SRAM Code bleeding issue

[Dave_B]

Why, after I have bled the rear brake can I still compress the lever to the bar? When applying force, the lever will slowly depress all the way to the bar.

Yet when I have the bleed syringe in, I cannot compress the syringe at all?

I have bled the rear time and again. But can’t get rid of this issue.

I have bled the front, it’s solid.

braked are brand new, only bleeding cause I shortened the hoses.

I’m using these olives and inserts for the rear. Are they the wrong sort?

 

[RustyMTB]

The olives look like stealthamajigs which are backwards conpatible with all SRAM & Avid hydraulic brakes, so they shouldn't be your problem, assuming you've assembled them correctly but on the syringe compression if you've locked off the rear syringe, then I would expect the front one to be solid. When the rear is open, you have done the push/pull thing to draw air out of the lever? If the lever goes to the bar & the system isn't leaking then you have air in there somewhere.

 

[Banktramp]

It’s a bleeding issue, take it to a bike shop and let a pro bleed it.
No disrespect intended but I had the same issue, it turned out I had a massive air lock even he had trouble getting out.

 

[Pumba]

Sounds like you have air still in the system so I would start the bleed process from the beginning again.

 

[TPEHAK]

I use different style bleeder - it is a cup attached to the top of the brake fluid reservoir. I attach the cup, pour the oil in it, bleed it, then let it stay for a while with attached cup with oil periodically shaking the brake line and squeezing the brake lever. Then I detach the cup and close the reservoir. Then I ride the bicycle. After a few rides remaining air bubbles lift to the top and I just add more oil into the oil reservoir, then ride it again for a few times and add oil if necessary until the brake lefer feels stiff.

 

[Dave_B]

Thanks.
why do SRAM recommend using two syringes? Can these brakes be bled like Hope brakes using a top reservoir and then using the brake lever to push fluid through as you open the bleed port on the calliper ? It’s such a simple process with Hope’s.

 

[C-J-79]

The best way I found to bleed SRAM brakes is not how they tell you too. I've bled them repeatedly with the same problem but found a solution. When you remove the lever syringe to replace the screw it lets air in which defeats the purpose of bleeding the brakes. I would remove this syringe first (once you've done the bleed) and replace the screw, then with the back syringe that has the one way valve I would put a little pressure on the syringe to push fluid into the system then remove it being careful not to spill any. The one way valve should close and stop any air getting in. I also use a slightly smaller wedge between the brake pistons so they stick out a little and aren't flush with the pistons. I've gone back to Shimano now. Not a fan of SRAM brakes.

 

[salko]

The best way I found to bleed SRAM brakes is not how they tell you too. I've bled them repeatedly with the same problem but found a solution. When you remove the lever syringe to replace the screw it lets air in which defeats the purpose of bleeding the brakes. I would remove this syringe first (once you've done the bleed) and replace the screw, then with the back syringe that has the one way valve I would put a little pressure on the syringe to push fluid into the system then remove it being careful not to spill any. The one way valve should close and stop any air getting in. I also use a slightly smaller wedge between the brake pistons so they stick out a little and aren't flush with the pistons. I've gone back to Shimano now. Not a fan of SRAM brakes.

This doesn't make a lot of sense ... when bleeding your lever bleeding port should be leveled to the ground, before unscrewing syringe at lever end you should make a bit of pressure on syringe, so when you unscrew the syringe a little oil will spill out of the port and then you immediately screw down the bleeding port, unless you are doing something really wrong here chances for letting air into the system are very low. But even if you do let in a little air, this air bubble should normally stay in reservoir (unpressurized) part of the lever and should not affect braking performance unless this air bubble gets into the pressurized part of the system - for example if you turn your bike upside down air bubbles in lever reservoir can go up towards the calipers and you have a problem ... so for maximum braking reliability make sure there is also no air bubbles in reservoir.

I had the same issue as OP with my Code RSC brakes, with me it was a bad hose, more info in this thread: Brakes problem.. (Code R, RSC and lever throw) - EMTB Forums

 

[RickBullotta]

Are you finishing with a proper lever bleed also? If you don't, there still may be air in the lever itself.

"Turn the bleeding edge tool clockwise 1 full rotation and until it stops to close the system. Pull the lever blade a few times and let it return normally. Next pull suction on the lever bleed syringe to create a vacuum. Then compress and release the plunger to pressurize the system. Repeat the process until there aren't many air bubbles coming up through the syringe line. One last time, compress and release the plunger to equalize the system. Close the syringe clamp and remove the syringe from the brake lever. Use a T10 torx wrench to reinstall the bleed screw in to the brake lever. Wipe away any excess brake fluid on the brake lever. Using a T10 bit socket and torque wrench, tighten the bleed screw to 1.5-1.7 Nm (13-15 in lbs). This is somewhat option because the torque spec is so low. Tighten the bleed screw snug but not too tight."

 

[Dave_B]

It’s ok. I’ve solved it.
I’ve removed them and ordered some Hope’s.

 

[RustyMTB]

Lol, they're a masive pain in the arse for bleeding.

 

[RickBullotta]

It’s ok. I’ve solved it.
I’ve removed them and ordered some Hope’s.

Exactly what I did. SRAM brakes are banned from any family bikes. All Shimano now but I picked up a set of Magura ML7's to give a try (speaking of hard to bleed...)

 

[stressballsteve]

The SRAMs can be a pain, but you need to be patient. Once you have done the first bit (pulling on the syringe at each end), close the bleed port at the rear and then compress and then extend the syringe at the lever end. You will get a lot of air out of it and I mean a lot, keep going with the push/pull from the lever syringe and eventually you'll get a perfect feel. On seeing all the air come out the first time you do it, you may well panic, but don't thats just how it works.
With regards to bleeding MT7's, use a gravity bleed, the same as you would for Shimano, whatever you do, don't push fluid from the caliper end without having either a syringe or cup there as you will blow the seals.

 

[Mcharza]

I use different style bleeder - it is a cup attached to the top of the brake fluid reservoir. I attach the cup, pour the oil in it, bleed it, then let it stay for a while with attached cup with oil periodically shaking the brake line and squeezing the brake lever. Then I detach the cup and close the reservoir. Then I ride the bicycle. After a few rides remaining air bubbles lift to the top and I just add more oil into the oil reservoir, then ride it again for a few times and add oil if necessary until the brake lefer feels stiff.

It's a style to bleed Shimano system, Sram bleeding is a different story.