Levo SL Gen 1 Specialized cable routing - help!! (Levo SL)

[ruppia]

Change brakes, really easy. The rear cable go thtow like a charme

luca

 

[Konanige]

There is a small grub screw next to the exit hole, this holds the liner in place, this has obviously worked loose and let the liner creep through the chainstay whilst riding. If your changing cables or pipes normally this means there is no need to fart about joining old and new together as its one pipe front to back. If the pipe falls into the frame you need to start fresh feeding from back to front and its a right old phaff. Moral of the story is make sure your nuts are tight on a regular basis.

 

[Shinn]

I'm planning on upgrading to guide or code RSC from the guide R's that came on my SL. Do I need to go thru this or can I just reuse the same hoses?

Thanks

 

[levity]

@Shinn - it’s really easy to pull a new rear brake cable through the SL frame using the barb connector. Much easier than having to do a full bleed if you disconnect the hose.

While you’re at it I suggest switching from SRAM to a better performing brand. I’m very happy with the Shimano SLX M7100 4 piston brakeset and 20O/180mm F/R rotors,. More power and better modulation.

 

[Shinn]

@Shinn - it’s really easy to pull a new rear brake cable through the SL frame using the barb connector. Much easier than having to do a full bleed if you disconnect the hose.

While you’re at it I suggest switching from SRAM to a better performing brand. I’m very happy with the Shimano SLX M7100 4 piston brakeset and 20O/180mm F/R rotors,. More power and better modulation.

thanks for the reply, I'm drawn to the RSC due to the ease of adjustment. Are the hoses and fittings compatible between the R's and RSC's

I've never had an issue with locking up the R's and don't have any long downhills less than 1000mi from me.

Not a sram vs shimano thing, if I just hated sram I'd most likely put a set of M7's on my SL

thanks again.

 

[Waynetta]

I’ve got my SL semi stripped down to replace the pivot bearings but I can’t separate the rear triangle from the frame due to the internal cable guides. Any ideas how to get them apart and more importantly how do I get the internal cable guide back in the right place once I’ve separated ?

 

[CjP]

Is there a screw under the chain stay that locks in the cable sleeve in either end of the entry/exit hole?

 

[Waynetta]

Is there a screw under the chain stay that locks in the cable sleeve in either end of the entry/exit hole?

Ha right. There is what looks like a grub screw but smaller than Any thing I’ve seen before. Tried a 2mm Allen key and way too big.
thanks. I’ll see if I can find a smaller Allen key.

 

[CjP]

Ha right. There is what looks like a grub screw but smaller than Any thing I’ve seen before. Tried a 2mm Allen key and way too big.
thanks. I’ll see if I can find a smaller Allen key.

Yeah, they’re a good idea but pain in the ass if you constantly play around with your bike. I yanked mine out to “save weight”. Also after hearing about cable sleeve rattle I figured I kill two birds at once.
I think I saved 50gs, huge difference to performance, so poppy now?

 

[Waynetta]

Yeah, they’re a good idea but pain in the ass if you constantly play around with your bike. I yanked mine out to “save weight”. Also after hearing about cable sleeve rattle I figured I kill two birds at once.
I think I saved 50gs, huge difference to performance, so poppy now?

You’ve removed the internal guides completely and binned? Any cable rattle without them?

 

[Konanige]

If its alloy there aren't any cable guides in side the swingarm. You should be able to gain enough slack without too much trouble just by pulling Hose and cable through a bit. They are a bit tight in there. If you end up pulling the gear cable out (as I did to replace) just fiddle the old gear inner through then use that to guide the outer.

 

[Waynetta]

If its alloy there aren't any cable guides in side the swingarm. You should be able to gain enough slack without too much trouble just by pulling Hose and cable through a bit. They are a bit tight in there. If you end up pulling the gear cable out (as I did to replace) just fiddle the old gear inner through then use that to guide the outer.

Mines carbon and if I can’t get at the bearing with the guide in the way I’m on the verge of binning them. Struggled yesterday so gave up still I’ve had a think how to get round it. My bearing extractor just won’t get at the bearing because the guide is blocking access. Bit of a pain.

 

[CjP]

You’ve removed the internal guides completely and binned? Any cable rattle without them?

Yes all my guides have been binned. I run the Hope Braided and it was too tight a fit. No rattles in mine.

 

[nB2000]

I know this will not help you now, but next time you rerouting the cables through the frame you might want to use your old cable to pull new cable in using some kind of a barb connector, it makes this process of replacing cables/hoses so much easier ... I hope you get this sorted asap ...

Apparently the way is to get a tandem gear cable and threat it through both the old outer and the new. Push/ pull it through.