Has anyone replaced spokes om a DT Swiss rim ? Are the spokes at each side, going to hub side or disc side, different lengths ?
Get a spoke ruler. Straighten the spoke pieces to your best ability and put the pieces on the spoke ruler. You will get pretty close — within a mm or 2. Spoke sizes can vary on every side of the hub dependent upon the lacing pattern and rim hole locations (straight or staggered). If the rims are carbon, you will typically have to tension things into a specific range as well.Has anyone replaced spokes om a DT Swiss rim ? Are the spokes at each side, going to hub side or disc side, different lengths ?
Now you tell us hahaThe broken spoke had a section missing so not possible to measure it.
It seems that most wheel manufacturers list their spoke sizes if you can identify the rim.
My experience with DT Swiss factory EMTB wheels (H1700) is that the spokes are a spec that is not available generally/individually, but they love to charge you an excessive premium for a "repair set" of spokes (if you can track it down) giving two spokes of each of the sizes needed for the wheel set (8 spokes total for front non-rotor/rotor sides and rear drive/rotor sides sizes).It seems that most wheel manufacturers list their spoke sizes if you can identify the rim.
Yes it wouldn't be a big deal to give you a few spare spokes when you buy a wheel would it. I got two spare with my Dawes 2011 super galaxy they came attached to the chain stay and still there. Abody is on the rob nowadays sadlyMy experience with DT Swiss factory EMTB wheels (H1700) is that the spokes are a spec that is not available generally/individually, but they love to charge you an excessive premium for a "repair set" of spokes (if you can track it down) giving two spokes of each of the sizes needed for the wheel set (8 spokes total for front non-rotor/rotor sides and rear drive/rotor sides sizes).
i.e. they sell you 8 over-priced spokes when all you need is one for a typical spoke breakage.
I know this because I managed to flat spot a rim just after I got my Commencal in 2020. Given 30 years of building my own wheels, I was able to stabilise the wheel until I got my hands on the spokes to do a full rebuild with a new rim (4x repair sets = £££££££).
FWIW, the repair set is aiming to provide spare spokes for a front/rear pair of wheels so it took looking at individual spoke lengths to work out that the fronts are within a mm of the rears so you can use all the spokes in a set to do a full relace of a rear wheel if you get organised about sorting the sizes for the pulling vs pushing spokes.
What obviously happened is that I never got round to rebuilding the wheel. It still carries on with its flat spot that thumps every revolution on tarmac but is unnoticeable off road. One of these days I'll get round to it. I've got the spokes sitting ready so I need to pull my finger out to buy the rim before they change the design (ERD) making the spokes all the wrong length.
Moral of this story is ... avoid factory wheels (unless you've got factory backup or are prepared to treat them as disposable). It's just galling because bike wheels are simple and well-developed. Straight pull just means that aftermarket spokes are difficult to obtain. Custom butting profiles (for EMTB) just means aftermarket spokes are difficult to obtain. Low spoke counts (but heavier spokes) give you net-zero gains of any meaningful performance but becomes the rationale for custom butting profiles. Sigh. Marketing trumps engineering.
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