no bite point adjuster, and I pressurise calliper at and to give the bite I want.
Im on a 26kg ebike and 95kgs and ride mainly, not trail. And I can lock the wheels without the lever getting near the bar on any terrain. What more could anyone possibly need from brakes?

And all brakes are simple. They transfer non compressible fluid from one chamber to another.

I think most people just convince themselves they ‘need’ something that ‘might’ be better cos they can’t be arsed to sort the ones they have out, then get convinced by their own bullshit, then try and convince others.
Im not much of a ‘sheep’ that way. Codes work just fine for me, but to say they are under powered is just rubbish. I get some are harder to set up than others, but it certainly isn’t rocket science.

 

[Dazb]

Err, that is a code on a pros bike, as you stated yourself.
I have Code R’s and I follow video. Only difference is I have no bite point adjuster, and I pressurise calliper at and to give the bite I want.
Im on a 26kg ebike and 95kgs and ride mainly, not trail. And I can lock the wheels without the lever getting near the bar on any terrain. What more could anyone possibly need from brakes?

And all brakes are simple. They transfer non compressible fluid from one chamber to another.

I think most people just convince themselves they ‘need’ something that ‘might’ be better cos they can’t be arsed to sort the ones they have out, then get convinced by their own bullshit, then try and convince others.
Im not much of a ‘sheep’ that way. Codes work just fine for me, but to say they are under powered is just rubbish. I get some are harder to set up than others, but it certainly isn’t rocket science.

I set mine up recently, Followed one of the many videos on YouTube where they clean the pistons and oil them and they now work fine, I did have a problem with one of the pistons sticking but with a bit playing about and stopping 3 of them extending until the 4th freed itself I'm more than happy with them now.
I did change the brake pads as well which helped as the original ones on my Whyte 150rs squealed like crazy but I think that was my fault getting them contaminated whilst messing on with them.
I must admit I was losing faith in them but with a little time and patience they are easy to sort out.

 

[volts]

Err, that is a code on a pros bike, as you stated yourself.
I have Code R’s and I follow video. Only difference is I have no bite point adjuster, and I pressurise calliper at and to give the bite I want.
Im on a 26kg ebike and 95kgs and ride mainly, not trail. And I can lock the wheels without the lever getting near the bar on any terrain. What more could anyone possibly need from brakes?

And all brakes are simple. They transfer non compressible fluid from one chamber to another.

I think most people just convince themselves they ‘need’ something that ‘might’ be better cos they can’t be arsed to sort the ones they have out, then get convinced by their own bullshit, then try and convince others.
Im not much of a ‘sheep’ that way. Codes work just fine for me, but to say they are under powered is just rubbish. I get some are harder to set up than others, but it certainly isn’t rocket science.

It's good for you if you are happy about them. I dislike sram brakes and think they are shitty because where I ride they need a lot of maintenance to not get sticky pistons all the time and tbh I ride MTB to ride, not to fiddle with brakes. I just don't find it interesting. So for me it has been worth switching brakes. As stated previously I have had pretty much every sram brake there is, and I just don't like them (except for level brakes which surprisingly has been the best of the bunch for me). If you have a different opinion that's great. It's also great to hear you are not a sheep. I would think it hard to operate the brakes and also sit on the bike if you were a sheep. So congratulations on that as well.

 

[Gary]

Only difference is I have no bite point adjuster

Read my post again. That is not the ONLY difference.

I agree. Codes are fine. Even RS.
And I agree bleeding them isn't rocket science.
But following the video you posted still won't allow you to set up a Code R to feel the same as an RS/RSC.

PS. We don't all ride the same so rider weight and bike weight alone doesn't qualify whether a rider would benefit from a more powerful or more adjustable or smoother operating brake or indeed just a different brake more to their personal taste.

Don't know how much experience you have of them but SRAM's R levers are actually quite horrible in use in direct comparison to even an RS.
(I have both)

 

[RustyMTB]

I currently run three bikes, one with Deore one with Hope & one with Codes. The Deore has a sticky front piston that I've freed with Hunter lube & needs doing again, the Codes have suffered a seized lever mid ride which left me having to carry the bike home & the Hopes are prone to the phenolic pistons sticking in the bores, take forever to set up to the rider's preference & leak fluid if you invert the bike for example, to change a tube.

In my experience, brakes can be a bit hit & miss irresepctive of the brand but certainly all the types I've run have responded well to maintenance & set up. That suits riders who are into spanners. Those who just want to jump on & go, not so much. As ever in forums, the noise comes disproportinately from people with problems.

Honourable mention for Gorilla brakes sintered pads. I've stuck a set on my ebike for winter & dear lord they'll pull your face off when you haul them in.

 

[volts]

I currently run three bikes, one with Deore one with Hope & one with Codes. The Deore has a sticky front piston that I've freed with Hunter lube & needs doing again, the Codes have suffered a seized lever mid ride which left me having to carry the bike home & the Hopes are prone to the phenolic pistons sticking in the bores, take forever to set up to the rider's preference & leak fluid if you invert the bike for example, to change a tube.

In my experience, brakes can be a bit hit & miss irresepctive of the brand but certainly all the types I've run have responded well to maintenance & set up. That suits riders who are into spanners. Those who just want to jump on & go, not so much. As ever in forums, the noise comes disproportinately from people with problems.

Honourable mention for Gorilla brakes sintered pads. I've stuck a set on my ebike for winter & dear lord they'll pull your face off when you haul them in.

I have had Zee, Saint, Deore 2pot (old model), Deore 4pot (new model), SLX in various models and XT in old and new model and I haven't had a sticky piston yet but I have had a leaking caliper on 2 of the XT. I have also had many other brands, but so far I have to say the Shimano brakes has been the most hazzle free for me yet. They aren't perfect, but they work all the time (for me).
But you are right, all brakes can fail.

 

[Huw169]

Read my post again. That is not the ONLY difference.

I agree. Codes are fine. Even RS.
And I agree bleeding them isn't rocket science.
But following the video you posted still won't allow you to set up a Code R to feel the same as an RS/RSC.

PS. We don't all ride the same so rider weight and bike weight alone doesn't qualify whether a rider would benefit from a more powerful or more adjustable or smoother operating brake or indeed just a different brake more to their personal taste.

Don't know how much experience you have of them but SRAM's R levers are actually quite horrible in use in direct comparison to even an RS.
(I have both)

I have both too. RSC for 4 years on my normal bike. R for 2 months now on ebike which is getting the most use. If I don’t look at them, they feel the same to me and bleed the same.

Maybe I’ve been lucky, but in the 4 years we be had the RSCs other than change pads I’ve not touched them. Recently I did a overhaul on the rear as pads were dragging. Still braked fine. £13 calliper rebuild kit and quick bleed and it’s tip top again. I don’t clean then either as I just can’t be arsed. Never touched the front.

 

[Gary]

Function and condition of your brakes depends MASSIVELY on actual use. Frequency of use. Conditions and terrain ridden, riding style. (Eg. one ride a week brake dragging mincer to full time pro world cup DH pinner) not forgetting rider weight as well as cleaning and maintenance regime make a huge difference too.

4 years means very little.

SRAM brakes are not bad. Certainly no worse than the competition.
I'm also still running a set of SRAM guides on one bike which are over 5years old. (a few thousand miles of EWS standard steep technical Enduro trail riding). They've rarely needed any maintenance, Caliper pistons still haven't developed any stickiness but the lever master cylinders have needed replacing in that time . Plenty others out there may well have been through 3 or more different brake swaps in an attempt to find their "best" braking performance.

It is what it is. Baffles me the need folk have to jump on the Internet and blow a fanfare about their current particular chosen bike component manufacturers products while dissing everything else. (although there still are plenty products out there that are sub par and no ones QC is flawless)
All brakes eventually fail, deteriorate or at least need maintenance.
And finally most brakes are fit for purpose these days. Until they're not

If you're happy. That's all that matters.

 

[nathdogg]

Do you know what adaptor you used for the rear when fitting the Hope brakes? On my E-160RS, my rear wheel has a 200mm rotor and the Whyte WHYFM200 adaptor, which is a pretty bizarre fitting as Whyte use a flat mount on the rear stay. Front adaptor for the Fox 38 forks would be Hope mount M. Thx.

I left the orifginal mount on and just adapted the mount with grinder to give room for the magnet pick up

 

[nathdogg]

On the rear that is. I used Hope mount m on the front for 220mm. I kept the rears the same size

 

[Rich-EMTB-UK]

Run these on my TL and on my Yeti Arc, previously ran XT2's find these more progressive and no issues with stopping power when you have to pull hard on the levers.