Levo Gen 2 Spare Wheels for Winter Tyres on 2020 TL Comp

[EME]

As I frequently change between rides which are dry and rocky, and then loamy / muddy trails, I thought it a reasonable idea to buy a spare set of wheels to mount different tyres. The 'all round' set just doesn't seem to exist .
I have been investigating, prices for wheels do seem quite expensive but I have zero clue s to what I should get, any suggestions?

Then I realised I need spare rotors and cassette and Imm sure some other bits I don't understand.

Got me thinking, do most people who regularly move between conditions have multiple wheels ?

 

[Mcharza]

I have had, different sets for trail and bike park riding, but not anymore.

I remember, I had to adjust the rear brake caliber every time, because if the rear hub is from different manufacturers they always have small tolerance differences

 

[EME]

Thanks @Mcharza , so that restricts me to duplicating my OE wheel set-up as I understand it.

Surely the same manufacturer will be consistent ( mmmhhh, why do I think maybe not!)

 

[towzer]

Multiple wheels here, 20 levo, 29 (std) summer, 27.5 for winter. My previous ebike was a 27.5 so I kept the winter wheels when I sold it, with plans to sell/swop for winter 29s. I have subsequently found that 29 + butchers + mudguards + proper xc mud = stuck wheels at both ends ( due to mud jamming between the next to no clearance tyre/mudguard/fork brace/frame etc), I have found that using my old winter27.5s neatly solves this due to the decent clearance the smaller wheels give for mud to shed etc, so winter = 27.5 for me.

my hopes just direct swap, had to fit a rear disc spacer and bend the disc magnet to fit but no real prob.

 

[EME]

Multiple wheels here, 20 levo, 29 (std) summer, 27.5 for winter. My previous ebike was a 27.5 so I kept the winter wheels when I sold it, with plans to sell/swop for winter 29s. I have subsequently found that 29 + butchers + mudguards + proper xc mud = stuck wheels at both ends ( due to mud jamming between the next to no clearance tyre/mudguard/fork brace/frame etc), I have found that using my old winter27.5s neatly solves this due to the decent clearance the smaller wheels give for mud to shed etc, so winter = 27.5 for me.

my hopes just direct swap, had to fit a rear disc spacer and bend the disc magnet to fit but no real prob.

Hi @towzer . Can I ask you to bear with a 'numpty'?

I think you are suggesting no problem but I'm buggered as I don't understand this at all?

"""my hopes just direct swap, had to fit a rear disc spacer and bend the disc magnet to fit"""

 

[towzer]

my wheels are hope pro4 boost , so the same axle standard as my rovals , and were previously shimano equipped (rotor and freehub and cassette) as I bought them for spares on my Scott , which was XT/DT Swiss, but they fitted that as well.

so fit 200mm discs (as my code discs are 200mm). Apologies for the following sarcasm - Congratulation to shimano on 203mm rotors and sram on 200mm - nothing like compatibility and that’s nothing like compatibility..... one cars (say in broad Scottish)

the hopes were already equipped with an 11sp shimano freehub and xt cassette (*roval wheels are a sram cassette, beware freehubs are now either sram or shimano cassette specific - so I need to use a sram cassette on my rovals and a shimano cassette on my hopes - unless I buy the correct freehub for the base hub ) , this already fits perfectly and works perfectly with the sram mech/shifter.

I had to ‘move’ the discs about to get them lined up with the existing calliper positions and I managed this using a 1mm 6 hole disc spacer Link for info only Hope 6 Bolt Hub/Disc Spacer £2.50
on the hopes so when loading the wheels that they mated properly to the brake callipers.

I added a levo 2 bolt disc magnet but it clipped the levo speed magnet bolt at the bottom of the swing arm, so I needed countersunk torx bolts and to bash the magnet over a bit towards the disc (*do this in a vice) and now it all works fine - you will need slightly longer disc bolts for this - say 16/18mm instead of 12 or so for just the disc.

after doing that I can just change wheels, job done, winter tyres on

sorry, that a bit garbled but hopefully makes sense.

 

[Konanige]

I must confess Ifind it all a bit baffling, I just run the same tyres all year round, after all no tyre is perfect in all conditions

 

[EME]

I must confess Ifind it all a bit baffling, I just run the same tyres all year round, after all no tyre is perfect in all conditions

Excuse my asking but which bit is baffling ? The fact that tyre manufacturers make tyres for different conditions or that people buy them ? I'm unaware of anything sold as great in all conditions ?

 

[miPbiP]

Personally I wouldn't bother, find a set up good enough for most of your riding and stick with it. Most people I know - lots of frequent year round riders - do this.

As other have alluded it can be a faff setting up for different rotors, cassettes etc.

For less frequent, eg seasonal, changes just change the tyres.

 

[Konanige]

Excuse my asking but which bit is baffling ? The fact that tyre manufacturers make tyres for different conditions or that people buy them ? I'm unaware of anything sold as great in all conditions ?

Its just personal, I keep the same tyres on my jeep all year round and tend to do the same with my bike. I have found a combination that works in all conditions(for me) and find that if you consistently ride the same tyres you get to be able to predict exactly how they will handle in any conditions. If I were racing then it might be a different story.