running normal stem on a 23 orbea wild

[nobbyq]

anyone used the Orbea part that allows this , how does it affect the spin block thingy etc ? ive got carbon bars in 31.8 and don't fancy buying new for 150 quid as they only take 35mm on the stock wild stem

 

[markloch]

I haven’t but if you give it a go please report back

 

[Chiefworm]

I have done it, will post a close up pic tomorrow if you wanted. My frame is XL so the knock block is void anyway. Disconnecting brakes, dropper and gears is a faff but once done it’s done! Way better options than the horrific split standard spacers and mandatory stem!

 

[markloch]

Close ups would be great, thanks. I should be getting my bike in the next couple of days, we’ll see if I need some rise either bars or stem.

 

[Chiefworm]

Close ups would be great, thanks. I should be getting my bike in the next couple of days, we’ll see if I need some rise either bars or stem.

Pics attached…

 

[markloch]

Thanks. Looks pretty clean and presumably less a PITA that the stock puzzle set. Where’s the wire from the thumb switch?

Have you ever pulled a cable through downtube? My Urrun doesn’t a dropper; I’ve got one in hand to install, wondering if the space between the top of the battery and the downtube is adequate to pull an outer cable through (with the aid of a cable-pulling kit) and then up the seat tube. I read of complaints about cable rattle in the downtube so I’m thinking maybe there’s room. Or just bite the bullet and pull the motor and battery (as I’ve done several times on my Rail).

 

[Chiefworm]

Thanks. Looks pretty clean and presumably less a PITA that the stock puzzle set. Where’s the wire from the thumb switch?

Have you ever pulled a cable through downtube? My Urrun doesn’t a dropper; I’ve got one in hand to install, wondering if the space between the top of the battery and the downtube is adequate to pull an outer cable through (with the aid of a cable-pulling kit) and then up the seat tube. I read of complaints about cable rattle in the downtube so I’m thinking maybe there’s room. Or just bite the bullet and pull the motor and battery (as I’ve done several times on my Rail).

Far far less hassle than the dreadful split lunacy it comes with. The bike should come like this as standard. The remote is bluetooth so no cable. Dropper cable runs in the down tube but I have yet to replace one on the bike.. I have zero rattles, in fact it’s virtually silent!

 

[Rando_12345]

Hi, reviving the thread with some questions:

1) Has anyone bodged the original headset parts in order to use a standard stem?
Example with wild: - YouTube
More detailed example with similar Cannondale: Most likely requires grinding down one original spacer/top piece then adding a bunch of regular circular spacers, but I 100% can't be bothered to remove hoses/cables from brakes and controls in order to fit the dedicated part listed above.

2) Anyone know for if the Fox 38 perf on a size L frame in M10 spec will clear the downtube?
I have no issue doing this hack, but if I could save myself an hour of mucking about it would be great:

 

[BAh30]

What about using a 31.8 to 35mm shim?