Servicing some wheels but have no clue .

[jackamo]

I've a pair of branded Raymon wheels off my Fullray 150e .
They've had to come out of retirement and need a service. Only I've no idea how they're ment to come apart.
I've tried to pull the end caps as that seems to be the only way as there's no notches for a spanner or Allen key l. But nope , even In a vice .
The only info I can find is the model number from the Raymon site .
DA210 F And DA210 R
These are boost front and rear .
Any help will be appreciated

 

[TrailSnake]

I also had a gasgas, and those hubs where rebranded fastace hubs. I scrapped the rear hub cause my lbs couldnt find spare parts for to service it

I kept the front wheel, still in service.

Fastace

www.fastace.com.tw

 

[jackamo]

I also had a gasgas, and those hubs where rebranded fastace hubs. I scrapped the rear hub cause my lbs couldnt find spare parts for to service it

I kept the front wheel, still in service.

Fastace

www.fastace.com.tw

Yes I found that but there's zero info on how to get the thing apart .
I'm wondering if they're pressfit, but you'd think you could pull them apart .

 

[Mikerb]

If they will not pull off they may be threaded ( despite having no hex etc) . Try using some mole grips with a piece of rubber or similar to protect them and provide grip.
if they are in fact just push fit end caps, rather than trying to pull them off, if they have a hole in them try levering them off using a piece of rod or screwdriver similar in diameter to the hole. Some DT Swiss endcaps can be swine to remove but that method works. Use minimal force but change position and lever a little in each location.

 

[Astro66]

I have found hubs can have all sorts of different ways to disassemble them. Maybe post photos of both sides of the hub, and we'll see something we've pulled apart before.

I remember a Shimano SLX hub I pulled apart, had a plastic dust seal, with a metal circlip built into it the back of it, that was almost impossible to see. Just two small gaps to get a tool into. And this dust seal was preventing the hub was coming apart. If it wasn't for a youtube video, I would have never worked it out. Without seeing the back of the dust seal, there was no way you'd know there was a circlip built in.

 

[jackamo]

If they will not pull off they may be threaded ( despite having no hex etc) . Try using some mole grips with a piece of rubber or similar to protect them and provide grip.
if they are in fact just push fit end caps, rather than trying to pull them off, if they have a hole in them try levering them off using a piece of rod or screwdriver similar in diameter to the hole. Some DT Swiss endcaps can be swine to remove but that method works. Use minimal force but change position and lever a little in each location.

There's no holes or slots.
I'll give the molegrips a try and turn them .

 

[jackamo]

There's no holes or slots.
I'll give the molegrips a try and turn them .

Tried molegrips and pipe wrench , nothing .
The axel caps dont even turn ether direction.
Now there is a groove between the axle cap and axle internally.
I might be able to get a puller inside but there's not a lot of room .

 

[Mikerb]

As above some photos may help to let folk on here give some ideas. I don't understand how the caps you refer to form part of the hub if they have no hole in them to allow a thru axle to pass through the hub!!

 

[jackamo]

This is the front hub.

 

[jackamo]

As above some photos may help to let folk on here give some ideas. I don't understand how the caps you refer to form part of the hub if they have no hole in them to allow a thru axle to pass through the hub!!

Photos left , as you can see the cap is flush with the axel and no visible way of removing them

 

[VWsurfbum]

If you put the axle in, just the tip and pop off the cones. I think the bearings will be press fit as normal.

 

[jackamo]

If you put the axle in, just the tip and pop off the cones. I think the bearings will be press fit as normal.

You seemed to missed the mulitle times I said the axel caps/cones don't come off

 

[RustyMTB]

Looks to me like the caps are retained by the outermost rolled sleeve. You can see a gap between that & the aluminium spacer in the axle. Next thing I'd try is a pick to pull the sleeve out & then I reckon the caps will slide off.

 

[jackamo]

Looks to me like the caps are retained by the outermost rolled sleeve. You can see a gap between that & the aluminium spacer in the axle. Next thing I'd try is a pick to pull the sleeve out & then I reckon the caps will slide off.

There's no aluminium spacer , that is the axel . It goes all the way through .
The caps are pressed on .
I've tried , pulling and turning both ways and they don't move.

 

[RustyMTB]

Maybe but nevertheless, the flanged sleeve & axle caps are clearly separate parts & the solution lies in removing the layers to work your way in. Getting the outer sleeve off is the key, don't under estimate the amount of force required.

 

[VWsurfbum]

You seemed to missed the mulitle times I said the axel caps/cones don't come off

Thats how you get the caps off

 

[Mikerb]

I believe @VWsurfbum is right....and you may be misunderstand the construction of a hub.....any hub. There is no axle in a hub!! Inside the hub casing there is a bearing towards each end. In your hub ( at least on the sides you photographed) there is a spacer between the end cap and the bearing...I assume the other side of the hub is the same. The thru axle then fits through the 2 bearings and spacers in order to mount the wheel to the bike drop outs.

The end cap is just the black plastic piece. Its sits up against the spacer where your photo shows a red colour...I assume that is in fact some sort of seal.

As I suggested previously and vwsurfbum has also suggested, it looks like you remove the end cap by inserting a rod similar diameter to the hole in the end cap and lever up and down. Given the end cap internally is only the black plastic up to the "red line"......probably 1cm in?.....you should only insert the rod that far. VWsurfbum suggested using the thru axle as that rod..........I would suggest finding something the same diameter if you can to avoid any risk of damaging the thru axle. The rod needs to be 12mm for the back wheel and 15mm for the front ( or risk using the thru axles).

 

[jackamo]

I believe @VWsurfbum is right....and you may be misunderstand the construction of a hub.....any hub. There is no axle in a hub!! Inside the hub casing there is a bearing towards each end. In your hub ( at least on the sides you photographed) there is a spacer between the end cap and the bearing...I assume the other side of the hub is the same. The thru axle then fits through the 2 bearings and spacers in order to mount the wheel to the bike drop outs.

The end cap is just the black plastic piece. Its sits up against the spacer where your photo shows a red colour...I assume that is in fact some sort of seal.

As I suggested previously and vwsurfbum has also suggested, it looks like you remove the end cap by inserting a rod similar diameter to the hole in the end cap and lever up and down. Given the end cap internally is only the black plastic up to the "red line"......probably 1cm in?.....you should only insert the rod that far. VWsurfbum suggested using the thru axle as that rod..........I would suggest finding something the same diameter if you can to avoid any risk of damaging the thru axle. The rod needs to be 12mm for the back wheel and 15mm for the front ( or risk using the thru axles).

Sorry but you couldn't be more wrong .
There is no plastic seal .
The axle cap is all one piece of aluminium.
The red ' seal ' is grease .
If you could see down inside there is one solid piece of aluminium tube ' axel sleeve'.
I have tried holding one side in a bence vice and mole grips to remove the axel caps with no joy, they didn't even turn independently of each other.
I'm waiting on a blind pulling tool with slide hammer to arrive and give that a try .

 

[Mikerb]

Ok so if what I referred to as a spacer is indeed a continuous sleeve going from end cap to end cap, consider how the sleeve plus end caps are assembled in the first place. The sleeve would be inserted and then each end cap attached. The grease you refer to is where the end cap finishes. So the way both myself and vwsurfbum described how to remove them is the most likely. They should not be difficult to lever off since they are mainly held in place by the wheel being clamped in the dropouts.

 

[jackamo]

Ok so if what I referred to as a spacer is indeed a continuous sleeve going from end cap to end cap, consider how the sleeve plus end caps are assembled in the first place. The sleeve would be inserted and then each end cap attached. The grease you refer to is where the end cap finishes. So the way both myself and vwsurfbum described how to remove them is the most likely. They should not be difficult to lever off since they are mainly held in place by the wheel being clamped in the dropouts.

You'd think but as I've explained.
The end caps , don't move independently of each other or the axle sleeve.
Every other wheel I've had , nukeproof , mavic ect the axle caps pull off by hand very easily .
These will not move while one is clamped in a bench vice and the other trying to be turned by me with molegrips , left or right .

 

[Who’s There]

One of these hubs just came on my Husky MC2, I figured it is likely a throw away hub once the bearings go. Looking at your pic because I haven’t closely looked at my hub yet I don’t see how the bearing could be as small as that adaptor so maybe(and I have never seen anything like it in all my years of motorcycles and bikes) both bearing could come out of the non disc side? Which doesn’t make engineering sense as it would have to have a sleeve to locate the outer race of the bearing against the disc side. I will look at my hub later today as I need to add sealant to the tire anyway.

BTW, Koozer hubs are cheap and look to be serviceable, they show all the individual part numbers. The standard rims on my Husky are nothing special so I will likely just build up a decent set of wheels and use the stock ones as backup.
On my other Husky which is a HC1 the retainers that hold the adapters into the hubs are too tight to just lever out, so possibly it will lead to destruction when attempted, and of course the rear bearing have developed some play. Right now they have been regulated to back up duties while I find out if the Koozer are reliable, built up a set with Chromag rims that were on sale.

Edit: Went out to garage and looked at my hubs, both sides have the same small flanges. So bearings must be small. My original HC1 hubs sound very dry… so I might have to take a chance to see what is required to access bearings.

 

[Mikerb]

Same!! I have never seen a hub with a continuous sleeve sitting between 2 end caps. I can only assume the sleeve rotates on a bearing each side, but as you say the bearings must be pretty small especially on the front wheel. I would still use the method I talked a bout to lever off at least one side end cap..............if that ends up wrecking anything then just as well at that point to get the wheel rebuilt using a decent hub.