So it's starting to annoy me....

[Bongofish]

The creaking coming from my bike when I pedal. It's.only when I pedal it's like the chain is very tight or something and when pedalling with the motor on it feels and sounds like the chain is creaking. Can I spray wd40 on the cranks and stuff and see if it helps? Freewheeling there is no creaks. @R120 you have this with yours?

I've watched loads of videos on e bikes and not seen it before. At first I just ignored it but now on longer rides I don't want constant creaking.

 

[ccrdave]

Assuming you have checked your chain with a gauge and its ok check the castle head locknut is tight.
The other areas to check is the motor covers, i took mine off grease the edges and put them back on without overtightening the bolts

 

[Bongofish]

Sorry I how do I check my chain and what am I looking for. Guess I'll need a tool to do this which I can buy. But then what am I looking for. New to all maintenance so I may sound daft but would like help

 

[Bongofish]

Also the bike has only done 60 miles so it shouldn't be wear and tear on the chain I wouldn't have though

 

[ccrdave]

You need to buy a chain gauge then it clips into the chain and tells you if the chain us stretched they are only a couple of quid from chainreaction

 

[ccrdave]

Ah ok probably not then but take it off and check for any tight links

 

[Bongofish]

I know I sound bad right now but tight links? What does that mean. If I take my chain off is it a link that doesn't move or? And what about wd40 on the cranks or is that not a good idea

 

[ccrdave]

Well as its new its unlikly but at least give it a good clean and lube
There can be a lot of things causing creaking like
Loose chainring
Engine boĺts loose
Engine covers too tight and not greased
Rear cassette loose
Cable routing not perfect
If the bike is under warrenty take it back and get them to check it over mate

 

[Dax]

Wd40 on anything is a bad idea, it is so thin that it dissolves any lubricant that its there and washes it away. Obviously it is too thin to act as a lubricant itself.

About the only thing wd40 is useful for is killing wasps, if you light it and spray it on them.

 

[Kiwi in Wales]

Wd40 on anything is a bad idea, it is so thin that it dissolves any lubricant that its there and washes it away. Obviously it is too thin to act as a lubricant itself.

About the only thing wd40 is useful for is killing wasps, if you light it and spray it on them.

Haven’t tried that one before, miniature flame thrower for wasps, brilliant idea?
Might not be a good to try out in front of the kids though.... might give them ideas ?

 

[Kiwi in Wales]

Wd40 on anything is a bad idea, it is so thin that it dissolves any lubricant that its there and washes it away. Obviously it is too thin to act as a lubricant itself.

About the only thing wd40 is useful for is killing wasps, if you light it and spray it on them.

Haven’t tried that one before, miniature flame thrower for wasps, brilliant idea?
Might not be a good to do in front of the kids though.... might give them ideas ?

 

[Bongofish]

Problem is I bought it from chain reaction cycles online so have no idea how you take it for a check up

 

[eFat]

This noise was the chainring. At first it looks ok, but after disassembling and cleaning it was gone.

 

[outerlimits]

This noise was the chainring. At first it looks ok, but after disassembling and cleaning it was gone.

Probs best to look on YouTube for some bike maintenance vids.
Chain cleaning and lubing with the correct lube for the conditions and checking chains for stretch should be high on the list.

 

[Bongofish]

I degrease and lube nearly after every ride. And I have all the correct gear with the actual chain cleaner tool from park tools and the chain degreaser from Muc off. Could using dry live be an issue?

 

[Gary]

Check the lock ring behind the r/h crank arm that holds the chainring spider on is tight.
You'll need to remove the crank arm to get to it. Both require the correct tools but can be bodged with a butter knife (for the HTII preloaded bolt) and pipe grips for the lock ring. It's a l/h thread on the lock ring.

Put the wd40 down. It's only going to damage bearings if sprayed on axles.

 

[eFat]

Probs best to look on YouTube for some bike maintenance vids.
Chain cleaning and lubing with the correct lube for the conditions and checking chains for stretch should be high on the list.

? Not sure what you're trying to say...

 

[Bongofish]

Also starting to wonder if this has anything to do with why it's so hard to get anything above 25kph pedalling. I heard about some bikes have some drag, but on this bike it hits that 25kph and it's like all of a sudden it's genuinely really hard to hit 26 kph on a flat. Like I've got to pedal really hard to get there and it just knackers me

 

[eFat]

why it's so hard to get anything above 25kph pedalling.

This one is easy, no more motor help!

 

[Gary]

There's no drag in the Shimano motor after it stops assisting. The drag you're feeling is the tyres and wind resistance. You're just not very strong/fit

 

[mark.ai]

In the worst case if your bike is assisting at 300% of rider power when you are going at 25km/h then when you go to 26km/h and the motor stops you would have to pedal 4 times harder than you were!

 

[Bongofish]

There's no drag in the Shimano motor after it stops assisting. The drag you're feeling is the tyres and wind resistance. You're just not very strong/fit

My mum says I'm a strong young man!

 

[Japuserid]

The creaking coming from my bike when I pedal. It's.only when I pedal it's like the chain is very tight or something and when pedalling with the motor on it feels and sounds like the chain is creaking. Can I spray wd40 on the cranks and stuff and see if it helps? Freewheeling there is no creaks. @R120 you have this with yours?

I've watched loads of videos on e bikes and not seen it before. At first I just ignored it but now on longer rides I don't want constant creaking.

Hi @Bongofish

Creaking, as you put it, more often than not is simply the result of something being worn, seized or more likely loose.

This is especially common on new bikes and just requires you to go around all the various components and make sure they are properly lubricated, if needed and tight enough.

The fact that you say, it is only apparent while pedalling would possibly point to loose crank arms or maybe even the motor's securing bolts perhaps, but it literally could be any thing that is being stressed during the pedalling process even your saddle could do this if not tight.

Take your time and go through everything bit by bit and by a process of elimination you will find it sooner or later.

Pedaling beyond the limit of assistance can feel like you are suddenly riding through treacle, some motors are better than others but as Mark.ai very clearly explains, even the best motors can leave you feeling let down as they rob you of assistance above 25kph.

 

[outerlimits]

? Not sure what you're trying to say...

Haha id10t error... I should of quoted Bongfish post not yours.

 

[1oldfart]

By any chance is it your shoe rubbing on your Ebike?

 

[Gary]

Bongofish sold his ebike and moved on almost 4 years ago

 

[RustyIron]

Can I spray wd40 on the cranks and stuff and see if it helps?

No. That's a terrible idea. Don't spray any lubricants onto your bike. You can apply lubricants to the outside of the chain, but ALL other lubricants go on the inside. No exceptions.

And WD40 is useless on a bike.

 

[RustyIron]

My mum says I'm a strong young man!

Hey! Me too!!!

 

[RustyIron]

Also the bike has only done 60 miles so it shouldn't be wear and tear on the chain I wouldn't have though

Ok, enough joking around. I know how frustrating it is when the bike is making noises it shouldn't. They're sometimes a nightmare to diagnose. But it's your bike, you ride it a lot, and there are a finite number of parts. You'll eventually find the source of the noise.

Here are a few thoughts I have about noises... EVERY part on the bike is a potential source of noise. The best way to prevent noises is to lubricate EVERYTHING before assembling. Bike shops don't do this, that's why a lot of new bikes make noise soon after the customer takes delivery. Every fastener should be assembled with anti-seize. Everything else should have thin layer of grease applied before assembly: axles, seatpost, stem, bottom bracket, steerer tube, cranks... everything. Just put a little grease on your finger and wipe it on whatever you're putting together.

Some noisy areas I've had over the years, in order of frequency, have been:
seat posts
headsets
saddle rails
bottom brackets
suspension pivots

It's hard to pinpoint the noise when you're riding. The frame is like a big soundboard, and a noise in one area might sound like it's coming from elsewhere. If you can reproduce the sound while you're in the garage, it can be immensely helpful. Stand alongside the bike when you're in the garage. Hold the saddle in one hand and lean the bike away from you. Take your knee and position it on the seatube, or somewhere else that you think is appropriate. Pull with your hand, and push with your knee. If luck is on your side, you'll get a creak out of it. Then move to the other side and try it again.

That's all I can think of for now.
Good luck.