Snapped lower shock mounting bolt on Sam2

[Telemarker]

Noticed clonking noise on my Sam2 yesterday coming from shock area.
I happened to be 1km from shop where I bought it.
Took it to shop and mechanic reckoned lower shock bushings worn out and to call another colleague on Monday to sort replacement bushing.
When I got home, i decided to take the shock off, and found lower bolt was spinning, but threaded end wasn’t turning on non-drivenside.
Got bolt out and it’s snapped at start of threads, couldn’t pull shock of as part of snapped bolt was still inside shock bushing.
Got the broken stub out carefully andeasily with a drill and extractor.

Big problem is the bolt has a 0.5mm less diameter worn groove in it where it sat in frame on drive side I.e. the worn bit is 7.5mm diameter and undamged bolt 8mm
Worse news is frame mounting hole is also very slightly ovalised about 0.15mm in vertical plane...
So not sure a new bolt will fix this long term.
Emailed shop with photos, And description
Hope it is covered by warranty

Any other focus riders had an issue like This? Or warranty jobs

Bike is 3months old and done 1000km

No ebike for time being either

 

[Dax]

It they won't warranty it, you would either need to get it bored out and put a bigger/stepped bolt in, or have it bored out and sleeved

 

[Gravityslave]

Out of interest, had you checked bolt torque at any point during those 1000km? I have recently pulled mine at 600km and not found any issue, wear or contamination, in bolt or bushing set. Did you remove the shock at any point? I checked my torque after 100, and again at 400. Shock bolts are renowned for working loose on any frame and should be checked regularly.

I am sorry to hear you have had this issue, a machine shop should be able to rectify and get you running as above.

 

[Telemarker]

I have never removed the shock.
I did check torque on bolts in April after I found a to put one slightly loose

 

[khorn]

instead of boring the hole bigger(weaker ears) I would recommend a good machinist that can weld the existing holes massive and then drill out a new hole to the stock dimensions. Opening the hole to the next size bolt means that you properly will have to go up at least 1 mm in diameter and that will remove a lot of strength in that area.

That is if there are no warranty, in this case they should give you a new frame.

Karsten

 

[khorn]

As a side note its obvious that the bolt to frame free play have been way too big from new. Other wise the bolt could not have looked so warn at this time and it is also obvious that the reason why the bolt broke in the first place is due to the grinding between bolt and frame.

Karsten

 

[Johnbalz]

To get by for now, why not just stick a longer bolt in and put a nut on it?

 

[Telemarker]

Going to shop this week, will try a new bolt and shock collar first. Monitor it and pursue warranty if issue reoccurs

 

[Dax]

instead of boring the hole bigger(weaker ears) I would recommend a good machinist that can weld the existing holes massive and then drill out a new hole to the stock dimensions. Opening the hole to the next size bolt means that you properly will have to go up at least 1 mm in diameter and that will remove a lot of strength in that area.

Fairly sure the heat from welding would loose more strength than overboreing the hole. Best talk to someone that does aluminium fabrication to be sure

 

[khorn]

Fairly sure the heat from welding would loose more strength than overboreing the hole. Best talk to someone that does aluminium fabrication to be sure

It can easily be done without loosing strength by the right welder, I know what I’m talking about.

Karsten