Should I use LBS to go tubeless?

[Bongofish]

I have the E-sentier and with a recent thread explained how it was slow at free rolling and seems to be down to the tires. Ok m going to buy some new tyres, haven't figured out which ones yet. Want a fast rolling good all rounder if any suggestions? My questions is I'm the least mechanical person you'll meet. I honestly would struggle to change an inner tube. I am planning on going on a bike mechanic course just need to find one local to me. Should I use a LBS to make bike tubeless or is it so simple I can do it by myself? Or if there is anyone close to Wakefield maybe someone could come help me and I'll give them a crate of fosters for there time?

 

[ccrdave]

It is simple if you have the right tools and you know the rims are prepared properly and you choose the right tyres.
If you dont have right stuff go to your lbs by the time you have bought all the bits needed it probably cheaper to take the shop route.
I would do it for you for a cup of coffee but im too far away mate

 

[R120]

Also going tubeless is not a one time job, you need to check the sealant and replace it periodically, depending on the brand of sealant - i would suggest if you are getting the lbs to do it asking them if you can do it with them.

 

[Doomanic]

You’re not going to get many offers of help if you’re planning on paying in maidens water, try offering a decent brew.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

DIY as eventually you will need to replace the tires anyway infact I wish I could get the Bosch Software as I dont want any shop going anywhere near my bike!

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

That's tough but if you have the interest it's not much different than following a recipe. With the internet you can learn how to do almost anything.You will need plastic tire levers, tubeless tape in the correct width, sealant, 2 valves and an air source. A regular pump might work but a higher pressure pump at a gas station or dedicated tubeless bike pump is better.

I use an airshot but most of time I can do it with my track pump - my top tip is cleanliness - make sure the rim and tire bead are spotlessly clean as any dirt will prevent a good seal and it will leak. Also before I inflate I "drizzle" some juice around the outside of the tire bead and make sure it runs all the way round the rim before inflating - obvioulsy with a generous slug of stans inside!

 

[galaga187]

DIY as eventually you will need to replace the tires anyway infact I wish I could get the Bosch Software as I dont want any shop going anywhere near my bike!

I just asked at Swindon cycles and they charge £15 a wheel for labour on tubeless conversions. The mechanic was doing one whilst I was in there and it was being a right pain. I was in there to pick up my old Orange P7 (the one you converted from single speed for me back in the day), forks and discs fettled.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

I just asked at Swindon cycles and they charge £15 a wheel for labour on tubeless conversions. The mechanic was doing one whilst I was in there and it was being a right pain. I was in there to pick up my old Orange P7 (the one you converted from single speed for me back in the day), forks and discs fettled.

Well they have to make a living I suppose but I am currently running these with stans:

Crossmax SLR X2 Pair, Crossmax SL X2 Pair, 819's X2 Pair, Stans Alpine 1 Pair, Cross Rides 1Pair, DT Swiss xm481 1 Pair - so thats 18 Tubeless rims so let me know if you need any doing!!!

Not long now to ordering the LEVO?

 

[galaga187]

Well they have to make a living I suppose but I am currently running these with stans:

Crossmax SLR X2 Pair, Crossmax SL X2 Pair, 819's X2 Pair, Stans Alpine 1 Pair, Cross Rides 1Pair, DT Swiss xm481 1 Pair - so thats 18 Tubeless rims so let me know if you need any doing!!!

Not long now to ordering the LEVO?

Well they have to make a living I suppose but I am currently running these with stans:

Crossmax SLR X2 Pair, Crossmax SL X2 Pair, 819's X2 Pair, Stans Alpine 1 Pair, Cross Rides 1Pair, DT Swiss xm481 1 Pair - so thats 18 Tubeless rims so let me know if you need any doing!!!

Not long now to ordering the LEVO?

Cheers that would be good, sounds like you've got it nailed. I've got a stan kit for 27.5 and 700 but not sure which bike rims are compatible to put them on. I'm following the specie updates on here and can't wait for the 18th.

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

Cheers that would be good, sounds like you've got it nailed. I've got a stan kit for 27.5 and 700 but not sure which bike rims are compatible to put them on. I'm following the specie updates on here and can't wait for the 18th.

re the stans kit I will depend on the width of the rim and if it is actually tubeless ready (ie with a welded joint and the correct bead - I am pretty sure all the FSR Levo's will be - and they probably come with the taped already applied - My Moterra did with the XM481's - so all I needed was the valve and the juice!

 

[STC]

I did my merida with gorilla tape and oko magic milk from ebay as has been said before make sure everything is clean . I used more sealant than is recommended on the bottle and an air compressor makes seating the bead much easier . Have a look on youtube and have a go yourself what’s the worst that can happen ?

 

[R120]

The new Muc Off kits are pretty foolproof for a first time install - and good reviews on the sealant itself.

Tub less valves and a chamber pump are a good investment too

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

Also if you are having trouble getting air in, get someone else to compress the tire from the top while you pump it - or you can multitask if you have an AIRSHOT - this will get it started

 

[MattyB]

Short answer to OPs original question.... No. If you want to go tubeless you need to know a basic things like how to tape a rim and how to get the tyre inflated and sealed first time. If you pay the bike shop to do this you will never learn those skills, so every time you have a problem you will have to go back to them to get it sorted losing riding time and costing £££s. It really isn't that difficult if you watch a few Youtube videos and get a few bits of kit (most importantly the track pump and an Airshot or similar device). So far I have done 5 wheels since my return to mountain biking; using Gorilla tape and a dry practice inflation using an Airshot I have had 100% success so far.

 

[Mission MTB]

I've done a few now. My observations:
Some tyres / rims are easier than others for getting the tyre on / off.
I just use a CO2 cartridge for fast inflate. Seems to work like a charm.

I got a new Canyon Torque recently. I was amazed at how easy it was to make it tubeless. The rims were already taped so I didn't even need to take the tyre off. Just popped the bead off on one side, took the tube out and put a tubleless valve on. It inflated perfectly with a Co2 can. You might be lucky too if it's 'tubeless ready'. Have a go... What's the worst that can happen? :-D

 

[MattyB]

I've done a few now. My observations:
Some tyres / rims are easier than others for getting the tyre on / off.
I just use a CO2 cartridge for fast inflate. Seems to work like a charm.

OK, but remember most sealants are not rated for use with CO2, so whilst it's fine for a test dry inflation you can cause issues in the medium term - the sealant will become ineffective much sooner, perhaps straight away if it "splits" (I believe this can occur with the ones that contain natural latex and ammonia, Stans is one of those I think).

 

[Mission MTB]

OK, but remember most sealants are not rated for use with CO2, so whilst it's fine for a test dry inflation you can cause issues in the medium term - the sealant will become ineffective much sooner, perhaps straight away if it "splits" (I believe this can occur with the ones that contain natural latex and ammonia, Stans is one of those I think).

Hmmm, I have heard something along those lines before actually. I've been using Stans for at least 3 years and inflating my tyres this way. Never had a problem. And when I've swapped tyres the sealant left in the tyre has still been liquid.

That said, I thought I'd look it up: Technical FAQ: Tire sealant questions – VeloNews.com

Looks like you're right! Oops.

Good tip on that article if you have to use CO2 to get home. Put the valve at 12 O'clock so the sealant sits at 6 O'clock, away from the really cold input.

Reckon I'll have to shell out on an Airshot or similar now. That's an expensive conversation!

 

[Mission MTB]

OK, but remember most sealants are not rated for use with CO2, so whilst it's fine for a test dry inflation you can cause issues in the medium term - the sealant will become ineffective much sooner, perhaps straight away if it "splits" (I believe this can occur with the ones that contain natural latex and ammonia, Stans is one of those I think).

Sorry I just realised I wasn't actually wrong, I just didn't post the full process (just got some new tyres for the Kenevo and was thinking about my process). I'm only using the co2 to seat the tyre on the bead. No sealant in the tyre at that point. Once I'm happy it's sealed, let the tyre down, remove the valve core, add sealant and pump up with the track pump. Sorry for omitting the detail.

 

[MartinW148]

I had mine converted to tubeless by LBS at the bikes first service.

They didn't charge for labour as it was covered under the first (free) service and only ended up charging me for the valves, even though they changed the rim tape and did the back wheel twice as first time he wasn't happy it was properly sealed.

Really happy with job, but one thing I would say is the back wheel still looked like it had some bubbling, i.e. a small leak, but this has since sealed itself after the first ride.

As for learning how to do it, the first time I need to change the tyres I will get the chance to see how it was done (professionally) rather than fudging it myself after one or more attempts.

The other thing I often think when reading these forums, we're buying £4k plus bikes without even blinking and suddenly paying £15 for the LBS to do something is too expensive. Supporting your LBS can only be a good thing....

 

[MartinW148]

On a separate note, how often would you expect to be replacing (or topping up) sealant?

Does this depend on ride time or does it have a time sensitive quality to it?

Also what are the signs it needs doing (apart from the obvious flat tyre), will it start bubbling around the leaks or just a slow loss of pressure like I used to get with tubes?


Thanks

 

[Mission MTB]

I had mine converted to tubeless by LBS at the bikes first service.

They didn't charge for labour as it was covered under the first (free) service and only ended up charging me for the valves, even though they changed the rim tape and did the back wheel twice as first time he wasn't happy it was properly sealed.

Really happy with job, but one thing I would say is the back wheel still looked like it had some bubbling, i.e. a small leak, but this has since sealed itself after the first ride.

As for learning how to do it, the first time I need to change the tyres I will get the chance to see how it was done (professionally) rather than fudging it myself after one or more attempts.

The other thing I often think when reading these forums, we're buying £4k plus bikes without even blinking and suddenly paying £15 for the LBS to do something is too expensive. Supporting your LBS can only be a good thing....

A good, well made. But... There is something to be said for learning how your bike works and how to mend it / upgrade it yourself.

I'm certainly not the world's best spannerer. I end up taking my bike to the shop on a very regular basis. I'm definitely on first name terms / social media friends with my LBS mechanic. But it's handy to be able to manage smaller jobs.

 

[MattyB]

A good, well made. But... There is something to be said for learning how your bike works and how to mend it / upgrade it yourself.

I'm certainly not the world's best spannerer. I end up taking my bike to the shop on a very regular basis. I'm definitely on first name terms / social media friends with my LBS mechanic. But it's handy to be able to manage smaller jobs.

Completely agree. I don’t see anyone above saying £15 is too much for an LBS to do a tyre, only that it is one of the jobs you really need to learn to do yourself otherwise you will be forever returning to the bike shop every time one of your tyres has an issue.

 

[galaga187]

I spent a couple of evenings with a mate from here (@Wiltshire Warrior) and he's kindly shown me how to do it. There are some key steps and we had to adapt based on tyres (first set not compatible). We used a Stans kit which was probably overkill but I'd already bought it. I feel confident I can do my own now.

 

[highpeakrider]

I got one of these, great for all tires, cleaning etc.
Makes the job very easy and is handy having 2 cars.

This is a simple job to learn and a compressor makes it so much easier.

24 Litre Air Compressor - 9.6CFM, 2.5HP, 24L 5055462717848 | eBay

 

[Bongofish]

When I go tubeless do i have to get presta valves put in? I much prefer schwalbe (sp?) Valves. Any reason why most tyres come with presta!? I find the other valves so much easier to blow up ha.

 

[R120]

In my experience having a decent pump solves that issue - cheap pumps tend to be fiddlier to connect to a presta

 

[Wiltshire Warrior]

When I go tubeless do i have to get presta valves put in? I much prefer schwalbe (sp?) Valves. Any reason why most tyres come with presta!? I find the other valves so much easier to blow up ha.

Historically Presta Valves leak air less, are easier to deflate and I'm afraid all the valves I have used over the years for Tubeless were Presta thats:
Stans
Mavic
DT Swiss
Bontrager.

but if you want to go guerilla then try making a stans strip from a shrader valved inner tube, it will be a big fiddle but it might work.

 

[MattyB]

You could go Presta, but I'm not sure how easy it is to remove a valve core in order to add/top up the sealant once the bead is seated. That would definitely put me off going that route.